Brussels: City of buildings, beer and chocolate

Freelance writer Casey Kittrell recently returned from a trip to Brussels. Here is his report:

ost travelers know that Brussels is home to world-class restaurants, but even foodies like myself need to find something to do between meals.

Architecture may not be as sexy as chocolate or beer, but those with a taste for aesthetics -- as well as fine food and drink -- will find extra enjoyment in this often overlooked European capital.

The city's commitment to great architecture was cemented in 1695 when, after Louis XIV of France sacked the Grand Place (Brussels' main square), residents decided to rebuild their beautiful buildings exactly as they had been before the French invasion.

The Grand Place is indeed "the place" to begin an architectural tour of Brussels. The soaring belfry of the Gothic Hotel de Ville can be seen from all over the city center.

Less imposing but more intriguing to me are the Baroque guild houses, some of which provide architectural clues about their former tenants. (The pediment of the boatmen's guild, for instance, resembles the back deck of a ship.)

You could easily spend two hours strolling around the square, admiring the grand buildings and people-watching. (If you want to do this, get there after 11 a.m., when the delivery trucks are no longer allowed in the square.)

An easy walk from the Grand Place is the Gallerie St. Hubert, Europe's oldest mall, completed in 1847. It's home to luxurious shops selling beautiful things, but anyone can enjoy a walk along the marble corridors of this Neorennaissance arcade.

The Grand Place is a feast for the eyes, offering up the best of Flemish architecture from medieval times to the 19th century. Beautiful as the Grand Place and Gallerie St. Hubert may be, Brussels' best buildings are the art nouveau wonders of the late 19th and early 20th centuries.

Using then-new materials such as glass and steel (rather than stone), architects like Belgian master Victor Horta designed light, airy structures that still dazzle visitors today.

One of Horta's best works now houses the Museum of Comic Strip Art, open Tuesdays to Sundays, with an entrance fee of about $7.30.

Comic strips are important to Belgians, whose homegrown characters such as Tintin and the Smurfs are known around the world.

The museum pays tribute to them and others, although anyone who doesn't read French or Dutch will have a hard time following the stories in the comic-strip panels on display. (Think twice before taking children there.)

Still, anyone can admire Horta's building, which almost seems alive. The tall windows on the facade are garnished with wrought-iron flourishes that could be eyelashes, and the spacious interior seems to breathe.

Even if you're not interested in the comic strips, you still can get a sense of the building's interior without paying admission.

The lobby, crowned with a glass cupola, houses a small exhibit about Horta and his work on this building.

(If you want to know more about Horta, you can visit his former home on the outskirts of Brussels.)

The museum's gift shop, chock-full of Tintin souvenirs, is also accessible from the lobby.

Another good museum, also now in a restored art nouveau building, is the Musical Instruments Museum -- MIM, open Tuesdays to Sundays. Admission is about $4.50.

On a sunny day (something of a rarity in Belgium), you'll need sunglasses to admire the glass facade of this former department store.

But all that glass means the interior is extraordinarily bright, showing off instruments like the first saxophones, invented by Belgian Adolphe Sax.

The museum also has a nice rooftop cafe, but you'll have to pay admission to the museum to sit there.

Fittingly, one of the city's best hotels is an art nouveau masterpiece.

The Hotel Metropole was built at the end of the 19th century and features a gorgeous lobby (including a birdcage elevator) and a popular streetside cafe.

The rooms are disappointingly modern and plain, but the hotel is centrally located and within easy walking distance of the Grand Place, Gallerie St. Hubert and the Museum of Comic Strip Art.

Brussels' beautiful buildings certainly held my attention, but I couldn't help but notice the dozens of bars and chocolate shops interspersed among the great architecture. I wanted to bring something nice home to my wife, but I resisted the temptation to plunge in and fill up the suitcase with familiar Belgian brands like Chimay, Stella Artois and Godiva.

The best beers and chocolates in Brussels aren't made by large, international firms, but by traditional artisans working in small spaces.

Cantillon, for instance, is a family-run brewery still making lambic from natural yeasts. It is open Mondays to Saturdays. Admission is about $3.90.

You can find their beer in bars and cafes around town, but I loved wandering through the brewery, which is deliberately full of dust and cobwebs so the natural yeasts are allowed to work their magic. (Sterilizing the place would destroy the yeasts.)

The self-guided tour of Cantillon includes several free samples of their wonderfully sour beer.

And, because this is Brussels, I couldn't leave without a bit of chocolate.

Like Cantillon, Manon's chocolates are available in a few shops in Brussels, but if you really want to understand the art of the chocolatier, you need to visit the workplace.

Manon is a one-man operation, however, so you'll need to make an appointment to visit this award-winning chef.

(Be aware: Manon doesn't work on Sundays, and he's sometimes too busy -- especially in December and around Easter -- to accommodate guests.)

In an hour filled with tastings, Manon explained (in relatively good English) where great chocolate comes from and how he fashions it into distinctive pralines.

He begins with ingredients that include cherries and raspberries from his own garden. Then he whips, spreads, carves them up and finally reassembles them by hand, producing edible mouthfuls of art.

A visit to Manon is available only by appointment. Phone: (011) 32-2 217-6409. For reservations at the Hotel Metropole, call (011) 32-2 214-2525; fax: (011) 32-2 218-0220; or visit www.metropolehotel.com.

For more about Brussels, contact the Belgian Tourist Office in New York at (212) 758-8130 or visit www.visitbelgium.com.

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