Travel Weekly associate editor Stephanie Kang sailed aboard
Holland America Line's Nieuw Amsterdam from Xingang, China, to Hong
Kong. Her report follows:
ABOARD THE NIEUW AMSTERDAM -- I met my fellow cruise passengers
for the first time not at the pier but at the North Pass of the
Great Wall of China, having driven there from Beijing. I now know
why the wall is a must-see and is considered to be one of the seven
wonders of the world. It is so big you can see it from the moon,
after all.
But in addition to being awed by the architecture, I was struck
by the number of tourists. The fall is China's busiest tourist
season, and this is the No. 1 attraction. I had to push through
crowds to get up to the wall.
At least 500 of the travelers visiting the site were passengers
on Holland America Line-Westours' Grand Orient and South Pacific
voyage on the Nieuw Amsterdam, the same voyage I would join later
that evening. Despite the fact the average age of passengers on
board the Nieuw Amsterdam was about 70, my first impression of
these cruise passengers, most from the U.S. and Canada, was that
they were sturdy, walking up the wall's steep steps with ease.
From the Great Wall, we drove about four hours to Xingang, where
the Nieuw Amsterdam was docked awaiting our arrival. I boarded the
1,214-passenger ship on the 18th day of its 62-day voyage. The
voyage, which began Sept. 24 in Vancouver, British Columbia, ended
Nov. 25 in Los Angeles. Of the passengers on board, some 489 were
booked for the entire cruise.
I was on the ship for six days, cruising the Yellow Sea to
Shanghai and on to Hong Kong. My Category E cabin was spacious
enough for two, with two twin beds, two full-size closets, dressers
and a bathroom with a stall shower, as well as a porthole with an
incredible view of the ocean. I would have been comfortable in the
room for 62 days. But I wondered if I would have felt that way if I
had had a roommate. A trick I learned from passengers taking the
entire cruise was to take a separate room, if possible, for storage
space as well as living space.
The ship's staff is made up of Dutch officers, Filipino deck and
bar staff and Indonesian wait staff. All spoke perfect English and
were more than accommodating. Several of the passengers I talked to
said they keep coming back to Holland America Line because of its
impeccable service and friendly staff, factors made even more
important given the length of the voyage and the amount of time the
passengers and crew spend together. Passengers also said they
appreciate Holland America's "tipping not required" policy, saying
they prefer tipping to be a personal choice.
The Nieuw Amsterdam is the line's oldest ship, and its smallest.
It features two swimming pools, a hot tub, two tennis courts, a
movie theater, a lounge area with a stage for evening shows and
daytime lectures, a health spa, a casino, a library, a card room,
duty-free shops and three self-service laundry facilities.
I was particularly impressed with the health spa, which includes
two saunas, four bikes, two rowing machines, three Stairmasters,
weights and four Nautilus machines. Guests also can take a brisk
walk around the upper promenade deck for exercise. Five times
around equals a mile.
One of the main differences between a one- or two-week cruise
and a grand cruise is that there are more lecturers and
entertainers on each segment of the trip. The lecturers on our
segment were informative. Before our stops in Shanghai and Hong
Kong, a guest lecturer gave us a synopsis of the people, culture
and politics as well as advice on where to go for the best shopping
and tourist attractions. A magician on our trip also was
particularly entertaining.
As we traveled along the muddy Yangtze River and into the
Huangpu River to our stop in the Shanghai Harbour, we got a taste
for the real China away from the tourist crowds.
Shanghai gave us a taste for a big Chinese city. Known to the
Chinese as "the Land of Plenty," it is the youngest city and is
home to some 13 million. During our first night in Shanghai, we
were treated to a performance by the Shanghai Acrobatic Team. The
acrobat-show shore excursion was so popular with passengers it sold
out. The acrobats performed some amazing feats, including leaping
through the air and balancing trays lined with filled champagne
glasses.
Unlike Hong Kong, in Shanghai, the majority of the locals don't
speak English, which made getting around difficult. But on our
second day in Shanghai, several of us ventured off on our own. We
took a cab to the Old City, also known as China Town. The
buildings, which are supported by bamboo beams, are straight,
narrow, tall and colorful.
The Old City is a busy place with a lot of people who are there
to do their weekly shopping. The most interesting of the shops sold
tiger paws and antelope antlers -- apparently used in soups brewed
for whatever ails you. There is an old tea house in the center of
the Old City, which has become a popular place for tourists to
dine. The Bund is another hot spot for tourists. The 100-year-old
walkway that overlooks the Huangpu River bank is a great place to
watch the sunset.
Back aboard the Nieuw Amsterdam, we strolled into the Crow's
Nest, a lounge on the Sun Deck to get a final view of Shanghai as
we sailed away for two days cruising the South China Sea. During
our days at sea, passengers either opted for activities such as
shuffleboard, card games and arts and crafts, or my preferred
activity: relaxation.
Hong Kong was my disembarkation point and the setting for a
post-cruise visit. I couldn't leave, after all, without hitting
some of its shopping districts. I was overwhelmed at Stanley
Market, which spans several streets, and where you can buy anything
from souvenirs to jeans that you can have hemmed for you right on
the spot.
***
Itineraries: In 1998, the ship will be in the
Orient from September to May 1999, doing 14- to 17-day Explorer
Cruise.
Reservations: (800) 426-0327.