Ocean Princess summers in Alaska

Alaska editor Ryan P. Smith and his sister Katie Smith spent a week cruising Alaska aboard Princess' newest ship, Ocean Princess. Smith's review follows:

VANCOUVER -- Princess Cruises' newest ship, Ocean Princess, is spending its first summer tracing Alaska's Inside Passage, a labyrinthine collection of thousands of islands, on a seven-day itinerary between Vancouver and Seward, Alaska.

Northbound passengers spend their first day sailing from Vancouver to Ketchikan, Alaska. Docking in Ketchikan for a half-day, the ship then moves on to Juneau.

Arriving early in the morning, passengers have a full day to spend in Juneau, then sail onward to Skagway.

Although including another early morning arrival, Skagway offers a wide range of activities that will fill up the day.

The itinerary closes with two days at sea and a third day disembarking in Seward.

Ocean Princess' Atrium.Sea days feature visits to Glacier Bay National Park and College Fjord for wildlife and glacier viewing.

The final day is spent on a motorcoach to Anchorage, where passengers either embark on their return flights home or join a land-tour extension. Southbound itineraries are available in reverse.

Stretching 800 feet deep and 14 decks high, the 1,950-passenger Ocean Princess' accommodations include 410 staterooms with private balconies.

Of these, six are grand suites, 32 are minisuites and 372 are standard balcony staterooms. In addition, the vessel offers 500 standard staterooms with either an ocean view or no view at all.

As one might assume, cruisers will spend much of the time on an Alaska voyage looking outside the ship. Alaska's rising monoliths of glacier-scraped granite, swimming sea otters and breaching whales (not to mention the calving glaciers) demand a watchful eye and create an "I might miss-something" tension for passengers.

Our voyage encountered sharp winds that made the summer feel a bit chilly. Because of that, we found private balconies important for a couple of reasons. They are recessed into the boat, protecting passengers from the strong winds. The balconies are also private. With 24-hour room service bringing coffee or lunch whenever requested, we found no good reason to leave the stateroom on these chilly sea days.

The new ship features some amenities that nearly match the mountain views.

Take the library, for instance, where lush leather reading chairs with built-in CD players and wide footrests are lined up next to a row of large windows.

The four-story-tall Atrium has a winding staircase lined with a brass railing as glass-enclosed elevators shoot up and down.

It all seems a bit out of place for a ship floating through the Inside Passage. It's a perfect scene for wearing a tuxedo, watching champagne pour over a stack of glasses and listening to the strains of a string quartet.

Other shipboard perks include the Ocean Spa, which offers massage, shiatsu and aroma therapies; a beauty parlor for facials, hairstyling, manicures and pedicures; two exercise rooms with fitness equipment, including eight treadmills that look out toward the ocean through floor-to-ceiling windows; two theatres; a disco, and a video arcade.

Two theaters, the Princess Theatre and the Atrium Lounge, feature Broadway-style shows throughout the week. Movies are also shown in the Princess Theatre.

These events are only after-thoughts, though, as it seems everyone's evening highlight is food. Princess has both early and late dinner seatings at two formal dining rooms, and more casual dining at a pizzeria and a 24-hour restaurant.

The formal dining rooms were elegant and spacious, and the waiting staff was very personable. Most are from Italy, and their accents add spice to the entrees. Their efficiency was also second-to-none with the head waiter and an assistant hawkishly monitoring every glass of water.

At breakfast and lunch, the dining rooms are open as is the seating, offering an excellent chance to survey the clientele. Surprisingly, there were many more young people than I expected, mostly families consisting of parents with teenage to early-20s children, plus a large contingent of newlyweds ranging from the late twenties to late forties.

The reason for this burgeoning youth market is twofold. One reason is that Alaska presents an opportunity for safe, yet adventurous travel. In ports like Juneau and Skagway, glaciers rest in primal form only a few miles out of town.

Opportunities to board a helicopter and fly off to a dog-sledding camp or glacier hike exist in Alaska, with each of those programs costing more than $300.

There are many other activities for the fainthearted or those without financial means. These give passengers a chance to touch the beautiful land that has consumed their attention throughout the trip.

Another reason Princess Cruises continues to draw a young passenger population is the range of activities on board.

After dinner most nights during the voyage, the older crowd could be found huddling around tables in a lounge as a pianist plays the polished, white baby-grand piano at the front of the room.

The younger kids, however, dashed to the top deck to play all-night basketball as their parents screamed, "Be home before I am, or else."

But the parents are headed to any number of activities planned for them, such as the three-variety shows in the Princess Theatre. They were bound to forget about their kids as the Princess Dancers sing and dance musical numbers from West Side Story and other favorites.

The 20-somethings head for the all-night disco that will not close unless fewer than 10 people are present after 2 a.m., according to a bartender.

Newlyweds found ways to keep busy, and everyone else looks for calmer settings such as watching a movie or sitting in a quiet lounge.

When the sun returns, the night's fun weighs on you, but the many options beg for a renewed energy. One afternoon, the basketball court was aflutter as two teenagers took on a couple of men in their mid-20s.

The 20-somethings won, but met their match in their next opponents, two middle-aged (and overweight) men. As the match began, one of the older participants came charging down the lane.

The 20-year-old launched to block his shot, but the massive one caught him in mid-air, sending him flying into a protective netting surrounding the court.

This type of street basketball -- in the middle of Alaska's Inside Passage -- is indicative of the activities that keep the crowds young and Princess' cruise style strong.

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