Switzerland's Beau-Rivage Palace scores big on longevity, elegance

Given Switzerland's reputation for scenery, the Beau-Rivage Palace in Lausanne is burdened to be even more spectacular than its awe-inspiring surroundings, and in this, the hotel succeeds.

The hotel's vast lobby makes the most of the property's waterfront location, with floor-to-ceiling windows offering unobstructed views of Lake Geneva and the shores beyond.

Loitering in the lobby on a recent stay, I was drawn to a sculpture that holds pride of place in the center of a sitting room between the lobby and the terrace. Circular in shape, the work commemorates the hotel's 150th birthday, which is being celebrated into 2008.

Over the next few days, I spotted more than one other guest stooping to spy the lake through the circle, and it is this sense of playfulness set amid Old World elegance that gives the hotel much of its charm.

Of course, this ambience has likely undergone evolution since the hotel's grand opening in 1861.

From the start, elegant society was drawn to the property, already known for its 18th century frescos and ornate ballrooms.

So many guests arrived in the first several years that an annex called Le Chalet was constructed in 1864, followed by the art nouveau Palace wing in 1908.

A sense of history prevails in the hotel's public rooms, where history-making events, such as the signing of an armistice between Italy and Turkey in 1912 and the Treaty of Lausanne in 1923, have taken place.

Hints of days past also linger in the atrium lobby. There, guests who crane their necks can detect that each floor becomes slightly shallower the higher one looks. In the hotel's early days, staff were housed on upper floors, which accounts for the lower ceilings and less ornate columns and woodwork.

Because tastes change, however, those top rooms are among the most popular today, thanks to their generous size and, more importantly, their eye-popping lake views.

Wining and dining

There are so many places to dine at Beau-Rivage that my family began sampling them even before settling into our rooms. Our first stop was the Cafe Beau-Rivage, a brasserie where we were introduced to local specialties such as perch served with potatoes, steak tartare and foie gras.

We also sampled Aigle Chapelle, a light, dry, white wine commissioned by the hotel as its official jubilee wine. A sip of another vintage was no problem: The hotel's wine cellar holds 75,000 bottles.

We dressed for dinner that night at La Rotonde, a Michelin-starred restaurant that features scallop carpaccio, sea urchin fritters and lobster with caviar.

For a change of pace, we went Japanese at Miyako Lausanne, which offers indoor and outdoor seating. Although it was October, the sun was warm enough for us to enjoy an alfresco lunch of sushi, tempura and salads.

We managed to squeeze in one final, highly caloric meal at L'Accademia, an Italian restaurant at the adjacent Hotel Angleterre & Residence, the four-star sister property of the Beau-Rivage. There, we dined on risotto, ravioli and grilled eggplant with mozzarella.

We also managed to log a few hours at the Bar Anglais, just off the Beau-Rivage's main lobby, for pre- and post-dinner drinks, cigars and live music of the piano jazz variety.

Adding to all the indulgence, the hotel offers a range of treatments at the 15,000-square-foot Cinq Mondes Spa.

I started with a 20-minute "regenerating body wrap," which turned out not to be a wrap as Americans understand it but instead a light massage with all-natural plant oils. The spa does not use any mineral oils, silicone, animal-based products or artificial coloring in its treatments.

The real treat came a few days later, when I submitted to a nearly two-hour Royal Ritual from Siam treatment that included soaking in a Japanese bath with rose petals, a scrub with papaya-infused balm and a Balinese massage. The treatments were priced at about $65 and $240, respectively.

I also took time to relax in the swimming pools -- there are two, one indoors and one outdoors -- the Turkish bath and sauna.

Off-property diversions

Our visit was timed to coincide with the ninth annual Grand Prix Beau-Rivage Palace catamaran regatta, which takes place every fall directly in front of the hotel. Tents were set up on the shore, where visitors could dine, drink, watch the proceedings and cheer on their favorites.

We enjoyed even closer views from the steamboat Le Montreux, which plied the waters near the race.

Also in town that weekend was the Circus Knie, a seventh-generation family circus. The show began with a bountiful brunch alfresco, complete with chocolate croissants, mini-quiches and cafe au lait.

The entertainment included performing zebras, elephants and horses; jugglers; trapeze artists; and even a duo dancing on roller skates on a tiny platform.

This being Europe, the costumes were skimpy, and the patter from the clowns was in French and German.

The circus visits Lausanne every fall, and the big top was within walking distance of the hotel.

There is plenty else to do in Lausanne, including visiting the Cathedrale Notre-Dame at the Place de la Cathedrale or window shopping along the picturesque streets of Old Town.

Chocolate shops, seemingly on every block, vie for attention, but the Durig Chocolatier on Avenue d'Ouchy particularly caught our eye. The shop sells artisan chocolates guaranteed to tempt the most stalwart dieter.

The English-speaking proprietor and his family are happy to help visitors choose among the wide selection.

For more on the Beau-Rivage Palace, check out www.brp.ch. For more about Lausanne, visit www.myswitzerland.com.

To contact reporter Felicity Long, send e-mail to [email protected].