There are many ways to describe Istanbul: exotic, teeming with life, a tourist mecca, a business city, an amazing historical city. Turkey's largest city, which straddles Europe and Asia on opposite sides of one of the busiest waterways in the world, the Bosporus, is perfect for a visit all on its own, as a pre- or post-cruise hotel stay or entree to other cities in Turkey. It's a city to walk around wide-eyed, taking in all of the sights and sounds.
Even if one has a few days there, there's no way to fit it all in. But here are some of the key places to see and things to do.
Magnificent monuments
In the Sultanahmet region south of the Galata Bridge are the Blue Mosque, which dates from the early 1600s and is known for the quantity of blue Iznik tiles, and the Hagia Sophia, which has endured for more than a thousand years, serving under Byzantine and Ottoman sultans. The two are very close to each other, but it pays to check in advance for the days and hours when open to the public. Avoid the lines by tapping the services of one of the many local guides, who are pretty inexpensive (about $20 to $25 per person for the first hour); however, you're likely to be asked to visit their "family store to look at rugs." Right nearby is the Basilica Cistern, with its theatrically lit underground pools and hundreds of marble columns.
Ottoman palaces
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Virtually adjacent to the the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia is the Topkapi Palace, the center of Ottoman rule for more than five centuries. Its Treasury Room contains massive amounts of diamond, rubies, pearls and more. A little farther away but right on the Bosporus is the more modern Dolmabahce Palace, built when Ottoman sultans were trying to emulate the Western world.
Shopping spree
Quite possibly the most famous shopping mall in the world is the Grand Bazaar, with over 4,000 small shops crammed in side by side. The crowds are extreme, but it's so worth a visit. I'm not sure I'd recommend buying anything remotely expensive without verifying its origin (many of the items are no longer made locally) but sitting down and bargaining for something over a cup of tea is simply part of the fun. I prefer the Spice Bazaar, right at the southern end of the Galata Bridge. It's smaller, less frenetic and, as the name implies, full of an astonishing array of wonderfully fragrant spices. And shops will heat-seal any spices purchased for travel.
The Galata Bridge
The Galata Bridge is a must for a walk, either on the top car/tram level to see the local fishermen or the lower level, right above the Bosporus waterline, where restaurant after restaurant offers the greatest food. North of the bridge in a bustling area is the lower end of the Tunel, an underground funicular that opened in 1875 (making it the second-oldest such structure in the world). For a modest fee (about 2 euros per person each way), it takes people from the bridge area to the southern end of Istiklal Street, a 2-mile-long, open-air shopping and restaurant area, heading up to the large, well-known Taksim Square. Let's face it; it's a pedestrian shopping stretch and skippable if time is short. Visitors should head instead to the Galata Tower (the current version was built in the 14th century), a reasonable uphill walk from the bridge, to take the elevator to the top for the outside 360-degree views.
Dining tips
For outstanding local seafood and other items, here are two suggestions: just north of the Galata Bridge on the upper floor of the Hotel Hettie is Galatali Batik with great food and stunning views of the Bosporus; on the bridge itself is Sirena with scrumptious food, including my favorite, grilled calamari, and views of all the traffic on the waterway.
A quick stop at any spot in the city to sample a bit of local flavor — a coffee or an Efes, a terrific Turkish beer — is a worthwhile endeavor.
Istanbul can be a bit overwhelming due to its size and massive population. But with the usual big-city cautions, I find it quite safe and a joy to experience. Many of the top spots to visit are in a relatively walkable small area, and taxis to farther-flung locales (including a visit to the city's Asian side) are ever-present and quite reasonable; tourists just need to make sure the meter is turned on so drivers don't try to take advantage. The Big Bus Tour with earphone narration in multiple languages is a great hop-on, hop-off way to see the main highlights.
For customized transfers and touring, check out ITS at www.itstourism.com. The official Turkey tourism portal is www.goturkey.com.
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CORRECTION: A previous version of this article described the Hagia Sophia as a mosque. The Hagia Sophia was constructed as a church, served as a mosque from the 15th to early 20th centuries and was converted into a museum in 1935.