SCARBOROUGH, Tobago -- The islands of Trinidad and Tobago, located
in the southeastern Caribbean just off Venezuela's coast, combine
to form one nation, but in reality, the islands are quite
different.
Tobago is the antithesis of its larger sister. It is as peaceful
and calm as Trinidad is loud and frenetic.
While Trinidad is known as one of the Caribbean's biggest
industrial cities, Tobago's bird life and nature trails are quite
noteworthy and its residents easygoing and amicable.
Smaller cruise ships visiting Tobago dock at the well-organized
cruise ship facility in central Scarborough.
Larger ships must anchor off shore and transfer passengers to
the terminal via tender, although Tobago tends to attract mainly
small and midsize vessels.
The terminal has a few small, limited stores, and there's a
craft stand outside. It's best to save the shopping for another
port and enjoy Tobago's cultural sites and fine beaches.
There aren't many attractions within walking distance of the
cruise terminal here. A taxi is generally the best way to get
around.
But note that it pays to agree on a fare before climbing into
the car. Also, distances can be deceiving, since some of the roads
are in very bad shape and others wind along the coast and twist
through the mountains. There is no single road that completely
circles the island.
There are a handful of cultural sites worth visiting in Tobago.
Fort King George overlooks Scarborough's east side and offers a
great view of the Atlantic coast. The fort is a well-restored
British-built battery dating from 1777. There's no admission charge
to enter the grounds.
Other historic buildings here include St. Andrew's church (built
in 1819) and the courthouse (built in 1825).
Scarborough's botanical gardens, situated between the main
highway and town center, is not much more than a glorified public
park with a few marked trees.
The beaches, on the other hand, are superlative. Pigeon Point
Beach, a lush white-sand beach with tall, wavy palm trees and
sky-blue water, is a local favorite that can be reached via a
20-minute taxi ride from the terminal.
The attraction is also offered on most cruise ship excursions in
Tobago.
The beach includes a restaurant, a bar and several small huts
that line the shore.
A hut is allocated to cruise passengers for shaded relaxation,
and a beach barbecue is also offered. Water sports, including
snorkeling and banana-boat rides, are available.
Store Bay, south of Pigeon Point, has white sands and good
year-round swimming (there's a lifeguard, too).
The beach at Store Bay is lined with a row of cheap food stands
offering rotis (chicken or beef wrapped in Indian turnovers and
flavored with curry), "shark & bake" (a local favorite
featuring shark), crab and dumplings, and fish lunches.
You'll also find vendors hawking local wares and glass-bottom
boat tours to Bucco Reef.
The beaches at Parlatuvier and Bloody Bay, on Tobago's Caribbean
(west) coast, are tranquil and secluded.
Nylon Pool, named for its crystal-clear water, is a small lagoon
near Bucco Reef. It is filled with tropical fish and is great for
wading and swimming.
Tobago is virtually surrounded by shallow-water reefs filled
with colorful marine life easily visible through the clear
water.
The island's reefs offer all kinds of diving experiences, from
beginner-level dives at Bucco Reef to drift-diving at Grouper
Ground for the more experienced.
As for other activities here, there's an 18-hole championship
golf course at the Mount Irvine Hotel, about five miles from Pigeon
Point.
It's among the most scenic courses in the Caribbean, and
overlooks the sea from gently rolling hills. The clubhouse sits on
a promontory and offers great views.
There are several moderately priced ($15 to $25 per person)
restaurants in Tobago, including Jemma's Seafood Kitchen, a
beachside restaurant and tavern where the catch of the day is
cooked to order and served on a shaded veranda overlooking the
sea.
The Old Donkey Cart House is housed in a restored colonial home
that once served as Tobago's first guest house. Today it's a bistro
serving French wines, light snacks and salads, plus such
specialties as armadillo and opossum.