NAIROBI, Kenya -- As the plane started to make its descent, the
Nairobi skyline came into view, and I knew the meaning of deja vu.
Most make the trek to this region because it offers, arguably,
the most diverse and numerous animal populations on the
continent.
The first-time safari experience often far surpasses most
travelers' expectations. Therein lies the challenge in a return
visit: How can it possibly compare?
It did not take me long to realize the appeal of a repeat
trip.
On my first day I observed a mother cheetah interacting with her
young, without viewing it through a camera lens. In a Masai
village, I played with the children and felt a little more
comfortable practicing my rough Swahili.
On my first trip, I was so overwhelmed by my proximity to the
animals that I was obsessed with making every moment a Kodak one.
On this trip I took fewer pictures (I shot 34 rolls on my first),
asked more questions and got a more in-depth feel for the country
-- Kenya -- and its inhabitants.
For travelers looking to make a repeat visit, it's wise to
choose the opposite season from the original trip.
Kenya, I soon learned, has two very distinct faces, depending on
the time of year.
My original visit was during the rainy season (March to May and
October to December), and I had never seen so many different shades
of green. This visit took place in the dry season, and the land
looked vastly different. Golden brown grass stretched out across
the savannah, camouflaging impala and gazelle.
Like the topography, animal viewing is distinct, depending on
the season.
In the wet season there's ample food and water available, so the
animals are spread out across the game reserves. Therefore, the
safari vehicles might cover a lot of ground in search of them.
In the dry season, especially toward the end, which was when I
visited, it's easier to spot the animals because they cluster
around the few remaining watering holes and salt licks.
It is not uncommon to see elephant, rhino, zebra and giraffe
within a short distance of each other. In addition to the animal
viewing, one reason I wanted to return to East Africa was to
explore new regions.
Micato's Hemingway itinerary was ideal because it included visits
to the northern, central and southern parts of Kenya. Although the
regions visited were spread apart, the trip was made manageable by
charter flights between destinations.
Flying between game parks is recommended over driving because
the roads in East Africa are notoriously bad. While most flights
are about 30 minutes, road trips can be upward of three hours.
One of the few places we drove to was Samburu National Park,
located in the north. It was worth the roller coaster ride, though,
because I saw three species of animals unique to the region: the
reticulated giraffe, the Grevy's zebra and the gerenuk (known as
the "giraffe antelope" because of its long neck).
Of the parks we visited, Samburu was a favorite. The abundance
of animals, the lack of tourists and the friendliness of the people
made it a great stop on the safari trail.
The Masai Mara, the most famous and visited park in Kenya, is
another highlight of the Hemingway itinerary. At this time of the
year, the wildebeest were making their annual migration back to the
Serengeti.
As a first-time visitor to this park, I was surprised to witness
the familiar scene from National Geographic specials: the
wildebeest en masse, plunging into the crocodile-infested Mara
River, hoping to avoid being trampled or eaten on their swim to the
other side.
Although I had seen the migration in Tanzania, the Mara River
crossing was much more intense and animated. The experience was
completely different in the two countries.
Micato Safaris, a family-owned and -run operator based in Kenya,
gets about 20% to 25% of its business from repeat clients.
Micato works at making the safari experience a memorable one.
For instance, we returned to our rooms each night after a hot and
dusty day to find little gifts on our pillows.
Also, the guides and drivers were knowledgeable, friendly and
approachable. Raymond, our guide, and Fayez, one of our drivers,
were among the individuals who went beyond the call of duty.
In one instance, Raymond organized and accompanied me on a
last-minute tour of a Samburu village when I expressed an interest
in it. Fayez, at his own cost, provided animal reference books and
camera-propping beanbags in his vehicle.
On the last night of the trip, we had a cocktail reception in
the bush. The African sky was bursting with stars, and elephants
could be heard trumpeting in the distance. Two warthogs joined our
party to complete the picture.
East Africa, I concluded, was even better the second time
around.
Prices for the Hemingway Safari start at $3,180 plus air fare.
Commission is 10%.
Micato Safaris
Phone: (800) 642-2861
Fax: (212) 545-8297