Tracking Lewis and Clark: 2003 is only the start: Travel Weekly

Tracking Lewis and Clark: 2003 is only the start

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GREAT FALLS, Mont. -- The bicentennial of the Lewis and Clark Expedition provides tourists the occasion for adventure and discovery in America's West.

Commemorative events began at Thomas Jefferson's Virginia home Monticello in January on the anniversary of his request for money to fund the trip, but because the expedition did not end until September 1806 -- and because it stretched from the St. Louis area to the Pacific -- countless observances are scheduled for points across the U.S. for the next three years.

Given that about a quarter of the expedition's 28-month travel time was spent in Montana, the state is in the forefront of planning and promoting the commemorations.

The St. Louis-based National Council of the Lewis and Clark Bicentennial designated 15 "signature events" in 13 states as the premier commemorative festivities, based on the sites' historical relevance, location and tribal involvement, among other factors.

This year sees only two: Aside from the January event, the second is set for Oct. 14 to 26 to recall the 1803 rendezvous of Lewis and Clark in Louisville, Ky., and their departure from Clarksville, Ind.

All other premier events are set for 2004 through 2006, following the chronology of the expedition itself, which set off on May 14, 1804.

Two events are set for Montana: Clark on the Yellowstone, which will take place July 22 to 25, 2006, in and around Billings, and the longest premier event, Explore the Big Sky, set for June 1 to July 4, 2005, in Great Falls and nearby Fort Benton.

A statue in Great Falls depicts Lewis and Clark with a dog and York, their traveling companion for part of their journey. Besides recalling the expedition through lectures, exhibits, reenactments and hands-on events, Explore the Big Sky will focus heavily on Plains Indian culture.

Visitors will explore a traditional village and cultural displays presented by Montana tribes. The schedule also includes the International Traditional Indian Games and the premiere of an opera telling the story of Scarface, a legend in the Blackfeet culture.

There will be commissionable package tours offered for regular events as well as options built around Montana signature events; local travel agents are getting into the act, too.

The extended Great Falls commemoration reflects the fact the expedition spent about six weeks in the area, largely because members had to haul boats and supplies overland to bypass a series of five cascades that impended their progress up the Missouri.

Great Falls already was seen as a focal point for things Lewis-and-Clark-related in 1988, when Congress established the Lewis and Clark National Historic Trail Interpretive Center and funded half the $6 million cost. Sitting on the banks of the Missouri, the Great Falls facility opened in May 1998.

In 1989, the annual Lewis and Clark Festival was born here; the five-day event is set for June 23 to 27. During the longer, bicentennial signature event in 2005, the festival will occur June 22 to 26.

In anticipation of bigger things, I sampled the center and the festival this summer. The interpretive facility (admission is $5 per adult) is a top-notch way to "see" the Old West.

At the center, visitors follow a path lined with exhibits that tell the Lewis and Clark story chronologically. Even the "trail" underfoot tells a story, with blue or brown carpeting to indicate the changing modes of travel.

Much of the story is laid out in interactive fashion, so visitors can, for example, pull a "canoe" to test their towing capacity; attempt to bridle a horse with materials available to Plains Indians; or feel the weight of an infant in a cradleboard (as did Sacagawea).

The centerpiece of the 6,000-square-foot exhibit is a two-story diorama of life-size men pulling a canoe up a cliff beside the river's waterfalls.

The facility also is the setting for numerous activities related to the expedition. I attended a session in which the speaker described and invited listeners to try their hand with the code Lewis and Clark used to protect sensitive materials in missives sent to President Jefferson.

The annual Lewis and Clark Festival includes free access to a Lewis and Clark encampment, at which reenactors play the parts of expedition members while taking no notice of visitors; demonstrations of the skills needed for the journey; and a Plains Indian encampment, where modern Native Americans mix lessons on 19th century and 21th century Indian life.

Skills demonstrations included navigation, weapons care, medicine, boat building and skinning a beaver. We were assured no one killed a beaver just for this; a carcass was saved for the occasion.

Attendees also could visit tepees, listen to Indian storytellers or see demonstrations of traditional dancing.

Remembering that the expedition primarily was a river trip, events also included "float" trips on the Missouri, at $15.

Another $15 let us attend Camp Cooking With the Corp, a meal event at the interpretive center offering samples of foods mentioned in the explorers' journals.

The buffalo in bacon and the sausage made with buffalo were edible and the smoked salmon was familiar and tasty, but the hard tack, boiled yucca root and pickled, prickly pear pods were awful. I finished the evening amused, better educated -- and hungry.

To contact Nadine Godwin, send e-mail to [email protected].

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