New York hotels embrace alfresco opportunities

In cities worldwide, the pandemic forced an outdoor dining renaissance. And it’s not only about sidewalk seating and groups in plastic igloos.

Seeing that the appreciation for alfresco eating would long outlast the pandemic, cities are pledging to allot permanent extra space to sidewalk seating, and more streets are being closed to make them pedestrian friendly. 

Likewise, many restaurants that opened or renovated during the past two years have put exciting twists on their outdoor spaces, and existing ones put more emphasis on the alfresco options they have

One such example is Veranda, the restaurant that opened at the ModernHaus SoHo hotel last year, in the former James hotel. 

Launched by Michelin-starred chef George Mendes, Veranda was built with a greenhouse-style, retractable glass roof and side enclosure that can be opened in 90 seconds. The flexible indoor-outdoor system can be partially open or open all the way and, even when closed, diners are surrounded by the city lights. 

On the warm September evening when I visited, I could choose one of the hotel’s many outdoor areas to imbibe. The outdoor Back Bar at Veranda, which is open all day to hotel guests and, in the evening, to those coming off the street, serves drinks and light bites in a space with multiple terraces and a fireplace. There is also a small deck off the bar overlooking Grand Street, and when the hotel became ModernHaus, it kept the property’s famed rooftop bar, Jimmy’s, which has an outdoor deck, swimming pool and sweeping city views. 

Our night began at the horseshoe-shaped bar, where the crowd in town for Fashion Week made for good people-watching. It was a fun accompaniment to the very refreshing Summer Collins, a cocktail with cucumber vodka and elderflower liquor and adorned with a mint sprig. 

The glass enclosure was fully opened when we sat down, allowing in the warm evening breeze with a backdrop of lower Manhattan’s skyline. 

Mendes’ menu features some of the Portuguese dishes he was lauded for at the city’s Aldea restaurant, like salted cod in both the croquettes appetizer and as a casserole, and sea scallops with Portuguese Goan spices. The housemade sourdough bread features Portuguese flor de sal. Some of the non-Portuguese items, like the flatbreads and the lobster small plate, stood out, as well. 

Farther uptown, I had hoped to make it to PHD Terrace, the Dream Midtown hotel’s 16th-floor rooftop bar, before winter to see the sunflower tunnel that seemed to be taking Instagram by storm last summer. 

Instead, I ended up there on a cold January night, sitting with a colleague on a swinging seat sipping cocktails served in glass globes and adorned with herbs. 

PHD, a hot spot that got even hotter during the pandemic as outdoor real estate gained value, is open year-round. When it’s cold, PHD keeps part of its outdoor terrace open, with views straight into the heart of Times Square, but most of the space is protected from the elements by a seasonal enclosure. 

PHD has become known for its changing themes, and the seasonal flower tunnel did not disappoint.

As part of this year’s Midwinter Night’s Dream holiday installation, the terrace was transformed into what Julian Wrede, the hotel’s director of food and beverage, calls “a whimsical dreamland of lush greenery,” with 10,000 twinkling lights illuminating the space. Guests can stay warm with fuzzy throw blankets, and the flower tunnel has a winterized selection of blooms. After omicron killed what was to be a resurgent New York holiday vibe, PHD’s specific charge seemed even more welcome.

“This magical Midwinter Night’s Dream garden at PHD Terrace at Dream Midtown was created to cure a bad case of the winter blues,” Wrede said.

PHD is among the many city venues that have expanded hours and offerings to meet demand for alfresco gathering. 

“When PHD Terrace at Dream Midtown reopened in summer 2020, most people were working from home, and we realized they needed more of an escape from their endless virtual meetings,” Wrede said. The bar brought back what it calls some of its “greatest hits” menu items, like the Wet Dream cocktail and filet mignon sliders, and started to open earlier in the day. 

This season, PHD’s most popular cocktail is Cotton Candy Kisses: prosecco with simple syrup infused with grapefruit and pea flower tea and garnished with cotton candy. Wrede called it “an Instagram sensation.”

I favored the Winter Warmer Margarita, with housemade cinnamon agave syrup and fresh strawberry puree. My colleague and I couldn’t get enough of the crispy mac and cheese balls, served with truffle aioli. The Dream in Roses flower pot cake is also fun, with cream cheese filling, white chocolate “soil” and rose-shaped cake pops. 

Some hotels with limited outdoor dining managed to creatively add alfresco offerings. The Four Seasons Hotel New York Downtown launched a Picnic in the Park experience last fall, with a meal in a picnic basket curated by the property’s executive chef, Maria Tampakis.

Designed for two to enjoy a picnic in the city amid fall foliage in one of the city’s many parks, the program was so popular it will be offered again in the spring. 

The basket, which costs $175, includes cheeses and charcuterie from New York grocer Murray’s Cheese, salads, sandwiches, grilled vegetables, marinated olives, chocolate chip cookies and strawberry lemonade. Wine or Champagne is optional.