Travel Weekly Crossroads' associate editor, Judy Koutsky,
spent the holidays on a chartered cruise along the Pacific coast of
Mexico. The following is Part Five in a series of reports:
Aboard the Ocean Majesty-- New Year's Day. I started the
beginning of the year watching the sun rise over the Pacific while
eating breakfast. If nothing else, I've seen more sunrises and
sunsets on this trip than I've seen in my life. Then, to the
surprise and delight of all the early risers, somebody spotted a
whale.
We were all up and running toward the dock, our breakfasts
quickly forgotten, hoping for a glimpse. Sure enough, not one but
two whales greeted us, their tails slapping against the water. I
had read that from January through March thousands of gray whales
make the long trek from the Bering Strait to the Baja Peninsula to
give birth to their calves, but it's not that common to see them
this far south.
With such a great start to the day -- and the year, to boot -- I
was eager to begin the last leg of the cruise. After docking around
10 a.m., we took the tender ashore for our excursions or, for some,
a relaxing day in the sun. The Coastal Highlights tour, which I
took, allowed visitors to see the vast contrast between the desert
terrain, cacti and all, and the rugged coastline. 
We stopped often for pictures and refreshments in both Cabo San
Lucas and its neighbor, San Jose. We were supposed to get a
demonstration of glass blowing at a nearby glass factory, but it
was closed due to the holiday. In fact, we soon discovered, many
buildings were not open that day. Our tour guide instantly came up
with a backup plan: shopping.
Although many of the bigger centers were closed, the smaller
shops and flea markets were open and ready for us. Many people on
the excursion complained that bartering in Mexico is not as easy as
it used to be. Some tried the old walk-away trick and found that
many of the older Mexican women will let the American tourists just
walk right out the door. They may go down a little, but I found
that, up and down the Pacific coast, the shopkeepers drive a hard
bargain. Also worth noting is that most places accept American
dollars, and clients are more likely to get a better price than
when paying with pesos.
In the afternoon, on this sunny day, many people enjoyed jet
-skiing and snorkeling. The best bet for this activity is to take a
water taxi out to Playa del Amor (Lover's Beach). It is here that
the warm, calm water from the Sea of Cortez meets the rugged surf
of the Pacific Ocean (marlin and sailfish can be seen breaking the
waves here). The water taxi costs about $3 per person; the trip to
this semi-secluded beach is well worth the modest fee. It's
important to remember to tell the driver when you want him to pick
you up, otherwise they won't make the trip back.
After swimming, snorkeling or just lounging on the beach,
visitors should check out the famous El Arco.
The natural rock arch can be seen from cruise ships, but it's
worth it to see the formation up close. Another sight that
shouldn't be missed is El Faro de Cabo Falso (Lighthouse of the
False Cape), located a short distance from El Arco.
Many people come to Cabo for its beaches, and they are rarely
disappointed. For very calm water (best for families with young
children) and snorkeling, Playa Hacienda is a good bet. Playa
Solmar is clean and pretty, but the current is pretty rough, so
it's advisable to stay on the sand. My pick, for the sand and the
view, is Playa del Amor. 
I took advantage of the calm water today to go parasailing. I
had been once before but forgot the calm, almost hypnotic feeling
of floating so far above the ground. The view of the mountains,
beaches, El Arco and the spot where the Pacific Ocean and the Sea
of Cortez meet was awesome. I strongly recommend spending the $25
to experience this aerial panorama. Although parasailing is offered
up and down the coast, I think Cabo offers the best experience for
the money.
Cabo San Lucas and San Jose were the two most developed and posh
resort ports we visited. They are also the two fastest growing
resorts in Mexico. Gabrielle , the guide on the Coastal Highlights
excursion said many wealthy Mexicans and Americans have summer
homes here. Both towns are very clean, with beautiful beaches and a
wide variety of water sports offered, and the towns are more
upscale than Acapulco and Puerto Vallarta. Many restaurants, both
formal and casual, abound, and shopping is at a premium. This area
is for those clients who want a lot of fun in a opulent environment
without having to put forth a lot of effort.
Judy
Goes to Mexico, Part 1: 'Little Boat' Makes for a Cozy Cruise to
Mexico
Judy
Goes to Mexico, Part 2: Acapulco Boasts Restored Infrastructure,
Energy
Judy
Goes to Mexico, Part 3: Traditions Still Alive in Mexico's 'Twin
Cities'
Judy
Goes to Mexico, Part 4: Creatures From the Manzanillo
Lagoons
Judy Goes to Mexico, Part 5: Whale Sightings Start the Year
Right in Baja