Princess' Golden rule: Keep it intimate

Cruise editor Brian Major joined an early May preview voyage of Princess Cruises' newest ship, 2,600-passenger Golden Princess. His review follows:

ize is the cruise industry's currency. Today's largest ships exceed 100,000 tons and encompass enough space to offer features and facilities once considered the exclusive domain of land-based resorts.

Today's big ships are designed to offer something for everyone. The diverse amenities and facilities featured on these megavessels are expanding the cruise marketplace and attracting new passengers to this still-emerging vacation form.

But size also can introduce some negative qualities, including crowding in public areas and an absence of the quiet and intimacy with which a seagoing vacation is often associated.

The trick for today's operators, therefore, is to create megaships that are large enough to feature all of cruising's modern-day amenities but aren't so big as to alienate experienced cruisers in search of peaceful days at sea and enjoyable port experiences.

Golden Princess at sea.Princess Cruises' newest vessel, 109,000-ton Golden Princess, comes as close as any contemporary megaship does in achieving this goal. While offering a broad selection of passenger activities and venues, Golden Princess rarely feels crowded. The ship has plenty of intimate areas that allow more passengers to get away from it all, plus a spectrum of activities for more active cruisers.

There's no getting around size when it comes to discussing Golden Princess. It's a massive vessel, 201 feet high with 18 decks, four pools, three main dining rooms, three large show lounges and 1,301 staterooms.

Golden Princess has nine bars and lounges and eight dining venues. There are also a casino, an Internet cafe, a wedding chapel, a spa, a two-story kids and teens center, a reading room, a card room and an art gallery.

My sailing wasn't a "normal" cruise, and not just because of Golden Princess' tremendous scale. For one, the itinerary consisted of three straight days in the English Channel, with no port calls. Secondly, while Golden Princess is designed for North Americans (sister brand P&O markets to U.K. residents), the overwhelming majority of the passengers were British.

Strangely enough, the Brits provided an intriguing test audience for the gleaming new ship. While not completely new to U.K. vacationers (due to P&O's Oriana), megaship cruising is still a recent phenomenon here. Thus, our cruise was filled with hundreds of new test subjects.

I sought advice from a friend at another cruise line (who happens to be a U.K. citizen) to determine what U.K. residents expect from a cruise.

"Cruising is considered a luxury product to the British consumer," he said. "It is not perceived as a mass-market vacation as much as it is in the U.S. In the U.K., cruises are sold to people who desire to be lord of the manor but probably aren't. They want to dress up and make the cruise a much more formal experience."

The Conservatory lido area.Luckily for the British passengers, Golden Princess, while not really formal in atmosphere, is among the most upscale of cruising's megaships.

Indeed, tastefully decorated public rooms abound, beginning with the Grand Plaza, Golden Princess' main lobby. The room features an atrium with a lighted staircase made of glass and marble, panoramic glass elevators wrapped in latticework and marble floors.

While impressive, the Grand Plaza is only three decks high, much smaller than the soaring atriums found aboard other megaships. The atrium design mirrors the rest of the ship: rather than using the massive interiors to construct cavernous public rooms, Golden Princess' designers created multiple areas of activity. Moreover, these areas are surprisingly diverse.

For example, Golden Princess features the fleet's first AOL Internet Cafe. One of the largest such facilities at sea, the cafe houses 25 computer stations in an office-like setting that's tucked into a corner on deck seven (in fact, it's easy to miss the cafe).

During our brief voyage, the facility was heavily used, although transmission problems occasionally forced the cafe to suspend services. Still, the venue drew a steady crowd of passengers, some of whom weren't just chatting with friends or browsing the Internet but actually working.

There are plenty of other high-tech passenger facilities aboard Golden Princess.

Wedding Cam, for example, part of Princess' weddings-at-sea program, broadcasts real-time images from the ship's wedding chapel on Princess' Web site, at www.princess.com. Guests who log on to the site can join newlyweds as the ship's captain conducts wedding and vow-renewal ceremonies.

The F/X Digital Photo Center offers digital photo finishing, enabling passengers to create CDs, calendars and postcards from images taken by F/X's photographers. Voyage of Discovery is a virtual-reality center offering high-tech computer games and golf simulators.

Because our sailing wasn't a regular cruise, it was difficult to tell how many passengers took advantage of the Digital Photo Center or the wedding program. But the ship's open decks were filled with activity. Although the daytime temperatures barely reached 60 degrees Fahrenheit, plenty of passengers were enjoying deck 15's expansive sunning areas during our cruise.

