My
first trip to Paraguay, seven years ago, was exceedingly brief.
Visiting Iguazu Falls in Brazil, I briefly crossed the Friendship
Bridge from the Brazilian city of Foz do Iguacu to Paraguay's
Ciudad del Este, famous in South America for its shopping
opportunities. I was in Paraguay for just three hours, but I was
struck by the number of people I met who made sure I was
comfortable and asked me to return someday.
I knew I eventually
would, but the nudge that finally prompted me to return was reading
"The News from Paraguay," a historical novel by Lily Tuck that
details the 19th century relationship between Irishwoman Eliza
Lynch and Paraguayan President Francisco Solano Lopez.
Together, they
ruled the country into ruin, rebuilding capital city Asuncion into
a New World version of Napoleon's Paris before waging war on
Brazil, Argentina and Uruguay. It all ended badly for Paraguay, but
according to Liz Cramer, Paraguay's minister of tourism, what
beauty the couple managed to create amid all the chaos still
exists.
Every building the
couple erected in Asuncion is intact and part of the tourist
circuit in the city, which serves at the gateway to Iguazu, the
Jesuit missions and the rest of the country's historical and
natural attractions.
What did I know of
Paraguay? Apart from the escapades of Lynch and Solano Lopez, I
knew very little, and that was part of the beauty of
visiting.
Paraguay is an
unspoiled, friendly country that can be a surprise-filled add-on to
trips to its better-known South American neighbors. While there are
no direct flights from the U.S. to Paraguay, TAM and LAN offer
connections from Sao Paulo, Buenos Aires and Santiago,
Chile.
I stayed in a few
hotels while in Asuncion, including the modern Sheraton Asuncion
Hotel in the upscale Villa Morra district, which is redolent of Los
Angeles or Miami.
The view from my
room at the Sheraton made me realize why Emerald City is a nickname
for Asuncion.
From natural jungle
cover to the palms and other trees lining the streets, it's one of
the world's most verdant capitals.
There's also a
Crowne Plaza within walking distance of the political and cultural
center of the city. I didn't stay there, opting instead to room at
the Hotel Las Margaritas, named for its owner, Margarita, whose
name means "daisy."
The flower serves
as the hotel's kitschy, decorative theme, appearing on everything
from towels to wrought-iron railings to dining room
chairs.
Another kitsch
hotel in Asuncion is the German-themed Hotel Westfalenhaus, which
is in a quiet, residential section of the city. Visitors can also
stay in the secluded, 493-acre Casino Yacht & Golf Club on the
outskirts of the city, where a river beach, pools and a golf course
await.
Tourism ministry
staff showed me 
Asuncion's museums and the
historical quarter, much still dating from Solano Lopez's
time.
There were colonial
buildings such as the Casa de Independencia, the Casa Viola, the
Victorian-era cathedral and the Cabildo, or old city hall, which
houses a museum.
We also took a look
at the impressive Presidential Palace, a mix of British and French
Imperial styles.
I found one of the
most interesting city center sites to be the National Pantheon of
Heroes, designed to look like a miniature copy of Les Invalides in
Paris. Solano Lopez's remains lie within, one final example of his
obsession with Napoleon.
The city center was
easily covered on foot, and it was only to see the Museo del Barro,
which is close to the Sheraton, that we needed a car. Evanhy de
Gallegos, the city's new and first female mayor said, "Asuncion is
very pretty. It's small, but it is friendly and cozy." An apt
description.
It was hot when I
visited at the end of January, which is summertime in the Southern
Hemisphere. Taking locals' advice, I headed outside of the city,
where the weather tends to be cooler.
Less than an hour
from the city lies the private Eco Reserva Mbatovi, a mix of
jungle-covered mountains and plains. It's a bit Indiana Jones, with
wooden walkways through jungle canopies. Visitors can also rappel
down a cliff overlooking a small waterfall.
Also about an hour
from the city was the relaxing Casa del Monte, owned by
Italian-born Carlo Bruni, who came to Paraguay 20 years ago and
decided to stay.
The resort is
slightly rustic, but all cabin accommodations have air conditioning
and private bathrooms.
The cliffside
dining area is at its most impressive during sunset as musicians
play traditional instruments such as the guarani harp. Resort
activities include horseback riding, hiking, visiting a small zoo
and relaxing at the pool or spa.
From Casa del
Monte, I headed out to tour the Jesuit missions that are scattered
across the southern portion of Paraguay. The Jesuit order of
priests built about 30 missions to educate the Guarani Indians.
Mission ruins can be found in Brazil and Argentina, as well.
However, in
contrast to the Brazilian and Argentine missions, few tourists
visit the ruins in Paraguay. I had the Trinidad y Jesus and Santa
Maria missions virtually to myself. Nobody popped into view to
spoil my photographs. My local guide was patient and attentive and
spoke English.
Missionary ruins
aren't the only thing Brazil, Paraguay and Argentina share.
Another, of course, is Iguazu Falls, scene of my first Paraguay
foray.
Few tourists visit
the Paraguayan portion of the region. There, I checked out the
Paraguayan side of the Itaipu Dam, one of the world's largest
hydroelectric projects. The dam is shared by Brazil and
Paraguay.
Much tourism and
culture, including a zoo, a nature reserve and a museum dedicated
to the indigenous Guarani culture, lie within a few miles of the
dam.
I also returned to
Ciudad del Este, which is celebrating the 50th anniversary of its
founding in 2007. I visited a friend that I had made seven years
prior, and I felt just as welcome as before.
Returning to
Asuncion, I wiled away my last day wandering the city center and
met again with Cramer at the tourism ministry. For now, she said,
few North Americans visit Paraguay, and she knows it's a hard
market to tap.
"Paraguay is an
emerging destination that has great potential," Cramer
said.
She added that in
2006, tourism promotion, based on its economic impact, "became a
priority in government policy."
Drawing on the
U.S., Europe and South America markets, Paraguayan officials hope
to attract 500,000 international tourists within the next four
years, said Cramer.
To
contact the reporter who wrote this article, send e-mail to [email protected].