GOTHENBURG, Sweden -- I don't eat fish, and I don't drink.
So what was I doing on a culinary tour of this southwest Swedish
port city, dining in some of Scandinavia's top seafood restaurants,
where guests are plied with house vodka, wine or aquavit?
I couldn't turn down the chance to visit the country's
often-overlooked second city. So in between bouts of reindeer
steaks and the like, I trolled Gothenburg's scenic byways.
A fan of Scandinavian design, I armed myself with the
Designguide 2003 pamphlet for the town, which lists 22 shops,
museums and hotels that best exhibit the Swedish design
My favorite was Kronhusbodarna, a complex that houses the
workshops of such artisans as silversmith Hakan Kuhlin I found the
best way to explore Gothenburg was by sea. A tour of the city's
canals, harbor and shipyards on a Paddan Sightseeing boat was not
only edifying but fun, as we had to crouch down on the floor of the
vessel to squeeze under several low bridges.
Later, my tour group visited the East India Man, a
reconstruction of a 17th century ship that once sailed Asian trade
But the best seagoing experience I had here was a day trip by
ferry to the city's southern archipelago, a collection of tiny
islands that serve as quick weekend getaway spots. On Styrso, I had
lunch at quaint pension Styrso Skaret, and a leisurely stroll along
P.S.: I did break down and sample some fish dishes after
So hats off to world-class restaurants Sjomagasinet, Fond, Herr
Dahls, Gabriels Fisk och Skaldjursbar, Swea Hof, Restaurant Plus
and Styrso Skaret.They almost made a believer of this fishphobe.
Seafood fans, I'm sure, will find Gothenburg's dining scene a