Caribbean editor Gay Nagle Myers visited Belize for the first
time in November. It will not be her last. Her report follows:
SAN PEDRO, Belize -- Pavel, my "houseman," was young enough to
be my son, but he cut an imposing figure in his pith helmet,
creased khaki shorts and starched blue shirt.
His back was ramrod straight as he carried my lunch tray aloft
in one hand while the other dragged my battered carry-on over the
wooden walkways from the dock to Casa Manana, my villa for the
night.
I'd come to Cayo Espanto, a villa resort on a private island, by
boat from San Pedro, the hub of activity on Ambergris Caye, which
is a 20-minute flight from Belize City.
San Pedro's hard-packed sand roads were crowded with golf carts
(the rental vehicle of choice); small, colorful hotels; and
beer-drinking visitors sunburned from snorkeling and fishing.
I left all that behind when German Alamilla, the resort's
official marine guide, welcomed me aboard Cayo's skiff for the
10-minute trip.
He radioed ahead my drink order, which was handed to me, along
with an iced towel, when we pulled up to the dock.
A 'Salty' welcome
A reception line of amiable staff members, general managers
Pamela Berry-Brouchier and Jacques Brouchier and Salty, the
resort's Labrador mascot, was there to greet me.
Pavel showed me to my villa, an airy, spacious one-bedroom retreat
with its own private dock, an outdoor garden shower, retractable
shutter walls that opened on three sides to water views and a king
bed, positioned in the center of the room to catch the wraparound
views.
After serving me lunch on the villa's veranda next to the plunge
pool, Pavel slipped away discreetly, leaving behind a walkie-talkie
device so I could reach him if needed.
Because the five villas are self-contained -- and because there
is no restaurant or public gathering spot at the resort -- it's
possible to stay at Cayo Espanto and not connect with another guest
during your stay.
Privacy rules
The Brouchiers, recently arrived from a hotel stint in Bora-Bora
and, before that, at Biras Creek in the British Virgin Islands,
told me that guests treasure the solitude and privacy.
"When they leave, they're reluctant to go. Cayo is a place to
recharge, relax and regroup," Pamela said. "We give our guests as
much of that as they want, but activities are available anytime
they want them."
Activities include massage therapies, fitness equipment, picnic
excursions to nearby deserted islands, reef fishing, kayaking and a
boat trip to Hol Chan Marine Reserve, an underwater national park.
Off-island expeditions into the jungles or the Mayan ruins can be
arranged.
There's even golf on nearby Caye Chapel, a seven-minute flight
or short boat ride from the resort. The 18-hole course is
completely surrounded by water with views of the reef from the
greens and clubhouse. A round of golf costs $225 per person.
Personalized menus
In late afternoon, the chef dropped by to consult with me on the
dinner menu. Consult is a misnomer -- I heard the word "caviar" and
told him I wanted whatever he selected.
Australian Simon Capewell, the chef, recently arrived at Cayo
from Altamer Villa & Restaurant on Anguilla, where he served as
executive sous chef.
Preference surveys, filled out by guests before they arrive,
help Capewell create personalized menus.
While we "consulted," Pavel transformed my dock into an outdoor
dining salon, complete with a table draped in white linen with
crystal, china and candles. All that was missing was my
husband.
Cayo Espanto was created three years ago by owners Jeff and
Susan Gram, who bought the island to create "a five-star vacation
experience close to home," Jeff said.
"We're counting on travel agents to understand the degree of
excellence that Cayo Espanto offers. Our guests expect the best and
our commitment to service is incomparable," he said.
Commission is 10%.
The owners said they may add a small pool and bar area for
guests who wish to congregate over a swim and a drink.
My fantasy-turned-reality experience was short-lived, and after
breakfast the next morning, a good-bye pat to Salty and a sendoff
by the staff, I returned to San Pedro for my Maya Island Air flight
south.
Reef and jungle
What a country of contrasts. Several landing strips later, I
touched down at an airstrip literally carved from the jungle. The
"terminal" was an open-air, thatched-roof lean-to, and I was the
only arrival.
Kanantik Reef & Jungle Resort opened in May after a
five-year, $5 million construction that began with men with
machetes hacking through untouched foliage and forest to clear the
site, barging in tons of sand to create a beach and laying roads to
transport building materials.
