All Splendor, No Crowds at Grand Canyon's North Rim

Crossroads' associate editor Judy Koutsky is on a weeklong tour of national parks, starting at the Grand Canyon and extending through several parks in Utah. She will be chronicling her adventures with daily travelogues and photos. Her first installment follows:

KANAB, Utah -- Imagine a world-renowned national park that welcomes millions of visitors each a year. Imagine visiting said park in the height of high season. What comes to mind? Tour buses and minivans stretched across the horizon? People from all over the world at every scenic lookout point? In a word, crowds?

Now imagine visiting that same national park during that same time of year and encountering, at most, half a dozen cars at the entrance. The hiking paths and trailways are all but desolate. At the lookout points, it could take up to five minutes for another tourist to come by so you could ask him to snap your picture. Here, one feels alone, and the cliche "one with nature" suddenly rings true. Welcome to the Grand Canyon North Rim.

Although the Grand Canyon as a whole receives 5 million visitors annually, the North Rim receives only one-tenth of that. "We're isolated up here," a woman at the visitor's center said. "We don't get the day traffic like the South Rim, and so it's much more pristine. Don't question it, just enjoy it." When I told her I was a writer for a travel Web site, she looked slightly worried. "I don't know if we should let the secret of the North out."

Secret indeed. We had the Canyon to ourselves. We could talk to the forest ranger or information guide for as long as we wanted because nobody else was in line. We hiked the trails at our own pace since no kids were rushing by followed by parents yelling at them to slow down. We lingered over the Canyon's beauty from every lookout without fear of hogging the view. The quiet allowed us to spot many deer, which didn't seem frightened or alarmed by our presence. When we did encounter that rare other hiker, both parties stopped to share vital information (deer sightings, scenic vistas ahead, chit-chat about the nice weather) and to trade cameras for photo ops. Everybody seemed so friendly, perhaps because in these beautiful quiet surroundings, there was more than enough for all of us.

The first day of the Canyon was spent checking out some of the lookout points. We drove up to Point Imperial and Cape Royal and took in the depth of the Canyon. After going through a roll of film in about 20 minutes, we did a bit of hiking before heading back, by car, to our bed-and-breakfast an hour-and-a-half away in Kanab. (Despite the lack of crowds, reservations for the Grand Canyon Lodge need to be made between six months to two years in advance, depending on the type of cabin. Because I planned this trip three weeks in advance, the closest lodge with openings was Kanab.)

The next morning, we were on the road at 8 a.m. hoping to get in some of the longer trails before noon. Once in the park, visitors are greeted by winding roads looping through hundreds of Ponderosa pine trees. My eyes darted across the dense arbor, hoping to catch a glimpse of the red canyon. After 20 minutes of this, I was beginning to think I missed a turn. (The ranger said one of the differences between the North and South rims is that the North has so much foliage, while the south is almost barren. He added that the North is without a McDonald's.)

Just when I was about to turn around, I saw signage for the Widforss Trail. This trail, recommended by the visitor center, offers a gratifying combination of forest and canyon. Hikers bore through the wooded trail and suddenly happen upon a gorgeous view of the canyon. The trail is a six-hour roundtrip hike, but most people just go in for an hour or two (we went in for 90 minutes). After guzzling our two liters of water (the park recommends drinking 8 oz. every fifteen minutes) and taking picture after picture of the canyon, we headed back to the lodge for lunch. The Grand Canyon Lodge boasts a snack bar and the Grand Canyon Lodge Restaurant.

After lunch we headed out for Bright Angel Point, where some the best views of the canyon can be seen. This trail, about 30 minutes roundtrip, juts out into the canyon, allowing views from both sides. At the very tip, hikers can climb up the rocks to get a fantastic view and a feeling of omnipotence. Save some film -- a panoramic shot of the canyon is obligatory here.

We then headed back to catch our mule rides. The half-day ride, run by Grand Canyon Trail Rides, took us down the North Kaibab Trail to the Supai Tunnel. Along the way down, we again were treated to deer sightings and awesome views, while learning some history of the canyon. Our mule guide, looking like he just stepped out of a Western movie, told jokes and stories to keep us from being fearful (the mules walk right on the very edge of the cliff). At the bottom of Supai Tunnel, we had a 45-minute break to do a bit more hiking before heading up. He entertained all of our requests for photo ops on the mule. He even did mule windsurfing (riding while standing on top of the saddle) to keep us from focusing on our increasingly sore bottoms. The group, a cozy eight, got along quite well.

The day was capped by seeing the sunset over the canyon while eating at the Grand Canyon Lodge. (Reservations are recommended; we made ours the previous night.)

Just the Facts...

The last two nights in Kanab we've stayed at Nine Gables Inn. This bed-and-breakfast run by Frank and Jeanne Bantlin is beautifully furnished with a combination of antiques (including a cast-iron stove and old fashion secretary desk)and comfortable furniture (soft couches and well worn rocking chairs). Frank and Jeanne are hospitable and amicable. A stay here is like staying being taken care of by a favorite aunt. Rates are from $70 to $80. Nine Gables Inn, 106 W. 100 North, Kanab, Utah 84741.(435) 644-5079.

Part One: The Grand Canyon's North Rim.
Part Two: Lake Powell
Part Three: Bryce Canyon/Kodachrome
Part Four: More Bryce Canyon
Part Five: Zion National Park/Lake Mead