When the Palm Springs Riviera Hotel opened in the California desert city in 1959, it set a standard for midcentury construction. Architect Irwin Schuman modeled the property after fashionable Las Vegas hotels such as the Sands, the Flamingo and the Stardust, but with a twist: The Riviera became the first hotel in the U.S. to employ a wheel-and-spoke layout.
That is, two-story accommodations structures radiated out from a centerpiece swimming pool like spokes on a wheel. The communal nature of the groundbreaking design quickly gained favor with the Hollywood set. The "spokes" allowed for intimate retreats, while the central hub -- with pool, restaurant, bar and showroom -- meshed perfectly with the swinging attitude of the 1960s.
Before long, Frank Sinatra, Dean Martin and Sammy Davis Jr. were poolside regulars. The Mediterranean Room hosted performers such as Bob Hope, Raquel Welch and Count Basie.
But the buzz eventually waned, and the Riviera shrank from the limelight. Speculation festered about its fate. Then, in 2006, Seattle-based boutique hotel firm Noble House Management gained control of the property and embarked upon a two-year, $70 million renovation of the hotel.
Any fears purists held were laid to rest this past fall when the dazzling Palm Springs Riviera Resort & Spa opened its doors. In a town with its fair share of dubious face-lifts, this was one nip/tuck that had come off swimmingly.
Retro chic rules
Designers remained true to the Riviera's midcentury vibe. They preserved the facade and wheel-and-spoke layout, and the decor is decidedly retro. Noble House dubbed the new look "Hollywood glam with a twist."
This translates into a lobby and bar bathed in blazing orange-red light with rich brown flooring, accented with circular, white lounges; twisted-metal chandeliers; candelabras cut from mirrored glass; and white latticework walls.
A sprawling, amoeba-shaped pool, surrounded by green lawns, remains the centerpiece of the resort and dutifully upholds the communal intentions set forth in Schuman's original design. Replete with cotton-white cabanas and daybeds, overstuffed lounge chairs, cozy fire pits and white-sand islands, one can easily imagine today's Hollywood set holding court here on weekends.
The Riviera has 406 guestrooms, including 45 suites ranging from 580 to 1,700 square feet. Beds are comfortable and topped with overstuffed white duvets. Large windows open to a patio or balcony overlooking Palm Springs' famous mountain views. Sliding doors part to reveal an expansive, marble-clad bathroom, complete with double sinks, a walk-in shower and an oversize bathtub.
Two-story suites face the pool and include sitting rooms, kitchenette/bar/dining areas, second-floor bedrooms, Jacuzzis and private fire pits.
Dining and relaxing
The Riviera's signature restaurant, Circa 59, overlooks the pool and offers classic surf-and-turf fare such as lobster bisque, oysters Rockefeller and cowboy ribeyes.
Sidebar, the adjoining cocktail bar, offers a throwback cocktail menu with classics like the Sazerac, the Hemingway daiquiri and the Manhattan.
The former Mediterranean Room is now the 11,000-square-foot SpaTerre, an Asian-themed respite whose signature treatments include the Balinese Massage, the Volcanic Earth Clay Ritual and Cleopatra's Milk Ritual. The star of SpaTerre, however, is the central Buddha Lounge, a gorgeous, hand-tiled room containing waterfalls, a Jacuzzi and a Watsu pool.
Room rates range from $109 to $359 per night, double. Visit www.psriviera.com.