During my first meal at Explora Valle Sagrado, a lodge in Peru's Sacred Valley of the Incas, a server set down a plate of purple-hued, crusty bread.
"Blue corn," he said, before gesturing to the cornfields just through the window. "We grow the corn right out there."
Before I was finished with the meal, I'd been presented with an array of dips and compound butters for breads, crackers and puffs -- all made in-house -- in addition to salads with local heirloom tomatoes and a mix of Peruvian and international dishes, all prepared with a focus on the best available produce from the valley.
And that was just lunch.
Suites at the Explora Valle Sagrado are plush in a minimalist design. Photo Credit: Explora
It's easy to eat well at Explora Valle Sagrado, which is operated by Chilean ecolodge and adventure travel company Explora, a certified B-Corp operator (not to be confused with the unaffiliated cruise line, Explora Journeys). And eating well is essential to fuel clients for excursions at the valley's eye-popping elevation: 9,514 feet above sea level.
The lodge operates on an all-inclusive model, with food, beverages and excursions included in the rate aside from some premium options, for which a supplemental fee applies.
Touring at high altitude
The first evening of my stay, I sat down with a guide to map out how I wanted to spend my week. I knew I wanted to see Machu Picchu -- this full-day excursion must be booked in advance and exists outside the all-inclusive model -- but I was otherwise open. Offered excursions are presented in a handy matrix, with choices for full- or half-day tours at varying levels of difficulty, with options for bus tours with some walking, hiking or e-bike trips.
An alpaca in the village of Chinchero. Photo Credit: Scott Laird
Explora's guides have an expert handle on the amount of walking and elevation gain, and the adventures are also sorted by what elevation zones they take place in (the highest zones -- as high as 15,000 feet -- are booked for later in the clients' stay, after guests have become more acclimated to the altitude). Personally, I'm terribly affected at high elevations, but my guide knew exactly how to plan for it and pointed out that Machu Picchu is actually quite a bit lower in elevation than the lodge.
I started my stay with the easiest excursion, to the terraced ruins near the Peruvian village of Pisac, where I visited a fruit and craft market. After returning to the resort for lunch, I spent the afternoon touring the distinctive circular terraces of Moray and the nearby salt mines at Salineras, where the geometric basins crowd the bottom of a narrow valley and vendors sell the pink salt for which the site is renowned for what seemed like a pittance.
Tours are conducted in groups of no larger than eight guests, and clients who want private tours can arrange them for an additional cost. Explora has its own fleet of sprinter vans stocked with snacks and drinks for trips around the valley, and excursion team guides accompany travelers on every trip.
A weaver demonstrates centuries-old techniques for dyeing alpaca wool. Photo Credit: Scott Laird
After each excursion, I realized I couldn't stop smiling. Whether lulled by the dreamlike scenic landscapes, frequent llama sightings, charming and knowledgeable guides or altitude mania -- it didn't seem to matter why.
The next day, my guide and I set off to the village of Chinchero. At more than 12,000 feet, this was the highest elevation spot on my visit.
After meeting a pair of llamas in the alley, I sat in a small courtyard textile mill for a demonstration of traditional weaving from a village resident in traditional dress complete with a wide-brimmed red montera hat. Even for my group of one, she enthusiastically demonstrated how to pick cochinilla insects out of the prickly pear cacti and crush them to make a bright carmine red dye and how to wash, full and spin yarn from alpaca wool.
Exploring the lodge
I also recommend that guests reserve an afternoon just to enjoy the resort.
The Explora Valle Sagrado's spa lies within a 17th century manor house. Photo Credit: Scott Laird
I took the short walk through the rustling cornfields to the adjacent Pumacahua Bath House, which is located within a restored 17th century manor house. I wandered through the courtyards of the house to find the outdoor pool and jetted tubs, with loungers and a fridge stocked with complimentary beverages, all nestled in a garden of local botanicals and carefully signposted for guest education.
My comfortable suite was accented by natural wood and stone tile, with dual vanities and a jetted tub in a corner next to a window that opened onto the cornfields, perfect for relaxing with the sounds of birdsong. There's also a separate rainfall shower in its own enclosure on the other side of the bathroom.
Add to this an incredibly plush, comfy bed for wearing off the travails of a high-altitude day and a sampling of local teas made from Andean mint or coca leaf (yes, the same coca leaf that's illegal to take back to the U.S., which sells in bulk in the local markets).
The resort is carefully curated for relaxation in an eco-conscious manner. Instead of a kettle, jugs of hot water are placed in the room throughout the day for tea, and guests are given a refillable water bottle to keep and replenish at the water stations around the resort. The gift shop focuses on well-priced, locally made products (a brightly colored, crocheted llama wearing a knit cap and big wire-rimmed Harry Potter spectacles spoke to me).
A fantastic farewell
Salt mines at Salineras. Photo Credit: Scott Laird
My excursion to Machu Picchu was saved for the last day of my visit, and it turned out to be a fitting denouement to the week: My Explora guide accompanied me the whole way, providing insights on the train and throughout our hike.
I watched the flora change as the return train climbed back to higher elevations, and I felt a familiar smile spread across my face.
I wasn't looking forward to leaving the next afternoon, but I was looking forward to just one more plate of the blue cornbread I knew was waiting for me back at the resort.