Barely a mile off the windward coast of Dominica, three galloping Zodiacs packed with guests circled the Sea Cloud Spirit. The sea was calm, belying blustery, rainbow-spiked skies, and cameras were busy. Climbing the gangway to reboard the ship, a guest from the Washington area was elated.
"This cruise just got 1,000% better," Susan gushed. "And it was already pretty great."
Unique elements such as a Zodiac "photo safari," where guests can capture images of the majestic windjammer with its sails unfurled, are what makes a cruise on the Sea Cloud Spirit catnip for sailing enthusiasts. Compared with most modern cruise vessels, the attractions are not stage shows or a casino, nor hot tubs or aerobic sessions. Instead, clients with a keen interest in the traditions of seamanship are ideal passengers for this vessel.
Launched in 2021, this elegant, three-masted schooner is the third in a line of storied sailing ships. The original Sea Cloud was built in 1931 -- a spare-no-expense private yacht for heiress Marjorie Merriweather Post. After an unusual career, in 1992 the Sea Cloud was converted into a 64-passenger cruise ship by German investors, and in 2001 the 94-passenger Sea Cloud II joined the fleet.
A deckhand climbs the rigging on the Sea Cloud Spirit. Photo Credit: David Swanson
Laced with miles of rigging, the Sea Cloud Spirit's 28 sails are hoisted by hand -- manpower that requires a crew of 19 deckhands and cadets to climb high on the masts. The routine takes almost an hour to complete, a process we gawked at from loungers and Balinese daybeds on the expansive top deck.
As the sails fill with wind, the engines are shut off and the Sea Cloud Spirit lunges exuberantly through the waves, heeling a few degrees, weaving an undulating path to the next port on the horizon.
Although many cruisers with the inclination and resources to sail on the Sea Cloud Spirit are older, the 136-passenger ship is not ideal for those who aren't steady on their feet. Many doorways on the ship require stepping over a threshold, and the rope on the Lido Deck must be navigated. On an eight-night sail through the Caribbean in December, each day the sails were up -- four in all -- the ship's elevator was closed.
"It's not a traditional cruise ship," said Kevin Smith, Sea Cloud's vice president of sales in North America. "You have to be somewhat agile, so we're selling more of an experience."
The ship's Junior Suites measure 248 square feet and offer ample storage space. Photo Credit: David Swanson
Cabins onboard the Spirit
Cabins are larger and more plush onboard the Sea Cloud Spirit than on most windjammers. Trimmed with polished wood cabinetry and quality fittings, the accommodations are a testament to an era of handmade craftsmanship. Entry-level Superior cabins are found on the lowest deck and range in layout and size, starting at 172 square feet. These oceanview units have two porthole windows and the shower stalls are quite spacious. There are also a pair of Superior Single cabins on this deck, each measuring 140 square feet.
Throughout, minifridge and Krups coffee makers are standard, along with L'Occitane toiletries. There is a flat-screen TV, but no live channels are sourced, only movies on demand. North American guests should be aware that all electrical outlets require European plugs. Deluxe cabins are slightly larger and offer similar features.
More appealing for some will be the seven light-filled Deluxe Lido cabins, which are found just below the bridge on the Lido Deck. While these are slightly smaller, starting at 161 square feet, the tall window opens so that guests can step out onto the (public) deck area.
Junior Suites, on the middle Verandah Deck, are unusual in several ways. They have tall (rather than wide) windows and are squarer than most cruise cabins and thus feature a wide balcony, accessed by stepping over a bulwark. I measured the Junior Suite at 248 square feet -- I believe this is uniform and larger than ship specs indicate -- with the balcony a generous 65 square feet. Most of these have a walk-in wardrobe (a few are built into the wall on either side of the TV), and there is ample storage space, though I found most of the many shelves to be oddly cramped. Junior Suites have a full-size tub and shower.
There is no pool onboard, but for its size, the Sea Cloud Spirit offers a surprisingly good spa, with a Finnish sauna and steam bath. The petite, air-conditioned fitness room, located right behind the bridge, has floor-to-ceiling windows on three sides, making workouts with the cardio equipment and weights a pleasure. There is a beautiful lounge, although the Caribbean's weather mostly lured guests to the top deck loungers.
A sushi and salad buffet onboard the Sea Cloud Spirit. Photo Credit: David Swanson
Dining onboard the Spirit
The Sea Cloud Spirit has two restaurants. Dinners are served at a single seating, and the indoor venue on the Verandah Deck is just large enough to handle the entire ship's capacity at once; breakfast is also served there. On the Lido Deck aft, there is a covered outdoor bistro and bar that is used for a daily buffet lunch and most dinners. When the guest count is below 100, as it was on my cruise, only one of these is opened for dinner to maintain better ambience, hotel manager Elias Stamatopoulos said.
Because Sea Cloud's clientele has been primarily German, a European menu has dominated. On the December cruise, the lunch buffet featured lots of cold salads and a small salad bar, an action station for items like pasta or curry and a roast meat such as veal loin or suckling pig; an outstanding selection of cheeses was always available.
A big hit for all was a beautiful beach barbecue replete with grilled lobster and banana splits and accompanied by a lilting steel pan band set up on remote Chatham Bay on Union Island in the Grenadines, a rare setting for a cruise ship.
A gorgeous tomahawk rib-eye was offered at the Sunday brunch, and a fresh tuna was brought onboard and carved for sashimi and sushi one evening. The three-course menu served at dinner was generally satisfying, with such fare as rack of lamb, grilled wahoo and a lentil stew.
The view from the top deck of the ship. Photo Credit: David Swanson
For cruisers accustomed to multiple restaurant options, the cuisine may feel limited. Smith acknowledged the culinary program is a work in progress and the offering will soon lean more toward an American palate. Guest chefs are scheduled for certain departures.
The included wines are European, with a solid selection from France, Germany and Italy; premium wines are also offered starting at about $60 (shipboard currency is in euros). The Lido Bar features a selection of cocktails included in the U.S. fare. Menus -- and announcements -- are in German and English, and the cheerful crew is made up of more than a dozen nationalities, with all fluent in English. Although the atmosphere is mostly casual, German guests definitely dressed up for indoor dinners.
Onboard entertainment included several lectures in the lounge (in German and English), and there was a DJ who handled music during and after meals on the Lido Deck. The bridge is open for anyone interested in the nautical details. On one evening, a keyboard and bass duo was brought onboard and played until departure.
Anchoring at the small port of Les Saintes in the Guadeloupe archipelago, I couldn't help but notice that when a luxury ship pulled up nearby quite a few of its passengers were out on balconies, admiring the handsome profile the Sea Cloud Spirit cuts. This is, indeed, a showy vessel, and for those seeking the energy of a living, working sailing ship, the Sea Cloud Spirit delivers.
Crew members take in the sails on the ship. Photo Credit: David Swanson
Commissions with Sea Cloud
During Wave season, starting rates for the Sea Cloud Spirit range from $600 to $700 per person, per day for Superior cabins, including all drinks, gratuities and port taxes. WiFi and shore excursions are additional.
Because this German brand has not been marketed in North America, the U.S. office is charged with building awareness, focused on the Sea Cloud Spirit, with a goal of sourcing 40% of guests from the U.S.
Travel advisors will earn a 10% commission on the product, or 12% for those who've previously sold Sea Cloud. Smith said advisors can ultimately expect to make between 3% and 5% more commission selling Sea Cloud than they do selling its peers. "My goal is to have everyone in North America earning 17%," Smith added.