Protecting the environment while creating Kanantik was the goal
of Roberto Fabbri, managing director.
The resort's name is a Maya Mopan word that means "to take
care."
In your dreams
"We try to offer our guests what they dream about as a tropical
paradise," Fabbri said.
He succeeded.
The 25 conical-shaped, thatched-roof cabanas -- the special palm
fronds for each roof came from Belize's interior and were
intricately woven by the same Belizeans who cleared the land -- are
spacious, air-conditioned and furnished with Mayan crafts and
canopied beds draped with mosquito netting.
The shower floors are smooth stones collected from nearby rivers
and creeks.
The restaurant, bar and arrival center also have the
thatched-roof design. A pool, a 1,300-foot-long beach, loads of
hammocks and lounge chairs round out the amenities.
Fabbri, in a nod to his Italian heritage, imported state-of-the
art machines for espresso and ice cream as well as a stone-walled
pizza oven.
Rare sightings
The excursion offerings (included in the daily rate of $300 per
person, double, commissionable at 10%) are where Kanantik stands
out.
Tour guides Sippy and Florenza lead hikes into the Cockscombe
Basin Jaguar Preserve.
I didn't see a jaguar (most don't), but I did have a refreshing
swim at a waterfall two miles up the trail.
Other trips include manatee sightings at Sapodilla Lagoon,
reached by kayak from Kanantik; river canoeing; cave tubing;
horseback riding; and visits to magnificent Mayan ruins.
Two observation towers overlooking waterholes within walking
distance of Kanantik are perfect for bird-watching and crocodile
spottings.
Water sports include reef dives for certified divers,
snorkeling, deep-sea and bone fishing, sailing and sea
kayaking.
The inclusive rate covers everything except imported liquors,
wine and motorized fishing activities.
Agents welcome
Fabbri said the bulk of bookings come via the Internet. More
than 90% of his guests are from the U.S.
"I want agent involvement in this resort because I want guests
to experience the culture of Belize," he said.
Fabbri frequently brings this culture to his guests. The
Garifuna, an ethnic group of West African and Carib-Indian
ancestry, perform song and dance every Friday.
Room key: Cayo Espanto
Address: Box 90, San Pedro, Belize
Phone: (888) 666-4282 or (011) 501 26-2473
Fax: (910) 323-4272
Web:www.aprivateisland.com
E-mail:[email protected]
General managers: Pamela Berry-Brouchier and
Jacques Brouchier
Sample inclusive rates: From $895 to $1,550 per
night, double, Jan. 8 through Dec. 15, 2003. Not included: 21.5%
tax and service charges, wine, champagne and cordials.
Location: A private three-acre island, 10 minutes
by boat from San Pedro on Ambergris Caye.
Number of rooms: Five villas, (three one-bedroom
and two two-bedroom units) with a maximum capacity of 14
guests.
Noteworthy: A personal butler, garden showers,
Celadon toiletries, a CD and satellite TV/VCR in the living area,
no telephones, eclectic menu and boat excursions.
Not Worthy: Be sure you click with your traveling
companion -- the seclusion and privacy can be pretty intense.
• • •
Room key: Kanantik Reef & Jungle Resort
Address: Box 1482, Belize City, Belize
Phone: (800) 965-9689 or (011) 501 6-12048
Fax: (011) 501 6-12089
Web:www.kanantik.com
E-mail:[email protected]
Managing director: Roberto Fabbri
Sample inclusive rates: $300 per person, per day,
double, year-round, excluding wine and motorized fishing
activities.
Location: Oceanfront resort carved out of the
jungle between Dangriga to the north and Placencia to the
south.
Number of rooms: 25 thatched-roof, air-conditioned
beachfront units.
Noteworthy: Fascinating excursions on the water
and in the jungle are included in the daily rate. Great
bird-watching and crocodile-spotting from two observation towers
that overlook waterholes near the resort. Welcoming staff, Internet
access and environmentally friendly set-up.
Not Worthy: Beware of scorpions -- wear sandals
and shake out clothing before packing to go home. Dining room needs
better ventilation to catch the breezes.