Excursion tips for Celebrity cruisers

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MIAMI -- The following are tips on several excursions Celebrity Cruises offered on its first season of five-day cruises of the western Caribbean onboard the Zenith:

No one tells you this in advance, but your dolphin swim in Puerto Aventuras (Cozumel) will be memorialized by a professional photographer whose fee is not included in the price of $145 per person.

Bring cash or a credit card because youll want photos of that dolphins kiss, and your Celebrity SeaPass account card will not be accepted.

The price per photo ranges from $7.50 to $22.50. Videos of the experience are also for sale and are shown to participants after they come out of the water.

A break on the Beach Break

Also in Cozumel, those who want a beach break will have two choices, both at Playa Mia Grand Beach Park.

The Playa Mia Beach Break costs $28 for adults and $18 for kids. The Deluxe Beach Break is $62 for adults, $54 for kids. Both include an open bar and use of the beach and watercraft, including kayaks. The difference between the two: The deluxe plan provides shuttle transportation and a free buffet lunch; the cheaper plan does not.

The Deluxe Beach Break was not worth $62. The buffet wasnt muy bueno; there wasnt enough time to try out the watercraft (didnt see anyone else plying the waters, either); the molded plastic lounge chairs on the sand were uncomfortable; and, as far as the open bar goes, my husband drinks soda and for the life of me I couldnt make up the difference in pina coladas. It gnawed at me that I probably was paying for someone elses beer binge.

Heres a thought: Get a group together and take a cab to the beach. The taxi fare is $12 each way for up to four persons. Inexpensive snacks are available at the beach.

What was worth noting: The rest rooms were magnifico. Clean as home. And there were changing rooms, a shower and storage lockers.

Segue onto a Segway

I much preferred Chankanaab National Park, which we had visited on an earlier cruise. It has a beautiful man-made beach; botanical gardens with Mayan, Toltec and Aztec sculptures scattered throughout; beachfront bars and restaurants; snorkeling, scuba and snuba opportunities; and changing facilities. The park is also home to a swim-with-the-dolphins experience.

A visit to Chankanaab is offered on this cruise as part of the Segway Adventure ($89 per person). The Segway is a self-balancing electric scooter and a means of transportation to the park. Guests receive a coupon for a taxi ride home.

If you go on your own, it costs about $12 per person to get in, and a cab from the pier is about $10 each way. Lounge chairs and palapas (thatched umbrellas) are for rent only. The park is open from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m.

Cozumel, after the storms

For those who want to know the status of Cozumel after Hurricane Wilma, I can report this: The locals are working hard at rebuilding and appear to have come a long way. Although I didnt visit the shopping area, passengers who had been there on a cruise prior to Hurricane Wilma and returned for a look said the shops were open. 

The new pier built by the cruise lines was gone. One pier, inadequate for even a small ship, was the only one standing. Passengers had to tender into port. The destruction was evident along the coastal road, and the reconstruction seemed to begin at the point where the tenders arrive and then progress outward from there.

Fishing at Key West

In Key West, Fla., where during the 1930s Ernest Hemingway fished, wrote and drank, Celebrity commissions C&T Tours to run a three-hour World Class Light Tackle Fishing Excursion ($139 per person, minimum age 7).

It comes with gear, bait and beverages; a 25-foot, center-console fishing boat; and a captain who baits your hook, unhooks your fish and throws it back. All you need to do is fish.

That was my problem: I dont like to fish. But my husband does, so there I was, with my old man in the sea, reading the New York Times when I could have been checking out Duval Street and Mallory Square.

I have to say, though, that this is an exhilarating experience for those who like the sport. The gray reef sharks and the amberjack put up a good fight, and, apparently, thats the whole point of fishing.

The grouper gives a fight, too, to get back to its hole in the reef. Not like the snapper, which will run, according to our captain, Craig Hall.

But heres a flash: The grouper, one of the finest-tasting fish in the sea, according to Hall, is gone. Thats right, gone. Two hurricanes back-to-back and the groupers, who lived in these waters year-round, picked up and left, he said.

Fish run seasonally: Winter through May, its tarpon; spring through summer, its mahimahi; and fall through winter, its cobia and amberjack, Hall said.

The boat, the Grouper Trouper (I guess it will have to change its name), holds up to six passengers plus the captain. Four is minimum for an excursion.

Sometimes 20 or 30 people [sign up to] fish, then theyll call in other operators boats, Hall said.

C&T owners Carrie and Tom Johnson of Key West own two fishing boats and two sailboats. Noncruise visitors to Key West can reach them at (305) 293-8812 or by e-mail at [email protected].

There were five of us on this excursion. Everyone who fished caught something. The catches that drew the most attention were the gray reef sharks.

For my part, I was able to report to our dinner companions from Windsor, Ontario, that Canadas conservative party was winning their national election and that Ford Motor Co. was closing down its foundry in their city, which lies just across the Ambassador Bridge from Detroit.

Then I put my New York Times on a wet seat and used it to keep my behind dry.

Costa Maya: The next Cancun?

In Costa Maya, which some people say will be the next Cancun, lovely pools and sandy beach with hammocks and lounge chairs lie spread out at the end of the pier.

Beyond that area, which was built for cruise passengers, is a tiny village of wonderful shops.

Once you leave the tourist area, however, you encounter the other side of Costa Maya, scattered homesteads with nothing more than shed-like structures to serve as living quarters for entire families.

As we rode in our air-conditioned bus toward the blue waters of out-of-the-way Bacalar Lagoon, site of the Xspeed Boat Xcursion ($96 per person), we passed military checkpoints set up to catch drug dealers who arrive by boat. The armed soldiers do not stop tourist buses, Victor, our guide, reassured us.

Victor rescued us from a dismal ride with his fine humor presented in perfect English. Everyone, except the Mayans, wants to learn English to get into the tourist trade, Victor said. Its the future.

Victors father, who was a fisherman, has become a fly-fishing instructor for the cruise lines. His brother is going away to college to study hotel management.

I say, Viva Costa Maya!

Xspeed Boat Xcursion

On the Xspeed Boat Xcursion, one passenger and a companion hop into a 10-foot launch, and then its full-throttle all the way. Speedboat drivers -- a valid automobile drivers license is required -- are asked to stay 45 feet behind the boat in front of them.

The day of my particular Xspeed Boat Xcursion, there were six boats in the water plus the guide boat. Midway, the guide boat stopped to give the passengers a chance to drive.

The ride, which consists of a series of S curves, can get pretty bumpy, and the passengers can get very wet.

Heres a tip: Find the wake of the boat ahead of you (its that elusive ribbon of calm inside the sea of waves the guide has created to amuse you) and follow along for smooth sailing.

After the boat ride, guests are treated to a Mexican buffet under a Mayan palapa.

The Xspeed Boat Xcursion is run by Pelicanos Tours, which operates a number of adventure excursions in Costa Maya and Cozumel.

Noncruise travelers to the region can visit www.pelicanostours.com.mx for more information or to book. The company pays commissions to travel agents who book noncruise clients on their excursions.

To contact Managing editor/Supplements Margaret Myre, send e-mail to [email protected].

Get More!

For more details on this article, see:

" Boomers are No. 1, but Celebrity seeks young cruisers, too

" Zenith shows good things come in small packages

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