Spinning around the Maldives amid fish and reefs

MALE, Maldives -- I saw proof of the Maldives spectacular underwater world even before I stepped on a boat.

The seaplane was descending; we were just minutes from skimming up to a dock at our resort. Suddenly, a spinner dolphin erupted from the ocean surface, twirled like a torpedo and splashed into the sea again.

Yep, theres definitely something to see here, I thought.

I make no promises about spinner dolphins, but theres a good chance youll see something spectacular on a dive vacation in the Maldives.

This country in the Indian Ocean is home to an impressive variety of marine life, including tuna, reef sharks, dolphins and, depending on the season, manta rays and whale sharks.

One thing you are guaranteed to see in the Maldives, unfortunately, is bleached coral. Coral takes decades or centuries to grow, but a few weeks of extra-warm water can kill it.

Thats what happened in 1998 when water temperatures in parts of the Maldives reached about 95 degrees, probably as a result of that years strong El Nino.

When coral dies it becomes white or light gray, which is why divers and marine biologists describe dead coral as bleached.

Not all of the reefs in the Maldives were bleached, but many were. In most places, the coral has begun to grow again, but its clear that the process will take decades.

Whats wonderful, and somewhat puzzling, is that the fish life in the Maldives remains among the best in the world.

Ive never seen more fish anywhere. On each dive, clouds of silver fish hovered above me.  These schools of fish occasionally became so tight that they dappled the sunlight as if I were lying underneath a leafy tree on a sunny day.

Despite the state of the coral, diving is still one of the best things you can do in the Maldives.  The best way to avoid bleached reefs is to dive with a liveaboard, also known as a safari boat. As the name suggests, divers live aboard these boats for days or weeks at a time.

Some are truly floating hotels, with gourmet food, comfortable cabins and organized entertainment; others are just good boats designed to get you to the countrys healthiest reefs.

The main appeal of liveaboards is their mobility; for diehard divers theyre the best way to go.

If you like a bit more comfort and a lot more options for non-diving entertainment, then stay at a resort. (But be prepared to dive the resorts reefs, which may or may not have been bleached.)

On my trip to the Maldives, I stayed at Soneva Fushi, a resort in the Baa Atoll, toward the northern end of the archipelago. (See Room Key box at top right.)

I wanted the resorts terrific food, indulgent spa treatments and luxurious accommodations, but I was equally impressed with the dive operation.

The boats are spacious and steady, and the staff was quick to help guests with their equipment.

Most important, these guys know the waters of the Maldives better than anyone.

On my first day, I watched a dive instructor recover a camera that had been lost on the previous days dive.

The guest couldnt remember exactly where he dropped it, but the dive instructor knew the pattern of the currents at the dive site and found the camera within five minutes.

Soneva Fushi also hosts a marine biologist named Bill Allison. Allison is studying a variety of underwater phenomena, but he specializes in the territorial habits of titan triggerfish.

When he has time, hes glad to take guests snorkeling and help them understand the complicated ecosystem of a coral reef.

I meant to ask him why spinner dolphins spin, but the rest of the reef proved too distracting and I forgot. Some things are best left to the imagination anyway.

Soneva Fushi pays agents 10% commission on accommodations and dive packages. For more information, visit www.sixsenses.com/soneva-fushi. Most liveaboards also pay commission to agents.

The Maldives Tourism Promotion Board lists dozens of liveaboards on its Web site at  www.visitmaldives.com.mv.

To contact the reporter who wrote this article, send e-mail to [email protected].