DUBAI CITY --
Dubai's era of superlatives commenced with the appearance of the
luxurious, sail-shaped Burj Al Arab, the tallest hotel in the world
when it opened in December 1999.
Seven years
later, Dubai continues to target the uppermost position on every
imaginable Top 10 list.
It is erecting what will not
only be the world's tallest building but one that is designed never
to be surpassed: Additional stories can be added to the Burj Dubai,
should plans for something higher be announced.
The superlatives
are mounting. The emirate is home to the world's richest horse
racing purse. The developers of a theme park, Dubailand, claim it
will be twice the size of all existing Disney parks put together.
The first Tiger Woods-designed golf course will be nearby. Dubai
International Airport's duty-free shops currently tally only the
second-highest sales receipts in the world, but the airport
authority plans to remedy that, as well as other problems, when
passenger capacity triples later this year.
Man-made islands
shaped like palm trees and an artificial archipelago that resembles
a map of the world are being created offshore. When all the
projects along Dubai's coastline are complete, they will increase
the length of Dubai's 40-mile natural shoreline by a factor of 41.
A six-mile strip of theme hotels that intends to best Las Vegas'
offerings has been mapped out; at night, giant illuminated 3-D
billboards mark their sites along a road in an otherwise empty
desert.
Just as the Burj
Al Arab was happy to embrace a review that gave it seven stars out
of a possible five, Dubai has welcomed the unofficial pronouncement
that it is the eighth wonder of the world.
Before the era of
superlatives began, there were no compelling reasons for foreigners
to visit Dubai unless they were involved in shipping or related
commerce (Dubai's port is the largest between Singapore and
Rotterdam).
If visitors at that time
employed hyperbole to describe the place, they were likely talking
about the weather in summer, when temperatures hover near 115
degrees and humidity is dependably above 90%.
The audacity and
marketing genius of Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum, the
ruler of Dubai and vice president and prime minister of the United
Arab Emirates, changed all that.
Sheikh Mohammed
had a strong motivation to carve out a special niche for Dubai. It
is a common misbelief that Dubai's current development spree is
fueled by, and supplemental to, oil revenue. While it's true that
the U.A.E. holds 9.5% of the world's proven oil reserves, Dubai's
neighboring emirate, Abu Dhabi, controls 92% of that pool.
Petrodollars account for only about 3% of Dubai's gross domestic
product, and it's estimated that the wells will be dry in 15 to 20
years.
Sheik Mohammad is
credited with conceptualizing Dubai as an extraordinary tourist
destination within his grander design to make it the most important
city between Europe and points east in Asia. It becomes clear, when
speaking with corporate executives and government officials, that
public and private sectors alike are encouraged to work
cooperatively toward the common goal of elevating Dubai's brand
value.
"In most
countries, companies operate in silos and bicker," said Bill
Walshe, who holds the title of chief marketing and business
innovation officer of Jumeirah Group, the hotel-development arm of
government-owned Dubai Holdings. "But here, we're like the
musketeers: all for one and one for all. We get together and try to
find the place where we all can get something out of a project. But
the one that gets the most is 'destination Dubai.' "
In conceiving
Dubai as a center of tourism, Sheik Mohammed was not deterred by
its paucity of tourism's elemental components: physical beauty,
cultural attractions, striking coastline or fabulous shopping. He
apparently learned how to think outside the box and think big --
at the knee of his father, Rashid bin Saeed Al Maktoum. Sheikh
Rashid created modern Dubai when he built a large, state-of-the-art
port facility in an emirate then known primarily as a transshipment
point for dhows, the small, rickety wooden vessels that can still
be seen loading tax-free goods along the "Creek" of central Dubai
and heading out each evening to the Arabian Gulf, en route to
markets ranging from Iran and Sri Lanka to Mombasa,
Kenya.
To compete for
global market share in tourism, Sheik Mohammed, like his father
before him, built supply in order to create demand. And in doing
so, he has transformed Dubai, once a backwater sitting on the
fringes of a region associated with political instability, into a
destination so fascinating that people fly from around the world
simply to see and experience it.
Where are the Americans?
If this
something-from-nothing tale sounds a little like Las Vegas' story,
or even Orlando's, there's one notable difference: In Dubai,
Americans are conspicuous only by their absence.
This is
particularly surprising because Dubai's culture of
materialism-on-display, outsized -- outlandish, even -- ambition,
exuberant optimism and flamboyant architecture feels at times to be
an exaggerated reflection of American ethos.
It begs the
question: How important is the American market to Dubai?
Khalid A bin
Sulayem, director general of the Department of Tourism and Commerce
Marketing, is the de facto minister of tourism in Dubai, and he has
guided tourism development since 1993, steadily raising its
contribution to Dubai's economy to 20% of its GDP. He readily
conceded that America is not currently a major feeder market. Other
Gulf states, the British and Germans, and even Japan, outpace the
U.S. when it comes to inbound traffic.
"America is a big
market, so even a small share is good," he added brightly. "But we
have to prioritize our marketing efforts."
Of the 9 million
visitors to Dubai last year, a little more than 350,000 were
Americans, up 40% from 2005, he said. He credits the three direct
flights daily from New York on Emirates Airlines for having played
a significant role in increasing traffic, but he adds that "our
first priority for the U.S. is commerce. As regards U.S. travelers,
we're concentrating on the MICE [meetings, incentives, conventions
and exhibitions] markets for the most part.
"Those people
have a reason to come," he said. "The leisure traveler? No
way."
But why not? With
its 40 shopping malls, fabulous hotels, high-tech water park,
indoor ski slope and gracious people, there's plenty to attract
leisure travelers of any nationality. Dubai is even
family-friendly. In February, the Madinat Jumeirah hotel complex
and Jumeirah Beach Hotel were filled with British schoolchildren on
their midterm break.
To get to the
heart of the matter of why American leisure travelers are not a
priority, Sulayem fired up his laptop and said he wanted to show me
something he had downloaded from YouTube. With a few clicks, he
launched a video from a fake news program in which an Australian
comedian, a la Jay Leno, does man-on-the-street interviews with
Americans in order to reveal their geographic and political
ignorance. (In answer to the question "Can you name a country that
begins with the letter 'U'?," none of the dozen or so respondents
were able to come up with any answer, let alone United States of
America.)
"Americans don't
know anything about Dubai," Sulayem said, putting away the laptop.
"We work well with the big players in the U.S. We're reaching out
to travel agents, conference organizers and cruise lines. But the
U.S. is a challenge. We cannot deny that. And we have to adjust our
criteria for each market or we'll be wasting our money."
Among the factors
that bring the U.S. down on the priority list is distance ("The
U.S. is becoming more important, but we understand how far away it
is") and the knowledge that Dubai's location in the Middle East is
going to spook a lot of Americans ("Though we're obviously nowhere
near the trouble areas, what's happening here in the region
definitely doesn't help").
But it's also
clear that Sulayem isn't losing sleep over Dubai's relatively
modest share of U.S. travelers. "You can't get a room here," he
said with a smile. "We have the highest occupancy in the world,
with very high room rates."
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