Operators not ready to commit

Although U.S. tour operators have not yet signed on with packages and programs to Montserrat, some admit to being curious, and others have adopted a wait-and-see attitude, but its early yet.

We will keep an eye on it, but right now we have no plans to launch programs, said Mark Benson of Gogo Worldwide Vacations.

Continental Vacations has programs to nearby Antigua that support Continentals nonstop flights from the New York area.

A joint program or tie-in with Winair, which begins service to Montserrat on July 11, seems logical, but a Continental Vacations spokesman would say only that we look at all possible markets, vacation possibilities and opportunities to expand our offerings. We have nothing to announce at this time regarding Montserrat.

Greg Thorne, president of InterIsland Tours, cautioned that just because an airline starts service does not necessarily mean that passengers will come.

At this moment, Montserrat is not on our radar screen. Im not sure what major hotels are in place, and I would like to think that they have a strong marketing plan in place to coincide with the new flights, he said.

At Classic Custom Vacations, Mike Flory, vice president of product development, said his firm would consider adding Montserrat as long as we are confident that the entire experience meets our quality standards in air service, ground handling, accommodations, dining, activities and safety. It all comes down to the customer experience. -- G.N.M.

Its green, its mountainous and two-thirds of it has been buried under volcanic ash since July 18, 1995, when the Soufriere Hills Volcano spewed red-hot flows of lava and mud down its southern flanks.

Yet, Montserrat, a pear-shaped island the size of Manhattan, 25 miles southwest of Antigua in the upper chain of the Leeward Islands, is on the move, 10 years after its lid blew off. And its the volcano that holds the key to Montserrats rise from the ashes.

The island hosted close to 8,000 stayover visitors last year. Montserrat Tourist Board officials, who now are actively courting the overnight and long-stay markets, optimistically project a visitor increase of up to 10% each year, once marketing and promotion efforts take off.

Daytrippers, called excursionists by Montserrats bean counters, numbered 5,000 in 2004, most of them arriving by ferry on organized tours from Antigua. That figure, too, could jump to 8,000 a year.

Will all the hopes for good times ahead be realized?

Ernestine Cassell says they will. Shes Montserrats director of tourism and a driving force to kick-start tourism as a way to fill the void of the last 10 years.

Move On Montserrat

Weve got a grand promotion called Move On Montserrat and a three-year master plan to get us on the map again in a positive way, she said.

The biggest boost will take place on July 11, when the $18.5 million Geralds Airport opens on Montserrats northeast coast to welcome Winairs four daily, 20-minute, 19-seater scheduled flights from nearby Antigua -- the first such flights in 10 years.

As demand increases, direct service from other islands will be added. The original W. H. Bramble Airport is long since gone, buried under layers of volcanic debris in the southern two-thirds of the island, known as the Exclusion Zone.

To date, access to Montserrat post-95 (every event on this island is described as either pre-95 or post-95) has been limited to 90-minute ferry rides from Antigua or expensive helicopter sightseeing fly-overs of the island.

The opening of Geralds Airport sends a huge message that Montserrat stands ready to welcome visitors, show off our product and take our place on the radar screen of Caribbean destinations, Cassell said.

This new air bridge will allow us to introduce Montserrat to a huge segment of travelers who might not have considered us as a vacation destination.

The air-conditioned terminal was dedicated in April by Britains Princess Anne, who cut the ribbon, toured the island, hosted an official reception in the courtyard of the 18-room Tropical Mansions Suites in the hamlet of Sweeneys and caused a royal flurry such as had not been seen by islanders in more than a decade.

The momentum that began with the royal visit will continue with the opening of the airport and scheduled air service, Cassell said. We will seize the momentum to move forward with our master plan and become a model for other islands. We are starting with a clean slate.

Montserrat is the way the Caribbean ought to be, the way the Caribbean used to be. Thats the message well send to our visitors, she said.

National Tourism Strategy and Plan

The three-year strategy initiative, officially called the National Tourism Strategy and Plan, seeks to rejuvenate and reposition Montserrats tourism sector. It hinges on the governments initiatives for the redevelopment and re-energizing of Montserrat, according to John A. Osborne, chief minister and minister of tourism.

The main pillars of the plan focus on intense marketing to promote Montserrats nature adventures and scenery -- often compared with the lushness of Ireland -- as well as its ecotourism offerings, sports marketing, villa vacations, black-sand beaches and, of course, the active volcano, certainly the prime sightseeing attraction.

Our volcano is our opportunity. Were sitting on a gold mine, and we need to take advantage of this, Cassell said.

Ishwar Persad, the tourist boards recently appointed marketing manager, said that programs have been launched to boost awareness among islanders of the importance of tourism.

These Host and Community Awareness programs, which carry the slogan of Know it. Love it. Show it, provide and train our people with information on Montserrats history, geography, culture, government and places of interest, Persad said.

We want to promote standards of excellence among people directly or indirectly involved in Montserrat s tourism industry.

Jadine Glitzenhirn, the on-island coordinator of the awareness programs as well as a tourism consultant and a guide offering customized island tours, said the success of the training programs is critical because our island has become a melting pot of cultures from an influx of workers across the Caribbean basin.

Glitzenhirn, a resident who ran the gift shop at the former airport, left the island for a few years in the late 90s and returned in 2000.

As president of Montserrats Tour and Taxi Association, which she formed, Glitzenhirn symbolizes the resilience of the people on her island.

We had to adapt after the volcano. We had to learn that with the little we have left, we move forward, she said.

Port Little Bay, Montserrat, where the ferry from Antigua docks and the site of what will be the islands new capital and commercial center. TW photo by Gay Nagle MyersMoving forward means creating a new capital city in place of Plymouth, whose ghostly remains resemble a modern-day Pompeii. Port Little Bay, up the coast in the Safe Zone where the ferry from Antigua now docks, is beginning to take on the semblance of an organized settlement.

The dirt road from the ferry dock, lined with vendors selling tamarind juice and postcards of the volcano, leads to Brades, the new center of commerce and government on Montserrat.

A large cultural center and an arts and crafts market are under construction near Brades, and all over the Safe Zone sprout new villages carrying names like Dick Hill, Jack Boy Hill, David Hill and Lookout.

A work in progress

Signs of progress are evident. A second Catholic school has been built, stores selling computer parts have opened, the National Trust has carved out hiking trails in the north and music groups perform at CB, Montserrats only nightclub.

Still, Montserrat has no movie theater or stoplights, one air-conditioned restaurant and many simple take-away food stands. Its rutted roads kick up layers of dust in the dry season, and steep twists and turns present real challenges.

There are several car-rental outlets, but most day visitors opt for a tour bus and guide.

If Montserrats promotional programs prove as successful as tourism interests here hope, it wont be long before the roads are top-notch and, who knows, there might even be a movie theater to go to.

Information please: Montserrat

  • The Emerald Isle of the Caribbean is known for lush vegetation, historical links to Ireland and the resilience of its people in the face of disaster.

  • Montserrat is a British overseas territory, headed by a chief minister with an appointed cabinet of ministers and a legislature elected by popular vote.

  • English is the official language, often spoken with an Irish brogue, a heritage left by the early settlers.

  • The population of 4,700 is less than half of the pre-95 figures (before the first of two eruptions in the 1990s).

  • The departure tax is $17; the national currency is the Eastern Caribbean dollar, but U.S. greenbacks are widely accepted at a set rate of E.C. $2.70 = U.S. $1. Very few businesses accept credit  cards, so cash is a must.

  • Tourist information is available at www.visitmontserrat.com
  • To contact reporter Gay Nagle Myers, send e-mail to [email protected].

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