In 1994, when then-President Bill Clinton arrived in Naples, Italy, for the G7 summit, he came, he saw and he conquered — the city's authentic pizzerias, that is.
Clinton knew a thing or two about chowing down. And Americans who find themselves in this southern Italian port town on a cruise could do worse than follow in Clinton's footsteps.
The president's quest took him to Via Tribunali, which is home to several of the pizzerias frequently cited as the best in a city that seems to have one on nearly every corner.
Di Matteo’s menu features a picture of President Clinton munching a slice during his visit in 1994. Photo Credit: Tom Stieghorst
I set out on foot to find one that had been recommended to me by former cruise executive (and occasional Travel Weekly contributor) Art Sbarsky. It was Di Matteo, which features a picture of Clinton munching a slice on the cover of its menu.
The place was bustling at 8 p.m. on a Wednesday. The pizza oven and a takeout business are just inside the entrance, with a dining room hidden to the side, and more space up a steep set of stairs. My dining companions and I climbed the stairs to a cozy room lit by florescent lights and containing four tables with paper tablecloths.
The atmosphere at Di Matteo is like eating in an old friend's kitchen. There is marble wainscoting on the walls but rattan in the chair seats. We ordered a margherita, an eggplant and a mushroom/ham pizza, which arrived quickly.
A pizzaiolo tends the oven at Di Matteo. Photo Credit: Tom Stieghorst
They were properly thin-crusted, with burn marks around the rim and a thin layer of tomato sauce and cheese covering their circular expanse. The three pizzas and a bottle of regional red wine cost us 22 euros (about $24).
The following day I was ready for more, so I trooped by myself back to Via Tribunali, this time to Sorbillo, a few blocks down the street. Sorbillo is close to the University of Naples, so I was glad to have arrived before noon. By 12:30 there was a crowd about 20 deep waiting to get in for lunch, mostly students from nearby schools.
Sorbillo is more easily recognized as a restaurant outside, with its blue-and-white-striped awnings. Inside it makes more of an effort to be decorative than Di Matteo. Unlike Di Matteo, however, there is no English translation of ingredients on the menu, so I wasn't sure what toppings were included on some of the pies. I punted and went with the basic margherita.
I expected the pizza in Naples to be crispy, but the crusts were more doughy than I imagined, somewhat the consistency of a soft pretzel.
But it is very satisfying to eat, even so. Although the pizza spilled out over the edge of a 12-inch plate, I finished it all. The tab, including a small glass of wine, was less than 7 euros ($8).
A margherita pizza, the finished product. Photo Credit: Tom Stieghorst
Getting to Via Tribunali from Naples' port terminal is really not too hard, although the walk is mostly uphill; it takes about 15 minutes. My hotel concierge told me a taxi to the area should cost no more than 10 euros (about $11).
Be advised that many restaurants in Naples close after lunch and don't reopen until 7:30 p.m.
Other "Vera Pizza Napoletana" pizzerias (a quality designation) on or near Via Tribunali include Antica Pizzeria Port' Alba and Il Pizzaiolo del Presidente (Clinton ate there, too, and the place was renamed in his honor).