If you know me in real life, you probably never want to hear me say the word "camel" again.
The promise of riding a camel during my Abercrombie & Kent trip, a shortened version of the tour operator's Small Jet Journey tour of Spain and Morocco, has been at the forefront of my mind since I read the itinerary. There would be a camel ride to our luxury desert camp in the Moroccan Sahara. And I had been looking forward to it even more than the private jet experience or luxury hotels.
So, when the camel caravan came into view after a two-hour ride, I didn't even try to fight my excitement. Here I was in the middle of the Sahara Desert on a luxury trip -- customers pay nearly $48,000 for an 11-day journey through Spain and Morocco via private jet -- and I was giddy about the chance to climb onto a camel's back and ride it to camp.
Abercromobie & Kent guests riding camels in the Sahara. Photo Credit: Brinley Hineman
Though the ride was bumpy and slightly nerve-wracking, it didn't disappoint. It only enhanced the experience.
Situated some six feet above the ground, surrounded by sand dunes, the 30-minute ride was mesmerizing. We were traveling to A&K's private desert camp, where we would spend one night in the Sahara, under a magnificent night sky filled with twinkling stars and seemingly a world away from civilization.
The remote feeling is by design. A&K doesn't have a permanent camp in the Sahara and instead breaks it down and moves it between each booking. That way, the luxury tour operator never needs to worry about overcrowding or anyone encroaching upon the experience.
We were totally alone, aside from our tour director, camp employees and a momentary glimpse of a few ATV riders hitting the dunes -- our director, Mohamed, said that was not typical.
Despite my excitement to ride a camel, I must admit I had slight trepidation. Just last year, I reported on tour operators moving away from camel rides in Egypt due to the reported mistreatment of the pack animals. Reporting on that story opened my eyes to animal tourism and the ways some operators do -- or do not -- champion animal wellness.
Brinley Hineman enjoying a Sahara sunset at Abercrombie & Kent's luxury desert camp. Source: Brinley Hineman
And though using a camel as transportation in the Sahara is a very different experience than posing with one for a quick photo in front of the Egyptian pyramids (typically, tour operators are comfortable with using the pack animal for transportation purposes rather than just photo ops), I was still sensitive to it, wanting to ensure I was being an ethical tourist.
At the end of our trip, we dined in Marrakech with Jean-Bernard Coudon, the director for A&K's Morocco operations. I asked him how the operator ensured the camels were adequately cared for and their treatment met A&K's standards. (A&K ceased camel rides in front of the pyramids upon learning of a PETA investigation into the animals' treatment.)
He said the pack of camels that A&K guests ride into the Sahara is owned by a camp staff member's family and live in the desert nearby, meaning we were experiencing them in their natural habitat. And, he said, A&K only pays for the experience of riding healthy and well-maintained camels, meaning there's a financial incentive for the owners to ensure that they are adequately cared for.
Glamping, and then some
A&K takes glamping to a whole new level. Upon learning that the camp wasn't permanent, I wondered what to expect but felt confident it would exceed expectations given A&K's reputation.
But even after experiencing it, I still don't understand how the workers pulled off such a feat. One camp worker told me it takes up to 3 hours to assemble just one tent. We had eight, plus our dining venue, lounge space and employee lodging.
The inside of a tent at Abercrombie & Kent's luxury desert camp in the Sahara. Photo Credit: Brinley Hineman
And we had the creature comforts we've grown accustomed to back home: electricity, hot water and a flushable toilet. We even had a heated blanket warming our beds when we climbed in after an evening of stargazing in the chilly desert.
The experience mirrored that of the traditional itinerary: guests stay just one night in the desert, as our group did, and have a private staff providing snacks, turndown service, dinner and a sunrise breakfast.
The design is traditional Moroccan, with our tents and lounge space filled with poufs and layered, colorful rugs, piquing our excitement for our forthcoming visit to the local souk in Marrakech. (Half our group couldn't resist the temptation of buying the ultimate souvenir: a handmade rug.)
We enjoyed watching the sun dip behind the dunes while sipping wine and snacking, gabbing away as the sky grew darker and the stars twinkled above us. Eventually, the sound of live music beckoned us back to camp, where a feast awaited us, and traditional musicians impressed with their skills. Under the night sky, we danced around the fire, feeling the coolness of the Sahara surrounding us.
Abercrombie & Kent's luxury desert camp in the Sahara had an outdoor lounge area and dining tent. Photo Credit: Brinley Hineman
At the break of dawn, we were greeted with coffee as we watched the sunrise colors dance against the dunes, hues of red and pink illuminating the sand's waves and squiggles.
Caffeinated and enlivened by our experience in the desert, we headed to Marrakech, the camp disappearing like a mirage in the rearview mirror of our vehicles.