Bermuda used to be a destination for the cruise industry's smaller ships. And the island nation would not have wanted it any other way.

Until recently, Bermuda's efforts to prevent overcrowding meant that large cruise ships were rarely allowed to call there. While the island still caps its cruise passenger intake at 9,000 per day, it has reluctantly accepted that as the industry's vessels get larger and larger, those are the ships that Bermuda will get.

"They are taking these older, smaller ships and selling them off or redeploying them to Europe," said Larry Jacobs, Bermuda's transportation coordinator. "As a result, most ships in our neck of the woods are larger ships."

At this point, Bermuda will take them. While a record number of cruises called in Bermuda this past summer, in 2008 Bermuda will see a marked slowdown in cruise traffic.

Celebrity Cruises, which has been calling in the islands since 1990, will not return to Bermuda in 2008. Royal Caribbean International's Empress of the Seas is transferring to Madrid-based Pullmantur Cruises in March.

The decline comes after many years of growth. In 2004, Bermuda had 156 cruise ship visits; in 2006 it had 198. But in 2008, the island will get an expected 135 cruise calls. In 2009, that number will increase slightly, to 140 calls.    

While the numbers have declined, Jacobs pointed out that in both 2008 and 2009 the ships will, on average, stay longer than in years past, when some ships would stop for one day.

Plus, bigger ships means a larger number of passengers per vessel.

The growth in 2009 will result from the island's recent 10-year agreement with Norwegian Cruise Line to deploy two NCL ships to the islands beginning in 2009, sailing at least 22 cruises per season, primarily from Boston and New York.

The 2,000-passenger Norwegian Spirit will sail from Boston on Fridays, staying in Bermuda until Wednesdays. The 2,200-passenger Norwegian Dawn will leave New York on Sundays, calling in Bermuda Wednesdays through Fridays. The 1,468-passenger Norwegian Majesty will sail to St. George's, Bermuda, from Charleston, S.C.; Philadelphia; and Baltimore.

Because Bermuda is not near any other ports of call, cruise ships that sail to Bermuda tend to stay there for a few days. In negotiating contracts with cruise lines, Bermuda is always on the lookout for ways that the cruise lines can encourage visitors to spend money, such as partnership opportunities with the island's chamber of commerce and tourism department.  

"In order to get these berths -- and these are pretty desirable berths -- and as more cruise lines wish to fill these berths, we strike a deal and say, 'OK, if you want that berth, then here is what we expect in return,' " Jacobs said. 

NCL said it would partner with Bermuda's tourism department to become a sponsor of the annual Bermuda Music Festival, support various foundations and develop a program to encourage its guests to dine ashore by giving them vouchers for participating restaurants. 

Bermuda's premier, Ewart Brown, said in a statement regarding the deal, "This proves once again that major players in the global tourism industry are bullish on Bermuda, and they are bullish for the long term."

Celebrity, meanwhile, is still negotiating for a berth for a big ship, having redeployed the smaller vessels that previously served the market. 

Dan Hanrahan, president of Celebrity, said in early August that he wanted to continue sailing to Bermuda with one of Celebrity's larger vessels but said that Bermuda won't let the ships dock in Hamilton.

Hanrahan said that he didn't want to go to King's Wharf in Dockyard, the island's docking facility on the West End, where ships longer than 700 feet must berth.

Hanrahan was firm: No Hamilton, no Bermuda.

But Bermuda is firm on this issue, as well. Jacobs said in an interview that Bermuda was not physically able to bring such large ships into its main towns, and it was not willing to dredge the area's channels in order to accommodate them.

"We could widen the approaches, but for environmental reasons and good development and planning reasons, we did not wish to do that," Jacobs explained.

"We wish to redevelop the waterfront in both St. George's and Hamilton into first-class waterfront experiences. So long as you have ships tied up the full length of Front Street in Hamilton, you can't really do that.

"[Celebrity] said, 'We're not interested in Dockyards, we're interested in St. George's and Hamilton,' " Jacobs continued. "We are still in negotiations with them, but we said we'll find another cruise line that is interested in Dockyard."

Dockyard currently has one pier, but a second berth is under construction.

Dockyard has six high-speed catamarans that hold 350 guests each to ferry guests to St. George's and Hamilton, a half-hour and 15-minute ride, respectively. Both the Norwegian Spirit and Dawn will berth at Dockyard, while a smaller ship, the 675-foot Norwegian Majesty, will be able to berth in St. George's.

Dockyard, which Jacobs admits used to be remote and had little to do, is now full of activities with more being planned, he said. The area has bars, restaurants, and a man-made beach area with a snorkel park.

"There is a lot of improvement going into Dockyard areas," he said, adding that most of Bermuda, which consists of only 21 miles of land, doesn't have room for further development.

"Dockyards has the space to do it. There is a lot of land that can be developed into a first-class tourism experience."

Jacobs said that due to the direction of shipbuilding and deployment, Bermuda had no other choice for accommodating megaships.

"That's the direction we're going simply because the ships are larger. If someone wishes to bring a smaller ship to Bermuda, Hamilton and St. George will be available for that."

To contact reporter Johanna Jainchill, send e-mail to [email protected].

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