Nevis low on glitz, high on history and culture: Travel Weekly

CHARLESTOWN, Nevis -- From the front porch of the Blue Cottage, circa 1640, I could just see the pool behind a small rise near the doghouse.

From the upstairs screened-in veranda, I watched green vervet monkeys clamoring for mangos in the trees.

I was at the Hermitage Plantation Inn in the town of Figtree in the parish (county) of St. John in the Gingerland district of Nevis, staring out at lush foliage and listening to bird calls.

There was not an ocean wave within sight or sound, and it suited me just fine.

Usually, beach views and beach access dictate my lodging preferences in the Caribbean, so this was a radical departure from my standard operating procedure.

Later, of course, I did see the beach, several beaches in fact, plus botanical gardens, other plantation inns and resorts, pots of red Nevis clay at the Newcastle Pottery, thermal springs, Alexander Hamilton's birthplace and a hill called The Flats, a fort, a port, stone churches and ghauts -- deep cuts in the earth that carry rainwater to the sea.

Nevis Peak in the center of the island dominated every view. It soared 3,232 feet, and its peak seemed always smothered in clouds.

My guide warned me the first day never to hike alone on Nevis Peak. The trails are impenetrable and steep, and hikers can easily lose their way. It hadn't been on my activity list anyway, but I was glad for a legitimate excuse.

Nevis is small -- only eight miles long by six miles wide. One main road circles the island, which has yet to install a traffic light or open a movie theater, although Nevisians are quite proud of their four on-island ATM machines.

My visit -- my first, although I cannot figure out why I'd waited so long -- offered a quick peek at a destination that's long attracted nontraditional visitors in search of unique accommodations, historic ruins, good restaurants, local culture, little nightlife and even less glitz.

One hotelier described Nevis as "a place for significant individuals who don't want to be recognized, who are well-traveled and elegant. Nevis is not a place for hotshots."

St. Thomas Anglican Church, the oldest on Nevis, was built in 1643 and still holds Sunday services. Helen Kidd, the CEO of the Nevis Tourism Authority on whose watch visitor numbers have risen significantly -- 12% in 2003 over 2002 -- reported a "significant" first quarter with more than 40,000 land-based visitors, helped in part by the launch in March of American Eagle's daily service from San Juan. (A second daily flight begins July 1, which continues on to Antigua.) Cruise calls also are way up.

"Nevis is ideal for small, luxury cruise lines, and they seem to be discovering that our island is a favorite for their passengers. We anticipated 67 cruise ship calls for all of 2004, but through mid-May, we had 106 calls bringing more than 14,500 passengers," Kidd said.

So, how do these visitors spend their time on Nevis?

Most explore by rental car for a day or two (driving is on the left) before booking a dive, hiking a rain-forest trail or settling in a hammock.

Here's what I did:

• Pinney's Beach is probably Nevis' best-known attraction. Its seven miles form the beachfronts of several resorts, including the Four Seasons, Oualie Beach Hotel, the Cliff Dwellers, Hurricane Cove and the beach clubs for Hermitage Plantation Inn and Montpelier Plantation.

Don't look for the aquamarine waters of the Bahamas or the soft sands of Antigua -- Nevis has grainy sand, some of it volcanic black -- but Pinney's Beach is wide and uncrowded.

Grab a Killer Bee rum punch at Sunshine's beach shack just down from the Four Seasons.

• The eight acres of Nevis' Botanical Gardens sit in the shadow of Nevis Peak. This site has been open only six years but rates high on visitor comment cards for its natural streams, waterfalls, lagoons, fountains, tropical flora, flowers, spiraling blue jade vines and bronze statues.

Allow about an hour for a walk-through; group tours take longer, but Martha's Teahouse upstairs in a plantation-style great house offers sea views and snacks.

• Although Bath Springs and Bath Hotel, which dates to 1778, had damage from storms and neglect over the years, restoration work is under way.

A "relaxing pool" opened in May, where visitors and locals can dip in the hot thermal, therapeutic waters with temperatures ranging from 104 to 108 degrees. Soon to come will be a restaurant, massage huts and changing rooms.

The hotel, once used as a playground by the rich and famous who came to Nevis to dip and dunk in the therapeutic waters, plans to reopen with a cultural center and historic exhibits.

• Charlestown, the waterfront capital, is about as Caribbean quaint as they come, with weathered facades, stone buildings and churches, Victorian fretwork, some shops, schools and the small Museum of Nevis History housed in the birthplace of Alexander Hamilton. The ferry to and from St. Kitts docks right off Main Street.

Try curried lamb, rice and peas at Unella's on the waterfront where locals and boaters hang out.

• Stop at Newcastle Pottery on the north coast. Red clay pots, statues, vases, bowls and bottles are shaped by hand, fired over burning coconut husks and sold at modest prices.

To contact reporter Gay Nagle Myers, send e-mail to [email protected].

• • •

Nevis contacts
• Mount Nevis Hotel and Beach Club, (800) 75-NEVIS, www.mountnevishotel.com.
• Montpelier Plantation Inn, (869) 469-3462, www.montpeliernevis.com.
• Nisbet Plantation, (800) 742-6008, www.nisbetplantation.com.
• Four Seasons Resort Nevis, (800) 332-3442, www.fourseasons.com.
• Botanical Gardens of Nevis, (869) 469-7246, www.botanicalgardennevis.com.
• Newcastle Pottery, (869) 469-1746.
• Nevis Tourism Authority, (866) 55-NEVIS, www.nevisisland.com.

On Nevis, accommodations run the gamut

By Gay Nagle Myers

CHARLESTOWN, Nevis -- Agents have to think outside the box when it comes to recommending accommodations on Nevis. This is not an island of big resorts, save for the Four Seasons, which, with its 179 rooms, 43 villas and 17 suites, "is the engine that drives this island," as one hotelier said.

