I didn't choose to stay in Anopura, about 45 minutes into the hills outside Jaipur, India, merely because it billed itself as "the smallest luxury hotel in the world," although that description did intrigue me.
Its website promised only two guestrooms and one fully equipped luxury tent, but more importantly, the photos suggested I would be staying in what looked like a rural paradise.
Owner Philippe deVillegas, a former Belgian diplomat, Virginia horse farmer and Moroccan developer, met me at the airport.
In 2011, he opened this oasis of luxury in the rocky hills as the jewel in the crown of his varied career, developing a love affair for the land and the people along the way.
On my arrival at the hotel, Ishwar, the majordomo of Anopura, greeted me. He led me through the stone entryway past a cooling swimming pool surrounded by fragrant frangipani trees to a canopied, living/dining room, which perfectly bridged indoors and the outdoors, offering views of the hills from every angle. Parrots and bubuls swooped overhead as we proceeded to an inner courtyard, scented with bowls of rose petals sitting on stone benches.
If God is in the details, then Anopura is a very spiritual place.
Every nook and cranny was filled with tableaux that conveyed the mood of peace and tranquility.
Opening louvered screen doors off the courtyard, Ishwar took me to one of the guestrooms, a spacious, country-style accommodation with a ceiling fan for cooling the days and quilts made with local block-printed fabric for warmth on sometimes-chilly nights in the hills.
I found more rose petals on the pillow and strewn about the well-appointed marble bathroom. Locally crafted furniture and intricate Persian miniatures adorned the room.
Lunch — a delicious chicken piccata, accompanied by green salad grown in Anopura's garden, with a local crisp white wine — was served poolside.
Over lunch, deVillegas shared his vision for this unusual place. "The two-bedroom villa is in the style of a traditional Rajasthani home," he said. "It is designed to be a retreat from the often busy and harsh life in India, a home away from home for our guests."
The limited accommodations keep Anopura private and exclusive. Many visitors will take over the entire property with family or friends. "Everything here is about ease and relaxation: the pool, the gardens, the quiet rooms and most important, the service," he said.
Two other guests were in residence. Ishwar and his staff of three, all his relatives, attended to our every need almost invisibly. Fresh fruit, chocolate and an ample supply of bottled water were deposited in the rooms each evening. During my stay I was served south Indian and local Rajasthani delicacies as well as an authentic Thai coconut chicken curry and the most perfect cheese souffle I recall ever eating. DeVillegas has trained the chef in the European manner with recipes collected from his world culinary adventures.
During my stay, I toured the gardens and took an early morning bird-watching walk through the hills.
With Ishwar, I visited the local village, also called Anopura, where the hotel's employees live. The property has brought valued plumbing and employment to this enclave, and as a guest of "Mr. Philippe," I received a friendly welcome. After a week of viewing India through the window of a car, this provided a welcome opportunity to see India up close.
The hotel arranged a driver and guide so I could take in the sights of Jaipur, which include the Amber Palace and Fort. These wonders offer an impressive view of India during the Mughal reign.
In addition, shopping for textiles and jewelry in the old city, I found ample treasure to bring back to the States.
And after sightseeing and shopping, Anopura was a relief to return to. Once settled into an amply cushioned chair in the evenings, drinking wine with the other guests and anticipating another tasty meal, I found the promised ease and relaxation.
The biggest limitation to this paradise can be found in its "smallest luxury hotel" slogan. With only two guestrooms, even one large family couldn't be easily accommodated. For a limited group, though, Anopura is a fine small site for a vacation.
Guests usually drive from Jaipur or New Delhi. They also can arrange with the hotel for transfers from the Jaipur airport.
Rooms at Anopura are $370 per night, single or double. The tent is $340 per night. The entire facility is available for $1,050 per night. Rates include all meals. All units are heated and air-conditioned. Travel agent commissions are 20%.
Visit www.anopura.com.