Travel Weekly associate editor Lesley Krautheim and her mother
sailed on the maiden voyage of the Legacy, Windjammer Barefoot
Cruises' newest ship. Her report follows:
ABOARD THE LEGACY -- After receiving a baptism of champagne,
Legacy's 11 sails were raised and the ship began its first voyage
from Puerto Rico as the seventh member of Windjammer Barefoot
Cruises' fleet.
Built in 1959 in Le Havre, France, the former France II served
as a meteorological research and exploration vessel for the French
government.
The ship was acquired by Windjammer in 1989, and the company
stripped the vessel down to its hull and converted it into a
four-masted tall ship.
The multimillion-dollar trans-formation has resulted in a
carefully designed vessel, detailed with hand-carved South American
wood motifs, custom interiors and a variety of cabin
accommodations. Brass railings adorn the wide stairways and the
ship's original portholes.
Leading us into the azure Caribbean waters, on an itinerary that
included several U.S. and British Virgin Islands, was a
custom-carved figurehead of Capt. Mike Burke, Windjammer Barefoot
Cruises' founder, complete with ship's wheel in one hand, a beer in
the other.
The design is appropriate to the line's philosophy of
informality and a "wind in your hair" sailing experience.
This philosophy carries through in other ways, some charming,
others annoying.
For instance, although the cabins on the ship can be locked from
the inside, there are no keys to the cabin doors, so they cannot be
locked when you're out of the cabin. (There is a safe on board for
passengers who would like to check any valuables, however.)
All 61 cabins on the Legacy do have private bathrooms with
showers and individual temperature controls.
The only other part of the ship that is air conditioned is the
dining room, which was actually frigid at times.
The cabins are bright and simply decorated with wooden
wardrobes, full-length mirrors and framed nautical prints. A good
number of cabins have bunk beds; some have double beds; others have
lower twin beds, and some have sofa beds.
Some of the cabins are tight, but the bathrooms are a
surprisingly decent size.
Burke's Berth is the most luxurious cabin on board and has a
platform double bed, entertainment center, bar and picture
windows.
The housekeeping crew was most attentive to any special requests
and spruced up the cabin during turndown service.
Several passengers complained of engine noise in their cabins
early in the trip. (Legacy has three engines and shuts down all but
one when the ship transfers to sail power.)
But as the nights passed and we all got into the rhythm of the
ship, the noise didn't seem to be a nuisance anymore.
Open deck areas were immaculate and smooth, making the
"barefoot" aspect of the voyage easy to enjoy.
Even though we had a full ship, there was still plenty of room
to spread out in large, cushioned deck chairs and enjoy the
views.
A small lounge area toward the ship's bow held a selection of
books and games as well as a must-see album of "before and after"
photos documenting the rebuilding of the vessel. But the only time
I noticed the room being utilized to the fullest was during a rain
squall.
The lounge also has the only television and VCR on board, except
for one in Burke's Berth.
The center of passenger action on the ship was on the top
deck.
As well as being the location of the ship's large wooden bar, it
also was where complimentary sunset rum swizzlers and hors
d'oeuvres were served, local bands performed and hermit crabs
raced.
Most important, this was where passengers gathered every morning
for the captain's "storytime," a daily briefing of the day's
activities, a history of that day's port of call and jovial
interaction with the crew. A written schedule is also posted for
late risers.
Upon invitation, interested passengers joined Capt. Mike
Anderson on the bridge for an informative lesson on the ship's
navigation systems.
Additional nautical classes involved knot-tying and a sailing
lesson. But sometimes we enjoyed just sitting back and relaxing in
the nets strung across the bow.
Meals were served in a family-style setting in the dining room,
which is decorated with exotic wood detailing, copper trim and
large windows.
Spacious, round tables seated about 10 passengers; service
varied nightly between buffet-style and at table.
Breakfast, lunch and two dinner seatings always included plenty
of fresh fruits and vegetables, and special dietary restrictions
were cheerfully accommodated.
Dinners consisted of soup, salad and traditional and
Caribbean-influenced entrees of beef, pork, chicken and
seafood.
Dinner on our last night aboard consisted of soup, caesar salad
prepared by our chef in the center of the dining room and a
delicious surf-and-turf entree.
A flaming cherries jubilee was ceremoniously prepared afterward
on the top deck for all passengers (the louder the cheers, the more
rum was added).
On other nights, simple desserts were sometimes served in the
deck area immediately outside the dining room.
Al fresco dining events included a beach picnic and a barbecue
dinner on the poop deck.
Passengers on our sailing ranged in age from early 20s to
seniors. Many passengers were loyal Windjammer customers eager to
sail the line's newest addition.
There were also two young children on board our cruise, and
assigned crew members kept them well occupied.
Legacy is the only ship in the fleet to offer the line's new
Junior Jammers Kids Club, a fully chaperoned program of activities
for children age 6 and up. The program is available this year
through August.
Activities and shore excursions were designed so passengers
could get as involved as they liked. The trip could be just as
enjoyable if the only companion was a good paperback.
My 60-year-old mom was right in the middle of the action. In
fact, in St. John, we almost missed the shuttle back to the ship
because she wouldn't stop snorkeling.
Most of the sailing on Legacy is done overnight, with days in
port. Shore excursions usually start around 9:30 a.m. and end
around 5 p.m.
Launch boats to shore accommodate about 20 passengers and run
frequently.
The ports visited by Legacy were small and allowed easy access
inland.
We landed at Vieques, Puerto Rico, at night to kayak in the bay.
The bay water "glows" when disturbed due to the presence of
microscopic dinoflagellates, so jumping in and splashing about
becomes an illuminating experience.
If passengers don't want to kayak, boat rides also are
available.
Legacy made two stops on Virgin Gorda, in Spanish Town and
Leverick Bay.
Our island tour in open-air buses left from Spanish Town and
included stops at key mountaintop locations for photo
opportunities.
A one-hour visit to the Baths, a premier snorkeling location
surrounded by huge boulders and caves, provided a welcome break
from the heat.
Renting a car, parasailing and diving are other options.
At Leverick Bay, visitors can shop at boutiques and purchase
some famous Pussers rum.
Jost Van Dyke also is a multiple port stop. Our day was spent on
the beach at White Bay snorkeling, sunbathing and partaking in a
beach picnic prepared on the ship and shuttled to shore.
Beach-goers also enjoyed the optional beach olympic games. In
the evening, the ship sailed closer to town so passengers could go
ashore to enjoy a lobster dinner at a local restaurant and party
under the stars at several open-air clubs.
The most impressive views on our voyage were in the early
morning in the Sir Francis Drake Channel.
Lush islands rose up on both sides of the ship, and this was
where we spotted the Flying Cloud, another Windjammer vessel.
Our final port of Cruz Bay on St. John offered the most shopping
opportunities for those going through spending withdrawal.
Unique shops, quaint restaurants, an island tour and snorkeling
off internationally acclaimed beaches made for a full but fitting
day's itinerary.
Night-time activities on the ship included live music and a
costume party. These activities generally wound down around
midnight when the crew turned its attention to the sea, unfurled
the sails and embarked for the next port of call.
Midnight might sound early to some, but after full days of sun
and fun, we found it to be perfect timing.