Rich tastes, past on Rhine River: Travel Weekly

Rich tastes, past on Rhine River

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A view of the waterfront in Mainz. St. Martin’s Cathedral is on the left.
A view of the waterfront in Mainz. St. Martin’s Cathedral is on the left.

While Frankfurt is a leading tourist destination in Germany, it is predominantly known for business travel. Fortunately, the city's position in the heart of Germany's Rhineland puts it at an ideal location for day trips up and down the Rhine River. If you're in Frankfurt and looking to get out of the city, here are two destinations that will give you a glimpse of the history and culinary culture along the Rhine, both just a quick train ride away.

Mainz

Thirty minutes by train from the Frankfurt Airport is the city of Mainz, which is the capital of the state of Rhineland-Palatinate. Mainz has held a role in history since it was founded as a military post by the Romans in the late first century B.C. A large percentage of Mainz was destroyed during World War II, and parts have been rebuilt to look as it did before the war, making the city a melange of historical periods.

Begin the day in Mainz at St. Martin's Cathedral, which is right on the city's market square. On Saturdays, the square comes alive with locals as the farmers market sets up shop. Vendors come from all over the region to sell fruits, vegetables, meats, cheeses and local wines. Wind your way through the narrow stall alleys, purchasing snacks as you go. At the Mainz Farmers Market Breakfast, winemakers from the region come to showcase their wines during the warmer months.

If restaurant dining is more your speed, visit Haus des Deutschen Weines, a wine house that serves fresh salads as well as schnitzels and other German dishes alongside regional wines.

In the afternoon, visit the Gutenberg Museum, which pays tribute to Mainz native Johannes Gutenberg, inventor of the movable-type printing press. Upstairs are two of the original 48 Gutenberg Bibles. The two-volume Bible has a total of 1,282 pages and was created with a staff of 20 people.

From here, walk to St. Stephen's Church. The Gothic structure was built in 990 on top of the highest hill in Mainz. The current church was started in 1267 and completed in 1340. After the bombing of Mainz in World War II, St. Stephen's was heavily damaged; as part of its reconstruction, Russian Jewish artist Marc Chagall was commissioned to create nine stained-glass windows for the church. The glowing blue windows depict scenes from the Old Testament, showing the threads of similarities across Christian and Jewish traditions. Chagall, a Jew, wanted to highlight the future of peace and reconciliation between Germany and the Jews.

Stolzenfels Castle above the Rhine in Koblenz, Germany.
Stolzenfels Castle above the Rhine in Koblenz, Germany.

Koblenz

About 90 minutes from Frankfurt, in the heart of Germany's rich wine land, is Koblenz.The first stop here must be to the Ehrenbreitstein Fortress via cable car across the Rhine. The fortress, dating back more than 5,000 years, sits on a hill overlooking the city and gives travelers a sense of place. The museum within showcases Koblenz throughout the centuries.

After taking the cable car back down to the river bank, head toward the monument to William I, which stands where the Rhine and Moselle rivers meet, known as German Corner. The monument was erected to the 19th century German emperor in 1897. Although destroyed during World War II, in the mid-20th century it was rededicated as a sign of German unity.

Continuing past the monument, stroll the banks of the Moselle toward the Old Town. Here, remnants of the old Roman walls can still be seen. This part of the city is also bustling with shops, boutiques and restaurants. There are many courtyard plazas scattered throughout the medieval streets.

For an authentic German lunch, visit Wacht am Rhein along the banks of the Rhine. Decked out in kitschy bric-a-brac, the restaurant is reminiscent of grandma's living room in the German countryside. The menu includes traditional wursts and schnitzels, salads and pastas.

For slightly more understated cuisine, visit Deutscher Kaiser in the Old Town. The decor here is minimalistic and clean, with wide windows that look out onto the Moselle. The heart of the restaurant is its selection of wines, most from Germany or Italy. The menu twists together Mediterranean cuisine with a German flair.

After dinner, meander back out into the Old Town for a digestif at one of the area's many bars.

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