LAKE PETEN ITZA, Guatemala -- Tikal is arguably the finest excavated Mayan city in Central America. Seeing those ruins was my primary objective on a recent visit to Guatemala, but as magnificent as they were, I ended up spending almost as much time in Tayasal National Monument, a work-in-progress excavation of a Mayan settlement near Lake Peten Itza.
The area around the lake, about 40 miles southwest of Tikal, is thought to have 2,000 settlements dating back to 800 B.C. "Tayasal was big when Tikal was a small village," my guide, Roel Otman, said.
While one could visit Tayasal independently, I would strongly recommend a guide -- and for that matter, strongly recommend Otman. His father worked at Tikal, and he grew up steeped in archaeology and the natural world; there was not a bird, animal, butterfly or snake he could not identify when I was with him, and his knowledge of Mayan history was extraordinary.
And importantly, he personally knew the lead archaeologists working in various Tayasal sites. As a result, they paused their work to give me a tour and answer questions.
One of the archaeological discoveries in Tayasal National Monument. Photo Credit: Arnie Weissmann
The Tayasal ruins are connected by a series of recently built raised boardwalks through a beautiful jungle. The area between the ruins is populated by a variety of colorful birds (Otman is expert at spotting them), and while some moderate climbing is involved in visiting the sites, a reasonably fit visitor should have no problems.
Getting an early look at important ruins as they're being uncovered is a rare and even exciting opportunity and was a perfect complement to time in Tikal.
During my visit to both ruins, I stayed at the Bolontiku Hotel Boutique & Spa on Lake Peten Itza, which also had organized my visits to the sites. It's a beautiful resort and spa, with an excellent restaurant, water activities, sunset boat rides and hiking trails into the hills behind the property. I stayed in a roomy casita along the shore.
The hotel's boat will also bring you to Isla Flores, an island in the lake. Spanish conquistadors brought laborers from Belize to build its structures, and as a result, the architecture feels more Caribbean than interior Central American. Isla Flora is small enough to see thoroughly in a few hours, and its rooftop bars and waterside restaurants make it a pleasant evening excursion.
The spa at Bolontiku Hotel Boutique on Lake Peten Itza in Guatemala. Photo Credit: Arnie Weissmann
The allure of Antigua
On that same trip to Guatemala, I also visited Antigua, a beautiful former colonial capital.
Of the 32 volcanoes within the country's borders, four are visible from the city, providing a striking backdrop. The volcano El Fuego put on a show, chuffing smoke and ash into the early morning sky while I was having breakfast at the rooftop restaurant at Los Pasos Boutique Hotel & Spa, where I was staying. That property is built around beautifully landscaped inner courtyards and is the only upscale lodging in the city that has a spa.
Cathedrals and colonial architecture are the main draws of Antigua, but there are also a few unexpected and unique attractions.
Casa Popenoe, just a few blocks from my hotel, was home to the American botanist Wilson Popenoe, who was initially sent to Guatemala in the early 20th century to find varieties of avocado that could be grown in California. He stayed on and studied plants in the country and, beginning in the 1930s and until his death in 1975, restored a 17th century colonial home. Today, it's a lovely museum that's open only on Thursdays, by appointment, with a maximum of five visitors. It's currently administered by Universidad Francisco Marroquin.
An inner courtyard at Los Pasos Boutique Hotel & Spa in Antigua. Photo Credit: Arnie Weissmann
The other surprising attraction is La Nueva Fabrica, a modern art museum in the suburb of Santa Ana. Its exhibits include a photo gallery that, among international artists, features the stunning work of the late Guatemalan photographer Lissie Habie. When I visited, there were also riveting multimedia avant-garde installations, sculptures, videos, fabric art and paintings. The art is so unexpected that you might begin to think you took a wrong turn and somehow ended up in the Kreuzberg neighborhood of Berlin. Also on the grounds is a whimsical restaurant constructed from two of the outrageously colorful buses that ply Guatemala's highways.
While there is no shortage of very good restaurants in Antigua, Guatelaria offers traditional recipes and ingredients from various regions of the country. It was recommended by my guide at Casa Popenoe as the most authentic local restaurant in town and lived up to my heightened expectations.
In the end, the things that initially drew me to Guatemala -- Tikal and the colonial aspects of Antigua -- certainly didn't disappoint, but as often happens, what was discovered along the way is what is likely to draw me back.
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Update: A state of emergency was in effect when this story was originally filed and published; it has since been lifted.