Until the early 1990s, the Dalmatian coast
of Croatia was a popular destination for tourists from many
European countries, who were attracted by its cheaper prices and
"guaranteed" sunshine during the summer months. But during the
bitter conflict with Serbia, Croatia's former partner in the
Yugoslav federation, tourism came to an abrupt halt.
However, since
the end of the war in 1995, Croatia has been steadily returning to
its former position as a popular leisure destination in Europe. In
addition to European visitors, there have been increasing numbers
of visitors from all parts of the world, including North America.
In 2004, Croatia welcomed 98,000 visitors from the U.S., up from
65,000 in 2003.
The country is
witnessing massive development in tourism infrastructure, with
improved roads, new hotels and improved signage. Travelers can fly
to several cities in the country, although Zagreb, Split and
Dubrovnik are the most used entry points.
Zagreb, a bustling capital
Zagreb, a city of
over 1 million, is well connected to other European cities by
plane, road and rail. As such, Croatia's capital is a good starting
point for exploring the northern part of the country. There is an
excellent tram system to get around the city. Most of its
attractions are grouped in a small area north of the railway
station, close to the Sava River.
Zagreb is nearly
1,000 years old, and much of its medieval core remains. Two
churches dominate the skyline: St. Stephen's Cathedral, with its
twin neo-Gothic filigreed spires, and St. Mark's Church, with its
distinctive, painted roof.
The most unusual
religious site is found at the 13th century Stone Gate, which has a
painting of the Virgin Mary that remarkably escaped being damaged
by a fire in 1731. People stop to pray as they pass.
From the rail
station, a series of pleasant parks leads up to the main square,
Trg Jelacica. Pavilions in the parks house galleries and museums.
Near the square, a lively produce market operates each morning. In
the summer, stalls are stocked with strawberries and
cherries.
Plitvice National Park
About 80 miles
southwest of Zagreb, the wonderland of lakes, waterfalls, cascades
and virgin forest of beech and fir that make up Plitvice National
Park should not be missed.
The entry fee is
about $12 and is valid for two days. The price includes a shuttle
bus service -- no private cars are allowed -- that takes you to the
starting points for boat rides as well as hikes on trails around
the lakes. Boardwalks approach waterfalls and cascades -- a
photographer's paradise. It is best to take the shuttle to the
highest point and walk downhill.
With only three
hotels within the boundaries of the park, accommodations are
limited. But a number of small hotels and dozens of private homes
with rooms for rent are along the highway on both sides of the
park.
The Dalmatian coast
By far the most
popular destination in Croatia is the Dalmatian coast on the
Adriatic Sea. It extends from the Pula Peninsula in the north to
Dubrovnik and beyond toward Montenegro and Albania. 
The coastal strip is narrow and
backed by a rugged mountain range.
Along the coast
are towns such as Zadar, Sibenik, Primosen and Trogir as well as
the large port of Split, from were many island-hopping cruise boats
leave.
The old town
areas in these towns are attractive; they are all built on rocky
peninsulas jutting out into the sea and are surrounded by massive
defense walls. Romans, Ottomans, Venetians and the
Austro-Hungarians have all held these towns, and the influences of
all are apparent.
Zadar is full of
narrow streets lined with stone buildings, picturesque squares and
pretty sea views. The circular Church of St. Donatus is built over
the ruins of an old Roman forum. On the esplanade along the
waterfront, vents have been made in the pavement, and when the tide
ebbs and flows, particularly in stormy weather, organ-like sounds
can be heard.
Sibenik has the
lovely Renaissance Cathedral of St. Jacob, unique in that it was
built entirely of pre-cut stone and then assembled on site. Like
Sibenik, the town of Trogir is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, its
tiny area encapsulating many fine architectural examples. Split is
famous for the ruins of Diocletian's Palace.
Dubrovnik is
undoubtedly the jewel in the crown of Croatia's coastal towns.
Badly damaged during the war, huge sums of money had been poured
into repairing to the old town. Today, it is hard to spot the
damage.
Points on the
walls that surround the town offer fantastic views of the city and
coast. The narrow streets are packed with shops and
restaurants.
Adriatic island-hopping
A number of
small-ship cruise lines offer seven-day sailings among the myriad
of islands off the Dalmatian coast. Most cruises start at Split,
although Dubrovnik and Opatija are also launch points.
Most vessels
accommodate between 20 and 40 passengers, which enables the ships
to stop at small ports on the islands and to moor in tiny coves for
swimming and other water activities.
Much larger ships
can also be seen, but these are restricted to visiting only the
larger ports such as Dubrovnik.
The islands off
Split are rocky, with tiny villages clinging to hillsides where
slopes have been laboriously cultivated for vineyards and other
produce.
Islands to visit
include Hvar, Korcula (where Marco Polo was born), Brac, Mljet and
Vis. There are small harbors on each.
Beaches on the
islands and along the coast are mainly rocky. Brac, famous for its
picturesque, sandy beach at Bol, is an exception.
For information,
call the Croatian National Tourist Office in New York at (800)
829-4416 or visit http://us.croatia.hr.
To contact the reporter who wrote this article, send e-mail
to [email protected].