Brasov: Preserving its past while looking to the future

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BRASOV, Romania -- A glance out a window and time freezes: The moon is suspended above Tampa, the hill around which this medieval city is situated.

I am in Brasov, capital of Transylvania, and its been only 16 years since Romanias longtime Communist dictator, Nicolae Ceaucescu, was overthrown.

Most of Romania is still struggling to find its footing in the new capitalist world, but Brasov itself is well on its way.

New boutiques and restaurants, and even a new shopping mall, are all signs that Brasov is leaving its dark, more recent past behind -- but not by abandoning older, medieval legacies.

Reconstruction on the old city walls is under way, and archaeological research is ongoing; Brasov is by and large a medieval city, where most attractions were built before 1600.

Most structures in Brasovs medieval core -- including the 620-year-old, Gothic-style Black Church, which earned its name in a 1689 fire -- were built prior to the 17th century.Brasovs most famous landmark is the Black Church, one of the largest such Gothic structures in eastern Europe and unique in its blend of Western and Eastern adornments.

Begun in 1385 and completed 92 years later, it was blackened in a 1689 fire -- hence its name.

A visit to the history museum -- housed in the old council house, built in 1420 -- is advised for a crash course in local events through medieval times.

Two other museums, the art and ethnographic museums, offer more specific insights into both local and more general Romanian history and culture.

To get the best views of the Old City, visitors should climb or ride the tram to the top of Tampa or visit the Black Tower on the other side of the city.

It only takes two days to see all of Brasovs main sites, but within less than an hours ride lies Romanias most famous attraction:  Draculas Castle.

Actually called Bran Castle -and having little to do with Dracula -- its a small, Gothic fortification that dates to 1377.

There are many hotels in and around Brasov, but only three are in the city center: the four-star Aro Palace, three-star Capital and two-star Coroana -- Brasovs oldest, built in 1910.

All three hotel properties offer modern amenities, but the Aro Palace has the most up-to-date furnishings and decor.

For more on Brasov, Transylvania or Romania, contact the Romanian National Tourist Office in New York by phone at (212) 545-8484 or online at www.romaniatourism.com.

To contact the reporter who wrote this article, send e-mail to [email protected].

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