Be it public parks, gardens of grand chateaux or village window
boxes, flowers fill the French scene, pleasing the nose as much as
the eye. This is a country where visitors should take time to smell
the roses.
Right in Paris, clients can stroll any number of parks and
gardens. Those who know the more familiar spots might explore the
themed gardens of Parc Andre Citroen, frequently described as
futuristic. Comprising 35 acres of flowers, trees, shrubs,
ornamental pools, fountains and a canal, this is a relatively new
addition to Paris' green world.
In addition to the popular Bois de Boulogne, 33-1-40-67-90-80,
with its walled garden of iris, water lilies and more than 8,000
roses, and the Left Bank's Jardin du Luxembourg, there is the Bois
de Vincennes, Paris' largest green expanse. Once a royal forest, it
was declared a park in the mid-1800s by Napoleon III. There is a
chateau and its Parc Floral encircles a lake.
Most chateaux boast magnificent gardens and several are near
Paris. At Versailles, 33-1-39-50-36-22, statue-lined paths lead
past fountains and gardens, the latter designed by the famed Le
Notre. Often termed a Garden of Eden, Versailles represents the
best of French formal landscaping with geometrically designed
flower beds enhancing ornamental lakes and canals. A path leads to
the Orangerie with hundreds of palm and orange trees.
The Loire Valley offers flowery scenes par excellence. The
International Parks, Gardens and Landscape Conservatory at Chaumont
sur Loire, 33-2-54-20-99-22, is a likely place to begin. Situated
at a refurbished 19th-century farm, it encompasses all facets of
landscape gardening.
Guidebooks frequently name the Loire's Villandry, along with the
Tuileries and Versailles, as the three "must-see" gardens of
France. Villandry's gardens, more famed than its chateau, are
spread over three terraces, dividing into a kitchen garden planted
in colorful designs and rich with aromatic herbs, vegetables and
fruit trees; an ornamental garden whose clipped greenery represents
the theme of love, and a maze.
Other important Loire Valley gardens are those of Chateau d'Azay
le Ferron (featuring interesting topiary); Chenonceaux; St. Jean de
Beauregard (a walled potager, or kitchen garden), Castle du Pin,
and Fontevraud Abbey.
Normandy claims its share of beautiful gardens, starting with
the weeping willows and water lilies viewed from graceful bridges
at Monet's home in Giverny. Between March and November, Le Bois des
Moutiers in Varengeville sur Mer becomes an array of rhododendron,
azaleas and magnolias, while the 24-acre Arboretum d'Harcourt,
between Brionne and Neubourg, is filled with 400 species of trees
and shrubs.
The Scent of Lavender
Clients can follow lavender trails from the Vaucluse to the Alpes
de Haute Provence and the Drome Valley. Passing by such
lavender-growing areas as Luberon, Mont Ventoux, the Verdon
Canyons, Lure Mountains, the Barronies and Die, visitors view a
purple and blue sea with a fragrance all its own.
Whichever route clients choose, they encounter picturesque
villages, medieval castles, centuries'-old abbeys and numerous
lavender farms and distilleries which are open to the public. They
could try lavender honey, especially in the village of Valensole
where it is a specialty.
Museums, gardens, village markets and fairs pay tribute to the
important lavender trade. From June to September, distilleries
explain the transformation of flowers into perfume.
If timing is right, visitors might join festivals such as the
Corso de la Lavande in Sault, 33-4-90-64-01-21 (Saulte Office de
Tourisme), the first Saturday and Monday of August, celebrating the
area's favorite plant with flower-decked floats, music and
traditional dances.
Grasse and perfume
Since the 16th century, Grasse and perfume have been intertwined.
Today, three-quarters of all perfume contains essences distilled
here. The countryside provides roses, jasmine, lavender, mimosa and
violets which local laboratories convert into oils for the
country's top perfumeries. 33-4-93-36-66-66 (Grasse Office de
Tourisme).
In Grasse, the International Museum of Perfume presents the
industry's history from ancient times to the present. Major
manufacturers, including Fragonard, Molinard and Galimard, offer
guided tours and museum visits. At some factories, fragrances can
be purchased before famous names and elegant bottles add to the
price. Recently, Fragonard opened a Museum of Fashion and Jewelry
of Provence, 33-4-93-36-44-65 (Fragonard factory), in a restored
18th-century building next to the perfumerie. Fragonard and
Galimard also welcome visitors in the village of Eze between Nice
and Monaco.