The Michelin Guide recently revealed its latest list of top restaurants in California. In short, Californios and Enclos both earned Three Michelin Stars, Kato in Los Angeles was promoted to Two Michelin Stars and nine restaurants earned one Michelin star.
"As one of our legacy destinations in the U.S., California helped set the standard for exceptional dining experiences worth traveling for," said Gwendal Poullennec, International Director of the MICHELIN Guide. "This year is no different as California continues to be a pace setter for the industry based on our Inspectors' brilliant discoveries.
Here are the new Michelin Star restaurants, with Inspector notes from each.
Three Michelin Stars
Californios (San Francisco; Mexican cuisine)
Combining a passion for Mexico’s rich heritage, an electric jolt of imagination and masterful technique, Chef Val M. Cantú has created a truly singular gastronomic destination.
The menu draws upon a dizzying variety of Mexican flavors, utilizing the finest products and subtle international influences to transform familiar dishes into deliciously unique culinary creations.
The humble tortilla displays particular mastery here, as in a pillowy sourdough tortilla with an ethereally crisp mezcal-battered black cod, checkered with huitlacoche and yellow corn cremas, or heirloom white corn tortillas accented with black sesame and poppy seeds, to match smoked quail enrobed in a complex house mole.
Enclos (Sonoma; Contemporary cuisine)
This custom-designed domain of Chef Brian Limoge exudes cozy sophistication and is a respectful retooling of a late 1800s Victorian structure in downtown Sonoma.
This tasting menu marries global flavors, refined technique and exceptional ingredients, including produce sourced from affiliated Stone Edge Farm, all shot through with subtle nods to the chef’s New England roots.
Take, for example, the signature clam chawanmushi which evokes the spirit of chowder. The team shows a masterful hand with grilling, and the complementing sauces surprise and delight, as in luscious hearth-roasted quail adorned with artichokes, preserved rose petals and burnt citrus. The finale will be a memorable seasonally focused composition, perhaps featuring freshly plucked fraises de bois.
Two Michelin Stars
Kato (Los Angeles; Asian cuisine)
Chef Jonathan Yao has found a grand stage in this cool enclave of polished concrete in the Row DTLA. Here, he and his team have worked diligently to hone an inspired tasting menu, drawing deftly from his Taiwanese background and LA upbringing, threading a path between boldness with refinement.
Gently cooked Mt. Lassen trout is bathed in a vibrant, complex fish broth bolstered with fermented Napa cabbage tingling spice, while crisp-skinned Peking-style duck breast is matched with a sesame ball filled with juicy confit and a rich jus flavored with citrusy magao pepper, at once comforting and excitingly original.
Long forgotten are the BYOB days: the list now boasts an impressive wine list, enticing cocktails and exceptional spirit-free creations.
One Michelin Star
Corridor 109 (Los Angeles; Asian Contemporary cuisine)
Good things come in small packages, especially at Corridor 109, an intimate 11-seat counter restaurant in Melrose Hill where reservations are a must.
Chef/owner Brian Baik honed his skills in New York before returning to Los Angeles. Tucked behind a door at their sister concept, Bar 109, Corridor 109 is focused on fish, largely sourced from Japan, with much of it served raw. The tasting menu shows great care and finesse, with balanced dishes displaying a level of restraint.
Dishes to remember include Santa Barbara spiny lobster tartare in a kombu tartlet with a whitefish mousse and miso-marinated sawara cooked over charcoal. End with their only non-seafood item: Australian wagyu served over an oxtail jus and shiso.
KOJIMA (Los Angeles; Japanese cuisine)
KOJIMA is truly a hidden gem, poised on the second story of a Sawtelle strip mall. The homey space seats a handful of diners at a counter wrapped around the open kitchen where Chef Hayato Kojima works wonders.
There is no fixed or printed menu, however the warm staff explains every dish with enthusiasm. The menu changes daily, dictated by sourcing for peak freshness and quality, but could include dishes like fried long-tooth grouper, or gently poached Japanese clam served over springy kudzu starch sōmen. Crispy grilled unagi is a delight, and a final savory course of rice accented with shirasu and dried shiso, served with miso soup and daikon pickles, is a thoroughly satisfying conclusion. Reservations are called for, as is a prompt arrival, since all guests are served together.
Lielle (Los Angeles; Californian cuisine)
Some reservations feel like a victory, and scoring a table at Chef Marcus Jernmark's white-hot Lielle is exactly that.
Everyone is here for a taste of his Californian cuisine, where the concise product-focused tasting menu may be supplemented by the likes of agnolotti del plin with Gruyère cheese custard, black truffles and beurre noisette. Jernmark's cooking is precise and skillful yet far from fussy, as in aged shima aji crudo with cool, grilled sweet peas and cucumber brunoise or California squab grilled over pine and accompanied by a crisp salad dressed with a vinaigrette of miso made from the leftover house-baked bread.
Lucien (La Jolla; Californian cuisine)
Chef Elijah Arizmendi cut his teeth in New York kitchens before returning home to open this sophisticated tasting menu concept on the third story of La Plaza La Jolla.
Whether it's California-raised Iberico pork or locally caught fish, the region's bounty is celebrated on a menu that reflects French and Japanese influences.
