On a crisp October afternoon in La Crosse, Wis., Majestic America Line's steamboat the American Queen towered over a brilliant autumn canopy of burnt-orange poplar, crimson maple and golden ginkgo trees. A crowd of well-wishers, some in festive Victorian-era costume, were gathered along the Riverside Park levee as the vessel prepared to sail for the last scheduled time.
Upon closer inspection, the once-pristine stern-wheeler looked a bit less "spruce" than in its heyday, with scuff marks on its feathered black stacks, murky stains in the fading, midnight-blue hull paint and moss coating much of the iconic red paddle wheel.
With just one short blast of its whistle, the boat maneuvered away from the dock and churned up the muddy river. The American Queen was five days into its final northbound Upper Mississippi cruise, a nostalgic Fall Colors journey between St. Louis and Red River, Wis., that would also visit Alton, Ill.; Hannibal, Mo.; and Dubuque, Iowa.
The riverboat was scheduled to undertake three more voyages, ending up in New Orleans for a seven-night finale on Nov. 8 in tandem with its smaller, equally famous fleet mate, the circa-1927 Delta Queen.
Both vessels will then be laid up to face an uncertain future. The Delta Queen's congressional exemption to Safety of Life at Sea regulations, which prohibit vessels with wooden superstructures from carrying overnight passengers, expires this month. But unlike the Delta Queen, the all-steel American Queen is still young, having first sailed in 1995.
Up river, a rusty railway trestle gradually swung open as the twin stacks puffed away. With La Crosse vanishing in its wake, the American Queen paddled onward, the late afternoon sun casting a golden sheen and long shadows on the Mississippi.
For a short while, life onboard continued much as it always had. On aft Deck Five at the Calliope Bar, Rosalinda deLeon played a feisty set of familiar Americana, including "Take Me Out to the Ballgame" and "Waiting for the Robert E. Lee." Discovery Guide Clara Christensen hosted a small crowd in the Chart Room Lounge for a narrative about the upcoming river scenery as a flock of migrating herons soared across the bow.
That evening, passengers would enjoy the open shelter of the Front Porch, swaying in one of the suspended benches or conversing in a rocking chair as the high-beam searchlights illuminated the banks ahead.
A scaled-down Captain's Champagne Dinner would be offered in two seatings, at 5:15 p.m. and 8 p.m., in the opulent J.M. White Dining Room, followed by crooner/pianist Phil Westbrook's "Songs of Romance" at the adjoining Captain's Bar.
In the soaring Grand Saloon, a duo would perform "Songs From the Silver Screen" before the Bobby Durham Quartet continued with dance music. The animated film "WALL-E" was screened in the theater.
Would-be night owls wound up in the Engine Room Bar, with a view of the churning paddle wheel, as Jackie Bankston sang country and pop favorites.
Unlike high-seas cruise ships, there is no casino or disco onboard the American Queen.
The boat basically shuts down a little before midnight, and that's the way people like it. Most of the casually dressed passengers ranged between ages 60 and 70 and hailed from across the U.S.
Published double occupancy per diems were high, equivalent to luxury cruise line fares, from $300 for a category K inside upper/lower to more than $600 for a category AA suite. Even so, 409 of its 422 available berths were full.
Paddling toward oblivion?
Despite the high occupancy, Majestic America Line's deferred maintenance and cost-cutting was evident. Areas of the outer decks exhibited chipped paint, portions of carpeting were stained or worn, some seating was frayed or cracked, and much of the woodwork was in need of varnish.
Menus were whittled down. There were no more peanuts or savory snacks in the bars. The cappuccino machine in the Front Porch had been broken for weeks, and the iced tea spigot ran dry midcruise.
One of two treadmills in the small fitness center was out of order. The once-touted H20 toiletries in the staterooms had dwindled down to just shampoo, soap and, if one was lucky, lotion.
The 152-member crew kept a collective stiff upper lip. Considering that most will be out of a job on Nov. 15, their work ethic and friendly, helpful demeanor was extraordinary.
Many were holding out for a new company to step in and rescue the American Queen.
Atlanta-based dining captain Christopher Williams was confident a new operator would come around but has resigned himself to being out of work for the holidays. "I just know it's going to happen," he said. "But in January, if there is no news about the boat, I'll return to the land-based dining sector."
Newest queen of steam
In June 1995, the future of river cruising seemed bright when the Delta Queen Steamboat Co. introduced its $65 million American Queen in a televised christening by national radio broadcaster Paul Harvey and his wife.
At 3,707 tons and boasting six decks, it was constructed by the MacDermott Shipyard at Amelia, La. The largest river-based stern-wheeler ever built, the 418-by-89.5-foot vessel has an 8.5-foot draft, and its stacks loom a spectacular 109.5 feet above the waterline.
The American Queen was even fitted with a steam engine taken from a retired, 1930-built dredger. In addition to the 30-foot-wide paddle wheel, there are modern Z-drives that assist in maneuvering.
In its 13-year career, the American Queen navigated its share of obstacles. While on its maiden voyage to Pittsburgh in June 1995, it struck a sand bar in the Ohio River near Troy, Ind., and remained fixed for several days before finally getting towed off.
In October 2001, following the terrorist attacks of 9/11, Delta Queen's parent company, American Classic Voyages, declared bankruptcy.
The American Queen was laid up until January 2003, when the Delta Queen Steamboat Co. was purchased by new owners, Delaware North.
This reprieve lasted until September 2005, when Hurricane Katrina struck New Orleans, resulting in the cancellation of all sailings so the vessel could house oil industry workers in Beaumont, Texas, and New Orleans.
American Queen remained laid up until the Delta Queen Steamboat Co. was sold to Ambassador's International and merged with the American West Steamboat Co. to form Seattle-based Majestic America Line. After a refit, the American Queen resumed sailing for MAL in the spring of 2007.