Previously known as Lourenco Marques, Maputo, Mozambique's economic, political and cultural capital, was hit hard by the war. Although no fighting occurred there, the city was overwhelmed by neglect. Before the war, Maputo had graceful, tree-lined streets, cafes, a good variety of restaurants, some nightlife and the colorful Central Market. Today, the city remains swollen with refugees and crumbling from a lack of resources to rebuild it. Nevertheless, there has been some progress in putting the...