I suspect that even for locals, the approach to Interlaken, Switzerland, is dramatic and remarkable. Driving along the north side of the Thunersee lake, the road rises gently just a few miles out, winding its way carefully along the steep mountain face, passing effortlessly through strategically carved tunnels. Less than a mile away, you're offered a spectacular vista of the faultless blue lake, with Interlaken lying in the distance.
You descend quickly down to the lake at Unterseen, a roller coaster-like acceleration that, once at the bottom, propels you along a connector road to downtown Interlaken. And you've arrived.
Interlaken is fully deserving of the superlatives it arouses: the best base for outdoor enthusiasts; the widest selection of facilities; the most helpful tourist office.
I've been coming to Interlaken for more than 20 years, and each time there's something new to discover. Perched between two lakes (inter-laken), the Thunersee and Brienzersee, and served by an intricate network of trains, buses and even funiculars, the city offers easy access to some of the world's most famous mountain hikes and climbs.
Indeed, you can reach the base of the North Face of the Eiger, at Kleine Scheidegg, in less than 45 minutes by public transportation (although you're on your own for tackling the climb).
While my earliest visits to Interlaken were of the budget variety, for which the city offers dozens of suitable lodging and food options, my visits today are far more comfortable. And for pleasing the luxury traveler, Interlaken is truly up to the task.
The accommodations scene
Top of the list for over-the-top indulgence is the Victoria-Jungfrau Grand Hotel & Spa, which has been pampering guests since 1865. It seamlessly combines elegant design with modern and contemporary function. Rooms are spacious and bathed in light, incorporating peerless furnishings along with every conceivable amenity. Three restaurants cater to every occasion, with Restaurant La Terrasse serving refined French cuisine, Jungfarau Brasserie dishing out traditional Swiss cuisine and La Pastateca preparing Italian-inspired fare. An on-site, massive spa provides a bevy of services and treatments, all delivered from a well-heeled staff of professionals. And a comprehensive fitness facility enables the most conditioned athlete to maintain a workout routine. Room rates vary by season and according to demand, starting from about $500. For more, see www.victoria-jungfrau.ch.
The Lindner Grand Hotel Beau Rivage is another five-star choice. Its 101 rooms are decorated with contemporary furnishings and offer views of either the snow-capped Jungfraujoch or the fast-flowing Aare River. Two on-site restaurants, L'Ambiance and La Bonne Fourchette, rotate seasonally, with the former the more casual and operating in the summer, while the latter is more elegant, offering fireside dishes in winter.
The spa and fitness center includes an indoor pool complex, Finnish sauna and workout area. Rates begin at about $400, double. See www.lindnerhotels.ch.
Finally, the ornate lobby of the four-star Hotel Royal-St. Georges might be somewhat tired, but richly appointed, contemporary rooms await within. Its Veranda Restaurant offers a range of international specialties, everything from French to Arabic, and a small wellness center features a sauna, steam room and whirlpool in a chic, minimalist setting. Double rooms are priced from about $210. Go to www.hotelroyal.ch.
Longer-term solutions
As I was making an extended stay in Interlaken this year, I opted for a private apartment, and the local tourist office helped me sort through the long list of options. I settled at Villa Margaretha, a 100-year-old home just two blocks from the city center. It offers modest but sparkling-clean one-room rentals on the home's first floor, while the entire second floor has been converted into a two-bedroom, two-bath apartment featuring a fully equipped kitchen, spacious living room and dining room and terrace that offers views of the distant mountains. At roughly $250 per day, the price was a relative high-season bargain, too.
For more on Interlaken and Switzerland, see www.myswitzerland.com.