On Thailand's many stunning islands, it's easy to find thumping bars and full moon (and every other night of the month) parties with celebrating revelers. But what about clients who want a quiet, unspoiled island with the Goldilocks amount of tourist infrastructure?
Koh Yao Noi -- the direct translation is "island long little" -- is in the Andaman Sea's Phang Nga Bay, about 30 minutes by boat from both Phuket and Krabi. Life here is tranquil and relaxed, without megaresorts and crowds. I first visited Koh Yao Noi 20 years ago and was pleasantly surprised on my recent return by its few changes.
A handful of luxury boutique hotels now accompany the bungalows and guesthouses; it's easier now to find espresso drinks and spa treatments; bikes and kayaks are higher quality. But the days and nights are still quiet, beaches natural, roads almost empty and people welcoming.
Koh Yao Noi's population is about 5,000, spread out in a dozen small villages. Most people are Muslim, so many restaurants choose not to serve pork, though most do serve alcohol. While not far by speedboat, Koh Yao Noi is the antithesis of Phuket, Koh Phi Phi, Ao Nang, and the crowds. Instead, it's an ideal Thai island for clients who want laidback sun and relaxation, a taste of traditional Thailand and just the right amount of tourist comforts.
Hongs, or shallow lagoons, are accessible by boat via caves or narrow channels. Photo Credit: Johanna Read
Out on the water around Koh Yao Noi
Koh Yao Noi is the optimal base for clients who want to explore the 40-some karst islands dotted across the Phang Nga Bay.
Most island hopping is done a via traditional longtail boat. Clients who stay on Koh Yao Noi have more flexibility in which islands they see and can more easily visit the most frequented sites before or after day trippers from Krabi and Phuket.
Some islets are dramatic tall towers of limestone, and others drip with massive stalactites or flaunt white beaches. Sandbars appear and disappear with the tide, providing exclusive spots for a photo op. The most unusual islands have a hong -- Thai for "room" -- at the center: a shallow lagoon sometimes accessible by boat via caves or narrow channels, sometimes reachable only by birds, monkeys, and climbers.
Aptly named Koh Hong is a popular stop: its hidden, mint-green interior lagoon is entered via a 30-foot-wide curved channel between 100-foot-high rock walls. The island also has picturesque beaches for snorkeling and a spectacular 360-degree viewpoint, a sweaty 45-minute trip up a 419-step iron staircase. Birders keep their eyes and ears open for the Indochinese blue flycatcher, white-rumped shama, red-eyed bulbul, white-bellied sea eagle and the brahminy kite. The amusing banana beaks of Oriental pied hornbills are easier spotted back on Koh Yao Noi.
Other water activities include kayaking amongst the mangroves, scuba diving (with the best conditions occurring from October to April), and there's a chance of seeing gentle whale sharks between August and November.
The view atop Koh Hong's staircase. Photo Credit: Johanna Read
Exploring the island
Koh Yao Noi's pace of life is easy. Transportation is by bicycle, motorbike and songthaew taxi-truck. A busy day might include yoga, batik painting, Muay Thai martial arts or a cooking class. The island has several sprinklings of eateries and shops; Thai food and locally made jewelry, clothing and bags predominate. Thai Khai village, the island's main town, boasts a 24-hour 7-Eleven, an ATM, an ice cream shop and an afternoon market.
Koh Yao Noi's large tides mean the view and conditions are always changing. The best times for swimming, beach strolling, and kayaking vary throughout the day.
Cape Kudu's beaches change with the tide. Photo Credit: Cape Kudu Hotel
Where to stay
Given that Koh Yao Noi vacations center so much around accommodation, advisors' hotel recommendations are especially important.
Most waterfront hotels are on the island's east side, and a few dot the north end. Koh Yao Noi does have an all-inclusive, Ani Thailand, but it's meant as a private resort for one group at a time, with 20 guests max. Six Senses Yao Noi is the island's most expensive hotel and features 56 villas with private pools cascading down an east coast hillside.
Further south is Small Luxury Hotels of the World member Cape Kudu, a value-priced boutique property just across the road from Klong Jark Beach. Families with kids are welcome. Most of the hotel’s 56 accommodations are in the three-story main building, but a dozen villas with private pools are hidden within the property’s lush gardens.
Euro-Asian Hornbill Restaurant and Long Island Bar overlook the main infinity pool and sea. Another pool, library, a sandy sunbathing terrace and a gazebo offer more relaxing space. The serene spa is around the corner. Next door is Cafe Kantary, serving coffees, fresh fruit smoothies, light meals and delectable desserts, complete with prime hornbill watching. Cape Kudu's breakfast buffet is perhaps the best on the entire island.
It's hard to resist lounging by Cape Kudu's infinity pool. Photo Credit: Johanna Read
How to get to Koh Yao Noi
Hotel speedboats and public ferries connect Koh Yao Noi to Phuket and Krabi. From Phuket's airport, the total trip is about an hour; add another 20 minutes from Krabi. Higher-end hotels have lounges with soft drinks and snacks for guests awaiting their speedboat.
If clients are overnighting in Phuket or Krabi due to their flight schedule, I'd recommend Kantary Bay Hotel Phuket or five-star Cape Panwa Hotel in the south. Or, the Renaissance Phuket Resort & Spa is just 20 minutes from the airport. In Krabi, eco-hotel Varana Hotel Krabi, with its focus on sports and wellness, is a top choice.