Iquitos charm makes it more than just a cruise port

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IQUITOS, Peru -The first thing most visitors notice is the buzzing. Just about every street in this Amazon port city is filled with the noise of motocars. A cross between a motorcycle and a rickshaw, it is the best way to get around town.

Unique to this part of Peru, motocars arent the only things that make this destination stand out.

There are also impressive architecture, a rich history, surprisingly good nightlife and cuisine, and easy access to the wonders of the Amazon.

A city of some 600,000, Iquitos is a starting point for Amazon cruises and visits to nearby jungle lodges.

But travelers interested in exploring an offbeat city with unique charms easily can spend a night or two in Iquitos.

What makes the city so different? Well, for starters, you cant get here by land. The only access is via slow boat or airplane.

As a result of its traditionally limited contact with the rest of Peru, Iquitos has forged its own distinct character.

Founded in 1757, Iquitos soon became the nations most important river port. The city boomed in the late 1800s, thanks to the growing rubber trade.

Iquitos is far from its glory days of the rubber boom, but the grand architecture from the era is still visible in the compact city center.

Glazed tile facades adorn the former mansions along the waterfront, where there are impressive views of the river below.

Visitors can enter the Museo Amazonico, a museum with Amazon artifacts, and the Biblioteca Amazonica, a library. Both are housed in mansions that once belonged to rubber barons.

A neo-Gothic church built in 1919 anchors the Plaza de Armas, the main city square.

Across the square is the surprisingly unassuming Casa de Fierro (Iron House), which was designed by Gustave Eiffel, the man behind the Eiffel Tower, for the 1889 Paris Exhibition.The building, which now houses some rather unexciting businesses, was shipped in pieces from Europe and rebuilt here.

Also worth visiting is Belen, a poor neighborhood where most structures are built on stilts to protect them from the rising waters of the rainy season.

These wooden houses, connected via catwalks, offer a fascinating glimpse into the local life of the residents.

Accommodations in Iquitos are limited and best suited to travelers who dont require extreme luxury.

The most upscale property is the Dorado Plaza Hotel, (011) 51-94 222-555, which has an outdoor pool, a fitness center and 24-hour room service. The hotel is in a good location on the Plaza de Armas. Rates start at $150 and include breakfast.

Among the reliable basic properties is the Hotel Acosta (e-mail: [email protected]; Web site: www.hotelacosta.com). The Hotel Acosta has private baths, hot and cold water, TV and air conditioning, and is priced at $40 per night, double, including breakfast and roundtrip airport transfers.

At night, Iquitos heats up as dozens of small bars and a large disco, Noa-Noa, attract a variety of locals and foreigners.

If its too far to walk back to the hotel, there is always a motocar waiting nearby.

The countrys tourist information and assistance service, PromPeru, operates a small tourist information office on the Plaza de Armas.

For information about Iquitos, contact PromPeru at (866) 661-PERU or visit www.peru.info.

To contact reporter Mark Chesnut, send e-mail [email protected].

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