Locals from Andalucia are quick to claim
that their part of Spain is more Spanish than most. They have a
point, as the southern region of the country introduced typically
"Spanish" traditions such as bullfighting, flamenco and tapas. But
ironically, Andalucia -- in culture, architecture and gastronomy --
owes much to the Moors, medieval Muslim invaders and immigrants
from North Africa. Andalucia's fusion of Spain and Africa is
evident today in its largest cities: Seville, Cordoba and Granada.
Visitors get a real
feel for Andalucia in its capital, Seville, where Moorish influence
abounds. Narrow streets are lined with orange trees; mantillas
(scarves) and abanicos (fans) decorate walls; and bustling sidewalk
cafes abut centuries-old palaces and churches, many of which
formerly were mosques.
The 13th century
royal palace, the city's touristic highlight, is one of the best
examples of Spain's mudejar, or Moorish-influenced architecture. A
stroll away lies the cathedral, built over a mosque and currently
the largest Gothic building in the world.
Shoppers in the
Campanas district have their pick of stores selling everything from
local crafts, including mantillas and abanicos, to clothes from
Spanish fashion brands such as Zara and Camper.
Enjabonarte, on San
Eloy, is a local favorite, selling fresh soaps and sea salts
infused with olive oil from the region.
Cafe-hopping for
sherry and tapas -- 
two trademark Andalucian foodstuffs -- is a
pastime popular in the whitewashed, narrow streets of Santa
Cruz.
A profusion of
flamenco dancers in the quarter wielding castanets, clapping,
singing and foot-stomping keeps the atmosphere lively.
Foodies follow
their noses to Cordoba, a bite-size version of Seville, for
gastronomic elation. Some of Spain's most authentic restaurants
serve up traditional recipes passed on for generations. Typical
meals make use of farm-raised pork and goat, gazpacho and
cod.
Surrounding the
eighth century historical center, a UNESCO World Heritage Site,
several top restaurants are converted from centuries-old
structures, such the Bodegas Campos, in a 16th century
convent.
One must-see is
Cordoba's cathedral, a bizarre amalgam of Moorish mosque and
baroque Christian church.
As most Spanish
delicacies hail from Andalucia, it might not be a surprise to learn
that 80% of the country's olive oil is produced in Cordoba, home to
a million olive trees.
I stopped at Nunez
De Prado in Baena, a popular exporter, for fine, extra-virgin olive
oil.
History is
preserved at Palacio Del Bailio, an impressive 52-room hotel built
atop Roman ruins, on view through the dining room's tempered-glass
floor.
Considered by some
the most cosmopolitan of the three cities, Granada is arguably also
the most captivating.
Good luck to those
travelers who don't make advance reservations to enter the city's
top attraction, the Alhambra Palace. It's rare that the capacity of
7,000 daily visitors isn't reached.
Those who do pass
the gates experience a city within a city that has survived for
centuries.
The gardens inside
the palace, embellished by running fountains and ponds, are the
oldest in Europe.
Visitors should
spend several hours, before heading up to the Albayzin
neighborhood. There, views of the Alhambra and city center are
commanding.
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