One afternoon, I walked the deck with another passenger from the U.S. We were shivering from the cold, but along the way met several shirtless men and more than a few women wearing bikinis.

In fact, the British passengers seemed to enjoy the ship's outdoor areas more than the indoor facilities.

Princess Links, the nine-hole miniature golf course on deck 15, proved quite popular.

The outdoor activity was a distinct change from North American megaships, where, even on the sunniest days, a large percentage of passengers can be found indoors, shopping or gambling.

Golden Princess also offers three main show lounges: the Princess Theater, Vista Lounge and Explorers Lounge. There are three main dining rooms, the Bernini, the Donatello and the Canaletto. The Atlantis casino measures 13,500 square feet, and there are separate shops for fragrances and cosmetics (Escapades) and fine jewelry and gifts (Facets).

Other dining venues include Horizon Court, an indoor/outdoor buffet restaurant serving breakfast, lunch and dinner, and Desert Rose, a Southwestern-themed restaurant.

Sabatini's Trattoria showcases Italian-style seafood specialties and other Mediterranean favorites in an "authentic" trattoria setting. Passengers can also dine at Prego, a poolside pizzeria, and Trident Grill, a poolside facility serving hot dogs, hamburgers and other grilled food.

Despite these facilities, or perhaps because of them, Golden Princess rarely feels crowded, even when the ship is relatively full.

But there was crowding, and some confusion, during the first evening of our cruise when the ship's mostly British clientele encountered Princess' Personal Choice Dining system.

Personal Choice emphasizes flexible dining times and styles. The program enables guests to choose from dining in one of the main restaurants at any time and with whom they want, much in the manner of land-based restaurants, or in traditional cruise ship manner in the main dining room, with assigned dining times, tablemates and waitstaff.

The system was created in response to North American desires for a more flexible dining experience. But true to the my friend's words, the Brits seemed confused by the need for less formal "options."

Unlike some U.S. crowds on megaships, these passengers seemed to prefer dressy attire and set meal times -- in other words, the traditional cruise system.

In fact, passengers crowded around the entrances to the main dining rooms that first evening, seemingly unsure if they should make reservations or partake in the traditional two-seating system. The traffic patterns seemed to ease as the cruise progressed, however.

Golden Princess' four additional dining options (Horizon Court, Sabatini's, Desert Rose and 24-hour room service) allow passengers to spread their dining times out according to preference. This evens the flow of passengers across the ship, meaning the restaurants and other public areas are rarely packed with guests.

Other public facilities aboard Golden Princess show off the vessel's high-tech edge. Lotus Spa, located high up on deck 15 overlooking the ship's bow, is a state-of-the-art gym and health spa with the latest weight-training equipment and exercise machines, an aerobics room and an outdoor jogging track that circles the facility.

The spa includes a swim-against-the-current pool and a full complement of sauna and massage treatments from British operator Steiner's.

Golden Princess is also kid-friendly. The ship features above-average facilities for children and teen-agers, highlighted by Fun Zone/Off Limits, a two-story activity center with play areas, games, a video arcade, a teen disco and a full slate of kids programs.

Topping off Golden Princess' public rooms (literally) is Skywalker's disco, located atop the ship's rear "spoiler" and accessible via a glass-enclosed moving sidewalk.

This was one area in which the British crowd seemed in tune with North American counterparts -- everyone here seemed to be having a good time as the disc jockey played hits that can be heard on just about every other big ship.

With more than 1,000 staterooms, Golden Princess' diversity extends to passenger accommodations. There are 711 staterooms (80%) with private balconies, including 25 suites (measuring from 515 to 800 square feet); 180 minisuites (325 square feet), and 502 standard outside cabins (215 to 255 square feet).

Golden Princess also offers 228 standard outside cabins (165 to 210 square feet) and 366 inside staterooms (160 square feet).

In its inaugural season, Golden Princess offers 12-day Mediterranean cruises between Barcelona and Istanbul, Turkey, with port calls at Monte Carlo; Florence and Naples, Italy; Athens, and Kusadasi, Turkey, with overnight stays in Venice, Italy; Barcelona, and Istanbul.

Beginning Oct. 3, Golden Princess repositions to Fort Lauderdale, Fla., for a series of seven-day Caribbean cruises visiting St. Maarten, St. Thomas and Princess Cays, Princess' private Bahama island.

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