In Mexico City, a museum for every mood and mode

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Since the days when Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera first splashed their way onto the world art scene, Mexico City has gained a reputation as a place where artists grow and where museums flourish. Thats more true today than ever, with an ever-increasing number of museums exhibiting everything from ancient artifacts to cutting-edge contemporary art.

And with new galleries popping up in the chic Roma and Condesa districts, this city -- the largest in North America -- has more opportunities for art collectors to expand their private collections, too.

Spoiled for choice

Chapultepec Park, Mexico Citys vast, green lung, is home to some of the capitals best-known museums, such as the National Anthropology Museum, or Museo Nacional de Antropologia.

The museum, one of the worlds largest such anthropological collections, could easily take a few days to fully visit.

In addition to permanent exhibitions documenting the history of Mexico itself, the museum also features a variety of temporary exhibits with broader themes.

For example, through the end of February, visitors can see Medieval Spain and the Arrival From the West, which focuses on the formation of medieval Spain with items from the 10th through the 15th centuries.

Unfortunately for amateur archaeologists, part of the museums permanent Aztec collection is temporarily on exhibit in London and will return in the middle of 2006.

Also in Chapultepec Park is the National History Museum (Museo Nacional de Historia), housed in Chapultepec Castle, which once served as luxurious home to Maximilian, the Hapsburg emperor who had a brief reign in Mexico in the mid-19th century.

Children can enjoy an afternoon at El Papalote, the citys kids museum, which features plenty of hands-on activities for youngsters of all ages.

For a satisfying taste of Mexico Citys rich contemporary art scene, visitors head to the Museo de Arte Moderno, a modern art museum packed with galleries featuring contemporary painting, sculpture, photography and lithography.

Nearby is the Museo Rufino Tamayo, named for the famous Mexican painter who died in 1991, leaving a massive collection of his own work as well as pieces by such Mexican contemporary artists as Jose Clemente Orozco, Diego Rivera and David Alfaro Siquieros.

Also on display are works by foreign artists such as Pablo Picasso and Andy Warhol. The museum is presenting Jesus Rafael Soto: Vision in Movement, featuring works by the Venezuelan painter who used two- and three-dimensional elements, through Jan. 29.

Mexico Citys Centro Historico, the increasingly restored historic center, is also home to several noteworthy museums and galleries.

The Museo Franz Mayer, next to the Alameda Central park, exhibits decorative arts as well as contemporary design and photography. Through Jan. 29, the museum is hosting Centro Historico, a collection of photographs depicting the transformation of the city center from 1920 to 1940.

From Feb. 2 through April 6, the museum will host Import-Export: Change and Exchange, which focuses on British and Mexican design in jewelry, fashion and graphics, through the work of 14 designers from each country.

Housed in a former Mexico City convent is the Laboratorio Arte Alameda, or Alameda Art Laboratory, which through Feb. 19 is showing Dataspace, a multimedia contemporary art exhibit with virtual and interactive installations.

Also nearby is the Image Center, or Centro de la Imagen, which hosts photography exhibits. Now through Feb. 12, visitors can see Diaspora, a collection of work by French photographer Frederic Brenner that documents Jewish life in far-reaching parts of the globe.

On display at the same time is Young Carers by South African photographer Michelle Sank, depicting young people who care for sick parents and siblings.

Private capital

Countless privately owned galleries have sprouted in the trendy districts of Roma and Condesa. Both neighborhoods are good for clients who like to browse or collect the work of Mexicos hottest new artists, such as Gabriel Orozco, who was born in Veracruz in 1962 and is known for his creative use of everyday objects from the urban landscape.

Other noteworthy contemporary artists include Daniela Rossell, born in 1973 in Mexico City, whose book of over-the-top photographs of the citys ultradecadent elite, Ricas y Famosas, or Rich and Famous, caused a stir when it was published in 2002.

Her photographs are available in book form to collectors with limited budgets, and Orozcos original work is available at Kurimnzutto, a gallery in Condesa that represents a number of contemporary artists.

Another hot new gallery is Proyectos Monclova, in Roma, which represents Mexican and foreign artists.

Galeria OMR, also in Roma, exhibits and represents a variety of early and current contemporary artists. The gallery is hosting the works of two artists from the Los Angeles County Museum of Art until Feb. 12.

To contact reporter Mark Chesnut, send e-mail [email protected].

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