Larger-than-life villains thankfully were in short supply aboard Viking River Cruises' Viking Surkov. The closest we came to encountering misanthropy on a recent Russian river cruise were harrowing tales of Ivan the Terrible, Rasputin and Uncle Joe Stalin told by informative and knowledgeable guides during regularly scheduled history lectures.
History played a large part in the sum and substance of this voyage, aptly titled "The Waterways of the Czars."
The itinerary, which ran 13 days and included 12 nights aboard ship, offered 10 guided excursions and several optional ones to many of the country's museums, castles, churches and historical sites. Among them were the Hermitage and the Peter and Paul Fortress in St. Petersburg, the spectacular Peterhof Palace on the Gulf of Finland, the Armory and Red Square in Moscow and the wooden Church of the Transfiguration that dominates the remote island of Kizhi.
Viking provides guests with headsets, which made it easy to hear the tour guides no matter how large the group or how loud the ambient din.
Days and evenings were also taken up with cultural presentations, such as a concert performed by graduate music students organized by the Russian Folk Orchestra at the Tretyakov Gallery in Moscow; a ballet; a traditional Russian tea service; and interactive lectures on the Romanov czars and the Russian economy, language and arts.
Food for thought, literally, was an evening's entertainment when it came to optional caviar and vodka tastings (at an extra cost of about $130 and $20, respectively).
Viking Surkov 411
The five-deck ship itself, completely refurbished and upgraded for this year's Russian waterways itineraries, has a crew of 114, runs 423 feet from stem to stern, is almost 59 feet across at its widest point and pulls a draft of 10 feet. Under the watchful eye of Capt. Gennadij Ivanov, the Surkov navigates the rivers and lakes at a top speed of nearly 17 mph (14.5 knots), fast enough to get us where we were going without the disturbing engine vibration and racket that often characterizes the cruise experience.
With the upgrade, the Surkov offers 106 outside staterooms, all designated "deluxe," that feature individually controlled air conditioning, hotel-style beds with a feather duvet (a hypoallergenic substitute is available on request), a flat-screen TV with cable and in-house programming, a small refrigerator, a safe, full bathroom facilities (including a separate stall shower) and ample closet space. Most cabins measure 161 square feet, while the top-of-the-line units are 215 square feet.
Incidentally, most cabin categories have large picture windows that open. In addition, sun-blocking curtains not only provide privacy but make sleep easier to come by during the stretch of extended sunlight called the White Nights, or Beliye Nochi, when the summer sun does not set until after 10 p.m. and twilight lasts much longer. The White Nights extend from May through July, with the most intense period lasting from about June 11 to July 2.
The public areas include the Neva dining room, top-of-the-ship sun deck and enclosed Sky Bar, the Panorama Bar at the forward end of Deck 4, a promenade deck, a library (stocked with books and periodicals in English) and a reception and lobby area. Laundry and massage services are available, as is a beauty salon.
High-speed, wireless Internet recently was installed on the Surkov. The service, according to Viking, will be free.
Who's onboard
Most passengers are age 55 and older, split evenly between men and women and primarily from the U.S.
According to Torstein Hagen, founder and chairman of Viking, "Of course, we would rather not exclude anyone from our cruises, but we want to be very clear so as not to trouble or disappoint any guests.
"Most of our shore excursions involve a lot of walking or getting into and out of buses and through castles and other historic structures not built with accessibility in mind," he added. "In Russia, we have five-deck ships, so we have found it convenient for all passengers to have elevators on our refurbished ships there."
If there are any concerns, a medical doctor accompanies each voyage.
Virtually all meals are served onboard. With the exception of a boxed lunch provided by the kitchen and lunch in the touristy Boris Godunov restaurant near Red Square, the all-inclusive program offers 12 breakfasts, 11 lunches and 12 dinners served in the open-seating Neva dining room, which is at the rear end of Deck 3.
The venue, with its wall-to-wall glass panels, features unobstructed views of the passing scene: expanses of open water on the oceanlike Lake Ladoga (the largest freshwater lake in Europe, at 6,800 square miles in surface area); onion-domed churches as if snatched from classical Russian paintings; fancy dachas or vacation homes of the rich and modest retreats of average folk; and thick forests rising from river bank to snow-capped mountains far in the distance.
On the menu
The meals served aboard the Surkov were nicely presented and featured seasonal and local vegetables. The dishes, however, were often bland, and while the kitchen aimed for a Central Europe accent, ultimately the choices offered could claim no country or region as real inspiration.
Breakfast was, perhaps, the most successful meal of the day. Offerings included croissants, breads and rolls, yogurt, sour cream, hot cereal, cold cereals and grains, smoked fish (including salmon), cold cuts, cheeses, bacon, sausages, soft-boiled eggs and an omelette station.
The lunch menu featured a selection of sandwiches and salads, and the dinner menu consisted of hors d'oeuvres, a soup selection (typically French onion, Russian white cabbage or cream of small summer squash with shrimp), a main meat course (examples included coq au vin, fried pork cutlet and beef stew) or a vegetarian selection (risotto, Russian pelmeni dumplings, salmon tart) and dessert (ice cream or baked goods).
One member of the ship's crew observed wistfully, "You should see what the kitchen cooks for itself: hearty peasant food such as thick Russian soups. Ah, if only one could 'go below' and dine with the staff."
The wait staff was attentive and well-meaning, although not quite up to professional standards. Language (many speak only halting English) was a bit of a problem, when diners, for example, wanted to make substitutions.
In general, service aboard the ship was friendly and helpful, from housekeeping to reception. The lecturers both onboard and for the included excursions were excellent.
Coming attractions
While only several Russia itineraries remain open for this season through early October, next year the Waterways of the Czars program aboard the Surkov and sister ship the Viking Kirov (the upgrade of the latter will be completed by 2009) begin May 6 with a St. Petersburg-to-Moscow voyage aboard the Surkov. The last voyage, on the Kirov, leaves Moscow on Oct. 11, 2009.
The rates, which next year start at $3,999 (not including air), are commissionable.
"Travel agents are critically important for the marketing of all Viking cruises and cruise tours," said Hagen, who founded the company in 1997 and has grown its fleet from four ships operating in Russia to 21 vessels operating in Russia, Europe, Ukraine and China. "We have a sales team of 17 outside agents calling on travel sellers across North America. We also have an inside sales staff of 11 and a dedicated groups department of eight to support our travel agent partners."
Viking offers 12% base travel agent commission, 5% air commission, 5% travel protection commission and 12% extended land commission.