Like many destinations in transition, Kiev, capital of Ukraine, is a city best not judged on first impressions. The wait to clear passport control is bewilderingly long, grim-faced officials are unclear on the concept of making visitors feel welcome and the airport is located on a singularly unlovely piece of real estate.
Halfway to the city, however, all that changes. Forests spring up, and onion-domed churches and enormous statues begin to appear at every turn.
During my recent visit, any last reservations fell away as we approached our destination, the new InterContinental Kiev. The hotel is located in city center amid a cluster of beautiful, brightly colored churches, and within a block or two of shops and restaurants.
Because our visit took place during the height of the H1N1 flu outbreak in Ukraine, the streets were a bit quieter than usual, we were told, but the overall ambience was still lively and inviting.
Despite being newly built and offering some modern touches, the 11-story, glass-and-marble InterContinental Kiev fits right in amid the historical architecture of what is essentially Kiev's most ancient district. The area dates back 1,500 years, to the city's reign as capital of the Kievan Rus state.
The hotel concierge is proactive about contacting guests before arrival with suggestions on things to do and a link to a video at www.intercontinentalvideo.com that offers details on navigating Kiev.
Guests can also take advantage of a menu of Insider Experiences packages that can range from shopping and cooking with the executive chef and private boat tours along the Dnieper River to guided tours of the city's churches or even tickets to the opera.
One caution: While tourists are certainly welcome in the city, English is not widely spoken, and signage, even on maps, is in the Cyrillic alphabet. Sightseeing with a bilingual guide is strongly recommended.
Checking Kiev
While it seems hard to envision that a city could have three cathedrals of the same denomination within a few blocks of each other, such is the case with the area around the InterContinental Kiev. St. Michael's Cathedral, St. Andrew's Cathedral and the Cathedral of St. Sophia all seem to be in competition with each other with their glorious golden domes.
But not all of Kiev's churches are housed in magnificent structures, the most famous case in point being Pecherska Lavra, or "cave monastery," on a promontory overlooking the Dnieper River.
Part museum, part church, the site is a highlight of any visit to Kiev, but visitors, especially women, should dress appropriately. Long skirts, long sleeves and head coverings are required.
Entrants are given a candle to light their way along whitewashed corridors, which are punctuated by glass coffins housing relics of early monks. Not for the claustrophobic, the tour is a fascinating glimpse into the lives of a people for whom religious expression was forbidden for so long. The upper part of the monastery offers a lovely bell tower, a museum of Ukrainian art, and several churches and historical buildings.
One of the most arresting of Kiev's sites, and my hands-down favorite, is the huge and dramatic Motherland Statue, which stands about 330 feet high and overlooks the city. The fierce-looking, Soviet-era statue is part of a complex that also includes several smaller clusters of militaristic statues, tanks, airplanes and other weaponry.
Culinary tour de force
Between tours, we discovered quickly that much of Kiev's dining experience includes a fair amount of drinking. As you would expect, vodka is big here, although the country does produce dry and sparkling wines and beers.
We kicked off our exploration of the culinary scene at the InterContinental Kiev's ultramodern b-Hush lounge, where the floor-to-ceiling windows and terraces offer panoramic views and caviar abounds.
We found out that when entering local restaurants, patrons are given a shot of vodka along with a pickle and a disc of dark bread slathered with garlic-infused lard.
Local specialties include borscht and the ubiquitous varenyky, a kind of dumpling that can be stuffed with savory or sweet fillings. Potato pancakes, crepes slathered with caviar and cream, and chicken Kiev rounded out the menu items we saw most frequently -- all good, hearty and cheap.
A favorite restaurant, Spotykach, on Volodymyrska Street, is a kitschy homage to the Soviet era, complete with wait staff in dirndl skirts, communist memorabilia and old, black-and-white comedies on vintage TVs. The menu offered Soviet-style fare, which didn't seem all that different from Ukrainian specialties sampled elsewhere.
For a more authentic Ukrainian experience, we dined at Shynok on Lesi Ukrainki Boulevard, which employs a costumed vodka man with a holster filled with different flavors. It also features singers who serenade diners, encouraging them to dance between courses.
For continental fare, we dined at Comme Il Faut, a Paris-inspired restaurant at the InterContinental Kiev, which serves upscale cuisine such as fresh lobster and tournedos of beef as well as less formal fare.
For high-end shopping, wander over to Khreshchatyk or Volodymyrska streets, where high-end designer chains are plentiful. For a more authentic experience, street markets are a common sight in Kiev. If a Soviet-style fur hat with a red star or Ukrainian handicrafts are on your wish list, you are in luck. Foodies should head to Bessarabsky Market, jammed with colorful stalls selling caviar, pickles, fruit, flowers and -- you guessed it -- vodka.
For more on the InterContinental Kiev, visit www.ichotelsgroup.com/intercontinental/en/gb/locations/kiev. For more on the city, visit http://kievukraine.info.