Finally feasting in Thailand, but hungry for more

For so many months at the beginning of the pandemic, the only way we could travel the world was via our taste buds. 

When ordering takeout, I worked my way across the globe — from Mexico to Italy, India to Japan — for more than a year.

So when the opportunity arose for me to get back to Thailand, my first visit in four years, the food scene was a prime inspiration. Especially its chaotic night markets. 

The clang of steel woks; the thick, fragrant smells of fish sauce, chiles and charcoal; the soft sounds of luk thung music against the impermeable din of a humming throng — Thailand’s night markets are all about sensory overload. 

It’s what I missed most about Southeast Asia travel and topped the list of my must-sees as I made my way back during the height of yet another wave of the virus.

The night market scene these days is very different. Walking the maze of pop-up stalls on Walking Street in southern Thailand’s Krabi Town, I noticed right away that the crowds were much thinner than they were before the pandemic. But not so the number of food and clothing stands I passed as I snaked my way through. The familiarly haunting luk thung music echoed through the market; it is Thailand’s folk music, based on the hardships of rural Thai life. It hits far too close to home these days, as the country continues to struggle due to arrival numbers far below the 40 million annual tourists it is accustomed to.

The pans slicked with cooking oil glistened, whole salted fish rotated on grill racks over open flames and the dizzying array of enigmatic street food greeted me from all angles. Sizzling skewers; aromatic beef seasoned with chile, cilantro and basil; sushi with a sweet and succulent glaze, caramelized with a handheld blowtorch. 

In the city of Ao Nang, I hit the famous night market at sunset, just as the stalls were opening. Plates were heaped high with Thai fried chicken. Ribbons of green papaya sloshed back and forth in bowls with bright cherry tomatoes and slices of fiery chiles. You could make out the clinking of Chang beer bottles, quietly, in the corners of the outdoor food court.

I preferred this market to the one in Krabi Town, simply because it was on the water and has a great view of the sunset. If you visit, I recommend the beef salad: tender slices of grilled meat mixed in a sauce of lime juice, cilantro, mint and chiles.

Just like in Krabi Town, the only thing missing here were the hordes of dirt-streaked backpackers, European holidaymakers and Thai nationals from the north. But rest assured that when they do return, the markets will be ready for them, too. Because, like me, they will return hungry.