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Accommodations range from first-class beach resorts down to simple "beach fales" (thatched-roof huts, many with no walls). You'll also find small inns, local hotels and hostels. This is the tropics, so it's not uncommon to find bugs and spiders even in the nicest accommodations. The properties are usually fairly clean and adequately run. Local tour operators can arrange village stays.Read More ...

The top large hotel is Aggie Grey's Lagoon, Beach Resort & Spa, a 140-room property that opened in 2005 near Faleolo International Airport on Upolu's northwestern corner. Smaller and more intimate are Sinalei Reef Resort & Spa and the American-owned Coconuts Beach Club, within shouting distance of each other on Upolu's south coast. Coconuts Beach Club has Samoa's only over-water bungalows.

Even if you're not staying in Aggie Grey's Hotel & Bungalows on Beach Road in Apia, stop by to look around. It's one of the most interesting hotels in the South Pacific, with its pseudo-colonial architecture, large Samoan fale shading the main restaurant and a coconut palm growing from an island in the middle of the swimming pool. (Aggie Grey, who died in 1988, used to swap stories with James Michener, Gary Cooper, Marlon Brando and other famous guests, for whom she named many of her rooms.) Apia's other main hotel, the Kitano Tusitala, has traditional-style buildings. The less-convenient Hotel Insel Fehmarn is a modern business motel with good facilities and a view from its hillside perch.< Show Less

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