No hotel can be built higher than a palm tree, but that law doesn't apply to some of the old plantation inns set high in the hills, such as the Hermitage's Victorian-style Main House and its gingerbread cottages or Montpelier's fieldstone great house and its hillside rooms.

Whereas Nisbet Plantation Beach Club combines an 18th-century manor house with yellow Bermuda-style bungalows that line a sweeping lawn leading to the beach, Hurricane Cove's units cling to a cliff overlooking Oualie Beach. Mount Nevis Hotel and Beach Club sits on a former lime plantation.

"Our accommodations are a real mix, which appeals to our guests," said Helen Kidd, CEO of the Nevis Tourism Authority. "Nevis is not just plantation hotels. There is a place here for modern properties, too."

Hotels in Nevis "do not compete head to head because there is such variety. Visitors who come here don't want, nor do they expect to find, the standard fare. There's real pride of property on Nevis," Kidd said.

The Nevis Tourism Authority, based in an historical building in the center of Charlestown, puts out an impressive array of tourist material, and its Web site (www.nevisisland.com) has loads of accommodations information.

Some observations not found in the brochures:

• Hermitage Plantation Inn, where I stayed, is definitely not standard fare. The main house is 300-plus years old -- the oldest surviving wooden house in the Caribbean.

One- and two-story, pastel gingerbread cottages are tucked throughout the gardens and near the pool. Owners Richard and Maureen Lupinacci are gracious, fun hosts who are around much of the time to chat with guests. The small bar in the parlor sets the mood for dinner on the veranda.

One morning, I walked up the road to the plantation's stables and barnyard, photographed horses and goats and had to remind myself that I was in the Caribbean, not at summer camp.

• Four Seasons Resort Nevis opened its spa last year, which "is as popular with men as with women," according to Robert Whitfield, general manager.

The spa is designated as an adults-only facility, which is a relief since much of the resort, particularly during holiday periods, resembles recess time at PS 22.

The redone Grill Room, renamed Neve, opened last fall. A travel agent on a fam trip to the resort came up with the name, which means "snow" in Italian.

It all ties in: In 1493, on his second voyage to the New World, Columbus named the island Nieves, the Spanish word for "snows," because its volcanic peak reminded him of the snow-capped Pyrenees.

• The dining terrace at Mount Nevis Hotel and Beach Club on the island's north end has a dramatic view of St. Kitts and the narrow channel separating the two islands.

If diners are lucky, some of the Meguid family members, who own the 32-room resort, will stop by to spin a bit of Nevisian and Kittician history.

DVD players, Internet and Wi-Fi access in rooms, a 60-foot lap pool and a fitness center suggest a hotel more contemporary than colonial, although the 18th-century ruins of the Thomas Cottle Church are on site.

"Mount Nevis lives on repeat bookings," Adly Meguid said. "We pay 15% commission and award a free room to every agent who books a room with us. Agents can accumulate these free rooms, use them for themselves or give [them] to clients."

• Montpelier Plantation Inn, built in 1966, was bought two years ago by the Hoffman family, who did a top-to-bottom renovation, leaving only the trademark kapok tree in the center of the main walkway untouched.

Lincoln Hoffman described Montpelier as a "17-room, family-style boutique inn with no plans to expand."

Although the hotel has three restaurants, including one in an old stone windmill that seats 12 for candlelight dinners, Hoffman stressed that "Montpelier is a hotel with restaurants, not restaurants with a hotel."

• Nisbet Plantation Beach Club, set on 30 acres with 38 cottages sweeping down to the sea, is embarking on a $3 million renovation, according to Don and Kathie Johnson, general managers.

The cottage count will be reduced to 34; bathrooms expanded with double Jacuzzi tubs and outdoor garden showers; and high-speed, in-room Internet access installed next fall.

A full gym and spa will be added, and Coconuts restaurant will be extended farther along the beach.

"We sell romance and reconnection at Nisbet in everything from heart-shaped pancakes at breakfast to having no TVs in the rooms and no kids' program," Johnson said. "Life is short. We want Nisbet to exceed guests' expectations of the old Caribbean."

To contact reporter Gay Nagle Myers, send e-mail to [email protected].

• • •

Room key: Hermitage Plantation Inn
Address:
P.O. Box 497, Gingerland, Nevis
Phone: (869) 469-3477
Reservations: (800) 682-4025
Web:www.hermitagenevis.com
Managers: Richard and Maureen Lupinacci
Location: Nestled 810 feet above sea level in south-central Nevis, surrounded by a rain forest, mango trees and tropical gardens with a distant view of the sea (15 minutes away). Charlestown, the capital, is 10 minutes by car and Vance Amory International Airport, 30 minutes.
No. of rooms: 15 rooms and suites with bath in individual island cottages.
Facilities: Plantation hotel centered around the 340-year-old Main House, believed to be the oldest surviving wooden house in the Caribbean. Gardens, a pool, bar and dining verandah, the Water Lily Spa, a library, a tv room in the Main House, tennis, stables, Fanny's Closet Shop boutique and carriage rides with Belgian horses and Victorian carriages. Hermitage Beach Club, 10 minutes away at Pinney's Beach, is open for lunch and dinner.
Rates: From $180 per room, per night, double in hillside rooms to $265 in luxury cottages, through Dec. 14. Includes Planters breakfast and complimentary transfers to its beach club. Packages available.
Commission: 10%
Review: What's not to love? Heirloom canopy beds, antiques, porches with hammocks, afternoon tea, ceiling fans, highland breezes and vervet monkeys scampering among tree branches. The restaurant is a standout as well. It does not get much better than this.

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