A meal could begin with canapes like tempura-fried sweet potato topped with caviar; yellowtail in a crispy nori tube; and a rose meringue with beets and green yogurt, before moving into impressive dishes like crisp-skinned ocean tilefish with petite fennel and pomegranate, or poussin with a chicken mousse and truffle stuffing.
Desserts are creative, as in the cinnamon caramel-braised pineapple roasted over the live-fire hearth for hours.
Miura (Beverly Hills; Sushi cuisine)
Miura ushers in a reinvention and a fresh start for an address long revered as a destination for outstanding sushi. Its second-floor perch set among the pedestrian-only Two Rodeo Drive shopping galleria, is a soothing and serene room with a satin-smooth wood counter.
One's attention is squarely on the personable American-born Chef Derek Wilcox, who has trained extensively in Japan and worked in New York City. His attention to detail and level of refinement is evident throughout the omakase, as he grills snow crab over charcoal, and lightly smokes wild bluefin tuna over rice straw.
The nigiri is the highlight of the impressive multi-course experience, with a preponderance of product sourced from Japan, such as creamy cuttlefish from Kagoshima and needlefish from Miyagi.
Naides (San Francisco; Filipino cuisine)
Named after Chef Patrick Gabon's mother, there's no mistaking this jewel box operation as anything other than a labor of love. Drawing upon the fine dining experience of both Chef Gabon and partner Celine Wuu (who deftly manages the floor), Naides serves an original interpretation of Filipino cuisine in the form of a stylishly modern tasting menu. Pulling together Californian ingredients (including foraged herbs and flowers), traditional flavors and bold creativity, the dishes are as pleasing to look at as they are to eat. To illustrate: fluffy brioche “pandesal” is paired with lip-smacking braised chicken gizzards in a clever take on tangy, savory sisig, while impeccably cooked dry aged duck breast “adobo” is paired with soy jus and horseradish.
Seline (Santa Monica; Californian cuisine)
You might not expect to be served ice cream in the middle of savory courses, but at Chef Dave Beran's Seline, surprises are the hallmark of a deeply personal meal.
His ambitious tasting menu has high-concept underpinnings, meditating on themes like the progression of the seasons. A meal may begin with the likes of a miniature garden of edible succulents in a "soil" of caraway rye crumbs, dusted with a fine cauliflower snow. Black cod infused with wild bay laurel, paired with mussel cream and fennel offers classic sophistication, while lamb loin with burnt strawberry jus and wild greens shows a playful edge, made even better with a house-made brioche brushed with pork fat.
The chef's signature Osetra caviar served atop toasted hazelnuts and a coffee anglaise is pure indulgence.
Troubadour (Healdsburg; French cuisine)
Melissa and Sean McGaughey began their romance working together at Single Thread (as baker and sous-chef, respectively), and here they've wedded their talents to make a singularly charming Healdsburg destination. The lovely little space is a popular sandwich shop and bakery by day (they also run nearby Quail and Condor); at night transforming to offer an exciting tasting menu that highlights Californian ingredients with flair and technical precision.
Classical underpinnings are enlivened with a modern sensibility, seen in a "bouillabaise" of gently cooked rockfish with saffron-yuzu emulsion and a clam croquette, or seared duck breast with malted potato cream and a morel stuffed with chicken mousseline. Naturally, the bread course is a highlight.
Wolfsbane (San Francisco; Contemporary cuisine)
Chef Rupert Blease and wife Carrie, who runs the front of house, make their much-anticipated return to fine dining with this stylish Dogpatch enclave. The indulgent multicourse tasting menu shows no shortage of creative flair, offering up Chef Blease’s distinctive take on contemporary Californian cuisine, cleverly accented
with Nordic, Japanese and French elements. Pristine local products are prepared with precision, enhanced by finely tuned sauces balancing richness and brightness.
As an illustration, sublimely fresh Dungeness crab might be matched with earthy sweet potato and buttery sauce Maltaise, tinted vividly blush-colored with blood orange and beet. Pure flavors and refined textures are a hallmark, making each bite one to remember.
Three new restaurants noted for their inspiring vision
Monte’s (Santa Barbara), Sierra Mar (Big Sur) and Six Test Kitchen (Paso Robles) are highlighted by the Green Star for their inspiring and committed vision for the future of gastronomy. The Green Star recognizes restaurants that have impressed Inspectors through their approach. By shaping a community of innovative establishments driven to pursue progress in the role of restaurants, the Green Star fosters dialogue and collaboration, encouraging them to inspire and evolve together.
Hotels
The restaurants join the Michelin Guide selection of hotels, which features the most unique and exciting places to stay in California and throughout the world.
Each hotel in the selection has been chosen by Michelin Guide experts for its extraordinary style, service and personality — with options for all budgets.
The selection for California features the state’s most spectacular hotels, including SingleThread Inn (Three Michelin Keys) with their modern-classic aesthetic and their top-shelf comforts; Bernadus Lodge & Spa (Two Michelin Keys) an attractive resort getaway tucked into the pines and oaks of Carmel Valley; or the LaFayette Hotel and Club (One Michelin Key) a mid-century icon in San Diego.