This is a tale of two cities. Or, to be more precise, a tale of four upscale hotels in two South African cities, recorded on a recent trek across the country.
While South Africa's stunning landscapes and amazing wildlife are usually the big draws for U.S. visitors, leisure travelers usually also incorporate an urban component in Johannesburg or Cape Town, or both, to their stays.
My visit was no different, with overnight stays at the Protea Fire & Ice Hotel Melrose Arch and Saxon Boutique Hotel, Villas and Spa in "Jozi" -- as Johannesburg is affectionately called by locals -- sandwiching four nights in Cape Town, evenly split between Cape Grace and the One&Only Cape Town.
Contemporary and 'edgy'
"Urban, contemporary and edgy" is how the four-star, 197-room Protea Fire & Ice Hotel markets itself. Given its secure setting in the newly developed, very manicured Melrose Arch suburb of Johannesburg, I wasn't convinced of the hotel's urbanity or edginess, but it certainly was contemporary.
Public spaces and my roomy accommodations were decorated in a mix of modern and neo-rococo furniture; blown-up photographs of Hollywood legends; and wall and floor coverings that alternated between crazy-quilt patterns and simple grays, blacks and whites.
My Standard King room offered all the expected mod cons, including a flat-screen LCD TV, WiFi, a tea/coffeemaker and a laptop-friendly safe.
Both dinner and breakfast at the hotel's sumptuously decorated yet still somewhat informal restaurant -- noted for its burgers and shakes -- were scrumptious, and service throughout the hotel was friendly and warm.
Current rates for Standard King rooms start at about $255 per night. See www.proteahotels.com.
Grace on the Cape
After my South African Express flight alighted at Cape Town International, I was collected at the baggage claim by Edward, one of the chauffeurs that Cape Grace sends to retrieve guests.
Edward regaled me with interesting historical factoids as we drove into town, breathtaking Table Mountain growing ever larger in the windshield.
I'd barely gotten my breath back when it was taken away again upon arrival at stunning Cape Grace, a cozy, 120-unit boutique property on the city's Victoria & Alfred Waterfront. Outfitted in a style I can best describe as nautical-cum-English country house, the hotel, which sits on its own private harbor quay, manages to be at once impressive and intimate as well as inviting. It was clear, too, that I'd now moved into five-star territory.
After checking in at one of two huge lobby desks that serve as reception, I headed up to my Rooftop Terrace room, which boasted a spacious private balcony with views of the marina below and Table Mountain above. Furnishings were plush and lush, and, like all units at Cape Grace, my 376-square-foot room featured a separate marble bath, shower and toilet along with a dressing area; technological amenities such as an iPod docking station, swiveling flat-screen TV and free WiFi; and unexpected niceties not always found in hotels outside North America, such as an iron and ironing board.
Dinner at the hotel's Signal Restaurant, serving locally sourced "Cape cuisine" mixing African, European and Asian influences, struck me as both refined and tasty.
Rack rates through Dec. 31, 2012, at Cape Grace start at about $575 per night, including breakfast, spa access, chauffeured transfers, a wine tasting and morning tea/coffee wake-up calls. Visit www.capegrace.com.
Sleek and satisfying
Checking out of Cape Grace, I headed a short distance across the waterfront to the 131-room One&Only Cape Town. If Cape Grace is a plush armchair of a hotel, then the One&Only is a sleek, Danish modern settee. Its expansive, coolly contemporary spaces are matched by equally up-to-date amenities, facilities and services. Forty units are located, with the hotel spa, on an island at the center of the complex; the remainder occupy the larger Marina Rise building.
My expansive Marina Mountain King accommodations measured 678 square feet; I truly felt spoiled for space. The unit boasted, like all One&Only rooms and suites, a private terrace with views of Table Mountain.
Other highlights included a 42-inch, flat-screen TV; DVD/CD player; iPod docking station; Nespresso machine; pillow and scent menus; and a bathroom with rainfall showerhead and private "water closet."
The room was so luxurious I was hard-pressed to exit it but eventually tore myself away to sample the One&Only's spa and dining experiences. I enjoyed a sports massage at the island spa, billed as Cape Town's largest, before a light and early dinner at Reuben's, one of three restaurants on site (poolside eatery Isola and an outlet of Nobu are the other two).
Balancing sophistication and informality, Reuben's features cuisine by South African chef Reuben Riffel. I restricted myself to a soothing French onion soup and a palate-pleasing entree of pumpkin tortellini and came away completely satiated.
Rates, inclusive of breakfast and spa/gym access, currently can be had from about $625. See http://capetown.oneandonlyresorts.com.
Johannesburg ne plus ultra
I rounded out my South Africa stay back in Johannesburg, with a night at the legendary Saxon, in the city's tony Sandhurst suburb. Although it's marketed as a boutique property, the Saxon regally emits the feel of a grande dame of world hostelry.
After check-in in the shadow of the lobby's sweeping, showcase staircase, I was escorted to my ground-level Presidential Suite, where I was "briefed," to put it mildly, on a huge menu of amenities and services by my private butler. These included not only all the standard five-star bells and whistles but also welcome surprises such as an open minibar and what I reckoned was the most comfortable hotel bed I've ever slept in.
Although time was short (I checked in late and had an early airport transfer the next morning), I did make sure to sample the on-site cuisine with a late-night snack of tomato soup and a chicken panino on the outdoor terrace. A kingly breakfast was served by my butler early the next morning in my suite. Had I had more time, I would have made sure to experience the Saxon's latest dining addition, a six-person chef's table in the kitchen of the main restaurant.
Nightly rates at the Saxon start from about $900, including breakfast. Go to www.saxon.co.za.
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