Hong Kong sells itself in a single glance. A skyline of steel, glass and ambition rising from Victoria Harbour, it is a city that pulses with distinct, irresistible rhythms.
Hong Kong Island is driven by global finance, luxury brands and a legacy shaped by more than 150 years under British rule (which ended in 1997), with Chinese influences surfacing at every turn.
Across the harbor is mainland Kowloon, a special administrative region of China, with neon-lit markets, tightly packed neighborhoods and deeply rooted Cantonese traditions. And farther north, the New Territories surprise with rural areas, nature parks and minor islands.
Together, they welcome visitors to a place that feels cosmopolitan yet profoundly human, somewhere they feel is going to draw them back again and again.
I found myself in the middle of it all, staying at The Hari Hong Kong, in Hong Kong Island's former Wan Chai red light district. The hotel's reception lounge feels like the elegant, book- and art-filled sitting room of a private home, and the 210 guestrooms combine design with boutique luxury. The Hari, Library and Chesham Suites on the top 30th floor have freestanding soaking tubs and sit-out terraces that run the length of the suites.
There are two dining options at the Hari -- Lucciola Restaurant and Bar for Italian and Zoku Restaurant for Japanese -- plus The Terrace for alfresco aperitifs.
But looking to immerse myself in Wan Chai life, I found myself in a tiny, family-run shui mei restaurant eating barbecued pork belly, duck and goose before happening on women known as "villain hitters." These elderly women, seated under the Canal Road Flyover, ward off bad spirits by energetically smacking an old slipper on a piece of paper bearing the name of the "villain" who's been getting under your skin.
In Hong Kong, the past is not preserved as much as it's practiced: Feng shui shapes everything from skyscraper design and storefront layouts to family bathrooms. Incense coils burn in temples as offerings to ancestors, and each seventh lunar month, locals leave food out on the sidewalks or in parks to appease the ghosts that are said to roam the streets.
Visitors can ascend to Victoria Peak via a funicular that dates back to the late 19th century. Photo Credit: William Furniss
Insider tips
A smart way to get under the skin of the city is to participate in the Hong Kong Pals, a program run by the Hong Kong Tourism Board that links visitors with local volunteers.
At the Kowloon Visitor Centre I met Belinda Chan, who shared tips on where to eat for the best harbor views and what was new in town. I saw Art Basel Hong Kong with modern art from international galleries, collectors and artists. The local edition of the world famous art fair takes place every March.
I also learned not to overlook Hong Kong as an outdoor destination. Yes, outdoors; Belinda told me that despite its high-rise imprint, Hong Kong excels when it comes to nature.
Victoria Peak on Hong Kong Island is reached via the funicular tram, opened in 1888 and once steam-powered. Now upgraded, it still runs on the original line. At the top, Sky Terrace 428 is the highest viewing platform, and Lugard Road's circular walk has some of the best unobstructed harbor and skyline views, while serious hikers will like the steep climbs and rugged terrain on the 48-mile Wilson Trail.
Another must is Lantau Island for its serene nature, traditional villages and iconic sights like the Big Buddha, all just half an hour by rail or ferry from the Central district on Hong Kong Island.
Urban walkers will enjoy Hong Kong Island's newly completed East Coast Boardwalk along the harbor. This is Asia's most iconic waterfront and is especially dramatic at night. Belinda told me the best views are from Kowloon's Tsim Sha Tsui district.
In the Tim Ho Wan restaurant there, I drank in the glittering skyline as I enjoyed traditional dim sum, my table piled high with stacks of steamer baskets.
The annual June Dragon Boat Festival draws teams from all over the world. Dragons play a significant role in many cultural events in Hong Kong. Photo Credit: Hong Kong Tourism Board
The appeal of 'WestK'
The West Kowloon Cultural District (called "WestK") is a sprawling arts hub with more than 1,000 exhibitions, performances and events every year. It's where visitors will find the Hong Kong Palace Museum and its spectacular collection of ancient ceramics. Also in WestK is the M+ museum, which focuses on 20th- and 21st-century visual culture.
The district has regular event-based and seasonal markets and pop-up boutiques with museum-style shopping -- think art-related items and handcrafts. Getting to West Kowloon is part of the experience, as the new WestK ferry (bicycles and pets welcome) takes just eight minutes and is the fastest and most scenic link between the Island's Central district and Kowloon.
Speaking of high-speed ferries, a daytrip to Macau on the Hong Kong-Macau line takes roughly an hour and offers a mix of Portuguese heritage, historical sites, casinos and great food.
Hong Kong's calendar is packed with multifaith festivals and traditional parades.
At the Spring Piu Sik Floating Colours parade, taking place on May 24, children dressed as folklore figures float above the crowds using concealed supports, and for the Tai Hang Fire Dragon Dance during the Mid-Autumn Festival, an insanely long dragon covered in burning incense sticks will dance through the streets on the evening of Sept. 25 this fall.
These celebrations include colorful night markets selling knickknacks and popular street food.