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Dispatch, Syria 1: Feeling welcome

October 12, 2009

JCSYRIA162x120Travel Weekly's Jeri Clausing is on a press trip to Syria. Her first dispatch follows.

"You are welcome."

The first time a Damascus shopkeeper said that to me I paused, knowing I hadn’t thanked him for anything. Then I remembered he had asked me where I was from. When I said America, he said, "You are welcome."

It was a phrase I heard repeatedly as I wandered old Damascus, and it seemed sincere.

It’s not that I didn’t expect to feel welcome. I had in fact read about how friendly the Syrians are. But I never know what to expect when traveling – especially in the Middle East.

And I was especially unsure how we would be received as part of the first official delegation of North American journalists invited to Syria’s Silk Road Festival. Old DamascusIt’s an annual event where the country sponsors travel writers to celebrate its role along the historical trade route.

Because of tensions between the U.S. and Syria, North Americans have never been invited to the event, which has been held for about eight years.

Since President Obama took office, efforts have been made to improve relations with Syria, but trade sanctions imposed by the Bush administration remain.

One of our first official stops was a press conference with Deputy Prime Minister Abdullah Dardari.

"This is one of the countries where the difference between the perception and the reality is very stark," Dardari told the 200 journalists from around the world. "We would love to see Americans coming to Syria and seeing the country and going home to tell more people about it."

There are many things Americans don’t know about Syria, he said.

"For example, do Americans really know that Syria is the cradle of Christianity?" he asked? "Do they know what it means to be on the road to Damascus? Do they know they can actually go see the road to Damascus and walk on it?"

Umayyad MosqueIndeed, the history is this country is astounding. From the mountain where the Biblical Cain killed his brother Abel to Roman ruins and the temple-turned-church-turned-mosque where the head of John the Baptist is preserved, there is no shortage of historical sights.

After our press conference at the ministry we spent the afternoon wandering the streets of Old Damascus, eating lunch at restaurant tucked in a maze of winding alleys and shopping in the souks.

The city reminded me a bit of Cairo, although a bit less crowded and a little cleaner. It also feels quite safe, although like any big city there is crime. One of the members of our group had her wallet taken from her purse.

Later that day, however, when another woman got separated from the group, two young men helped her find a cab then escorted her back to the hotel. The cab driver refused her money, proving that at least in some Syrians' eyes, Americans truly are welcome.

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#5October 20, 2009
Great piece Jeri! You have written up about some great memories, good and bad. It's wonderful to get your insight. If nothing else, it sounds like Syria is a fascinating place to visit. --Sheila
#4October 13, 2009
I love this story! I have fond memories of roaming the souk near Omayad Square, the beautiful mosque and most especially the hospitality of the Syrian people. How refreshing to read an intelligent and complementary editorial on this very special part of the world. I was in Palestine earlier this year during the war in the Gaza and even then heard 'you are welcome' everywhere I went. I wish more Americans understood how hospitality is a basic tenant of Islam and very much part of the cultural DNA of Middle Eastern people. Thank you for this lovely story.
#3October 13, 2009
Good to hear that maybe someday Syria will truely be a good place to visit! I would love to see it. Thanks for sharing.
#2October 13, 2009
I was in Syria in August and also was impressed with their welcoming attitude. Similar to the Lebanese, who I also found incredibly welcoming. Syria is definitely on the edge of renewal. A Four Seasons opened a couple of years ago, there is a vibrant art scene, modern cuisine restaurants have become more common, and the government has loosed up controls for private business. As political relations with the U.S. warm (and US delegations have been back and forth), it is expected that tourism will start on a major growth curve. -- jim sherman
#1October 13, 2009
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