A Portuguese egg tart may not be the ideal running fuel, but it was the first thing I ate on a trip to Macau before participating in the annual Macau International Half Marathon. A crisp, buttery crust encased the piping hot, silky, sweet custard, its surface perfectly caramelized. I wanted another but knew I should pace myself. I had a lot of running (and eating) ahead of me.
"Pace yourself" is good advice not only for runners but for anyone visiting Macau for the first time. Macau, an hour from Hong Kong by high-speed ferry, reflects a marriage of European and Chinese cultures. It was the last outpost of Portugal until the land was returned to China in 1999.
In the city and coastline are ruins of churches, old mansions, shrines, fortresses and temples. Fishing is still a mainstay here, but so are casinos.
Eat
To better understand Macau, start with its food. The culinary influences reflect the tastes of the explorers and traders who traveled between Europe and Southeast Asia in the 16th century. After devouring the egg tart at Margaret's Cafe e Nata, tucked away in the Nam Van Lake area, I strolled around the Red Market, a three-story market bustling with vendors selling fish, poultry, pork, produce and dried goods.
Lunchtime is traditionally dim sum time. Our group, hosted by the Macao Government Tourism Office, went to the Hotel Okura for a dim sum lunch, which included pork buns as beautiful as they were delicious, fried banana dumplings, barbecue pork with marinated jellyfish and a double-broiled whelk soup.
Portuguese food is also common here. A must-see is La Paloma, which is inside Pousada de Sao Tiago, a boutique hotel that was originally a fortress built by the Portuguese in the 17th century to defend against pirates. The ancient stone walls give way to a modern dining area and views of the waterfront.
Around the city are also delicious hot pot eateries, sushi and street food that is as much a feast for the eyes as the stomach.
Run
The marathon course stitched together the fragmented geography and culture of Macau into one cohesive experience. We passed several Unesco World Heritage Sites, encircled Sai Van Lake, where dragon boat races take place, and ran across the Sai Van Bridge, which is usually closed to pedestrians. We gazed up at the Macau Tower and smelled incense burning at various temples. We traversed cobblestone streets and saw locals strolling through parks with their songbirds, which were kept in cages.
Explore
The city is easily explored on foot, and taxis are abundant and affordable. The government is working on a light rail system that will connect the islands to the peninsula. (The first part should be completed by 2019.) That will make it easier for those staying at the resort properties on Taipa to quickly access the historical sites, markets and restaurants on the peninsula.
With so many hidden gems, you could easily spend two full days touring the city. Here are a few highlights:
- Handover Gifts Museum: This museum houses the 56 gifts given to Macau by the provinces and regions of China. From elaborate bronze sculptures to tapestries and intricate carvings, eachreflects the different artistic styles and resources within China.
- Historic Center of Macau: This is where Eastern and Western cultures merged to form a beautiful fabric of historical sites, piazzas and streetscapes. The area was designated as a World Heritage Site in 2005. There are more than 20 iconic landmarks, such as the Ruins of St. Paul's, A-Ma Temple, the Moorish Barracks, the Mandarin's House, St. Lawrence's Church, the Dom Pedro Theatre and the Na Tcha Temple.
- St. Lazarus District: This area northeast of the Historic Center is off the beaten path and characterized by cobblestone streets, murals and colorful Portuguese architecture. The neighborhood is home to the St. Lazarus Church. A few artsy boutiques and coffee shops are hidden down the side streets.
Last bite
My trip began with an egg tart and it ended with one. But this time, the tart came from Lord Stow's Bakery, Margaret's rival. Locals tell the story how Lord Stow's founder, Andrew, and Margaret were once married and owned the bakery together. They divorced, and Margaret opened her own shop. The two cafes are friendly rivals, and their egg tart recipes are similarly delicious. After tasting both, our group found subtle differences: one crust was more buttery (Lord Stow's), the other more flaky (Margaret's). Some thought Lord Stow's custard filling was a tad sweeter. Margaret's might have been a bit smoother. Others thought it could be that Stow's was more caramelized on top.
Which is better? You'll have to go and taste them yourself.