On my second full day at Villa Ardore in Tuscany's Chianti region, I found myself alone in the spa after an afternoon of sightseeing, reveling in the solitude. It was a first.
Sure, in my travels I've occasionally had a sauna or hammam to myself, or even a plunge pool. But this time, the entire facility was all mine. To be sure, it's an intimate space, but all the pieces were in place: the sauna, sunken whirlpool bath, Turkish steam room, sensory shower and lounge chairs. There also are treatment facilities, where earlier I had a first-rate massage with a choice of aromatherapy oils.
This level of exclusively perfectly encapsulates the Villa Ardore experience, a 16th century property whose eight en suite bedrooms are spread out over two buildings.
The spa at Villa Ardore offers privacy and views of the Tuscan countryside. Photo Credit: Courtesy of Villa Ardore
The main villa where I stayed was once an ancient lookout tower and features six suites, each different and each offering views of the Tuscan countryside. Guests can also choose to stay in a renovated barn with two additional suites and a modern design aesthetic.
Accommodations in the main villa include such rustic touches as exposed stone walls, massive antique armoires of gleaming polished wood, ceilings with original beams, waxed terra cotta floors, handwoven rugs and claw-foot tubs in some of the luxe marble bathrooms. There are also heated floors and quirky objets d'art sprinkled throughout.
There is also WiFi as well as air conditioning and heating throughout the property -- not a given at a country villa and especially welcome since the property is open year-round.
Common spaces include a reclaimed antique Parisian bar in the entryway of the main villa, where we were greeted on arrival by the indefatigable villa manager, Francesco Goracci. Fully cognizant that we'd be frazzled and starving after our overnight journey, he had laid out a spread of charcuterie and cheese platters, tomato compote and homemade focaccia for us to nibble on, served with our choice of Chianti or espresso drinks.
Common spaces also include a living room with a roaring fireplace surrounded by cozy seating, where we enjoyed a casual dinner with wine one night as we chit-chatted with Goracci and shared our favorite travel stories.
Another night we tucked into a multicourse wine-pairing dinner -- the property features a 500-bottle wine cellar -- in the 18-seat dining room, prepared for us by private chef Roberto and featuring Chianti and bianco wines.
Daily breakfast is also served in the dining room and offers a selection of hot and cold choices, including a dizzying array of fresh fruits and pastries, all overseen by Salvatore, our breakfast chef, whose resume includes The Four Seasons.
The reclaimed vintage bar, where aperitifs are served nightly. Photo Credit: Courtesy of Villa Ardore
Walking the grounds
A huge part of the appeal of the Villa Ardore is its grounds, the showpiece of which is a large, saltwater infinity pool with a waterfall and hydromassage area; an expansive patio; and a marble-topped, illuminated poolside bar.
Our autumn visit precluded a dip in the pool, but we took the time to sip ros... by an outdoor fire pit and to stroll around the other outdoor facilities, which include a 20-seat dining area, complete with a pizza oven -- this is Italy, after all -- where guests can dabble in pizza-making with a local pizzaiolo. There also is a bocce court, herb and culinary gardens and a chicken coop whose hens supply the morning eggs.
The property is owned by California-based attorney Christian Scali and screenwriter Stephen Lewis, both of whom were on hand during our stay and who shared their vision for the transformation of the villa from vintage farmhouse to its present incarnation: part vacation home for the owners and part guest-centric villa.
The couple worked with Florentine architect Massimo Pieratelli to bring the property back to life while retaining its authentic character. The $2.6 million project was completed in the summer of 2023.
Stays can be customized to include a variety of services and can include roundtrip transfers to and from the Florence airport, about 30 minutes away.
The villa's 500-bottle wine cellar. Photo Credit: Courtesy of Villa Ardore
Beyond the grounds
It struck me during our stay that the property would be a great fit for families and groups of friends but also for high-end bachelorette parties.
"[For] bachelorette getaways, we absolutely can accommodate all of those interests: spa, salon services, shopping, wine tasting, etc.," Lewis said when I asked him about it.
"Every stay at Villa Ardore is planned around guests' needs and desires," he said, from biking and hiking to pecorino cheese-making and fine art.
During our stay, for example, we enjoyed a visit to Bottega d'Arte Ceramica, a combination showroom and ceramics workshop, where the artist/proprietor, Nicoletta Penco, taught us how to paint our own ceramics, which she then fired and shipped to us; a Chianti classico wine-pairing lunch at Poggio Amorelli; dinner at Pietracupa, a seasonal restaurant where we enjoyed our meal in a glassed-in garden room punctuated by the sound of rain on the roof; and a terrific walking tour of the medieval walled city San Gimignano.
Although visitors can and do sometimes rent their own cars, we appreciated being driven around in a rugged vehicle designed to withstand the last bumpy, unpaved part of the journey to the property through scenic woods and vineyards.
Nightly rates start from about $6,500, depending on the level of services guests choose.